Thanks, found one for 6.99
David, you couldn’t take a picture of back sans seats could you. I’d like to show our soon to be member but I’ve got a car seat in one of mine and the other is in dry storage until I can sort the intercooler in a couple of weeks.Pepper pots with summer tyres on (pressures at 35 psi all round), double dose of Millers diesel ecomax in the tank to start a long-term fuel system clean, winter grime banished inside and oit and rear seats & false floor removed (ie. “van mode” selected!) - all ready for my 400 mile round trip next weekend whereby I’m borrowing the car from my brother-in-law to go collect some parts from my parents’ garage that they’ll have left out for me and say then on to say goodbye to my BMW as it begins a new chapter of its life.
On this trip, 95% motorway or dual carriageway A road, I’m hoping to crack or at least get very close to 60mpg at a 70mph cruise.
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As an aside, this is the first time I’ve removed the rear seats completely - I’m simply astonished by how much space there is in the back with van mode! After all the reading about it on these pages I shouldn’t have been, but there really was much more than I was expecting even so!
Here you are, folks...However I think @timmus did a thread on the rear seats that has the pic you’re after?
Thanks bothHere you are, folks...
Amongst its many virtues, the A2's rear cabin space is hugely flexible. The A2 was available with two rear seating arrangements: The 4-seater version of the A2 only has two rear seats, but they can be removed individually, meaning the car's either a 2-seater, a 3-seater or a 4-seater. In...www.a2oc.net
Great write up. Obscenely expensive diesel.Today was the day of my mammoth road trip - up at 5, away by half past and off into the sunrise driving the length of the A35 from Honiton to Dorchester and up to Salisbury, a truly lovely drive with a complete lack of traffic.
Through the twisty parts I reflected on what the PTW gearbox has done to the car’s character: Sixth is an overdrive top gear, a subtle difference from a “normal” top as the engine sounds happier in fifth at any speed below 65-70 on anything more than a slight incline. 75mph on the flat is the natural happy place for this car, at which speed the DIS reads 50mpg. Fifth is ideal for pressing on through twisty A roads, fourth for B roads at 40-60mph, whilst 3rd is great for round town at 25-40mph.
I got to my parents’ I’m Berkshire and had a couple of hours, so I cracked on and changed the oil & filter as I’d noticed it was looking very black after only 4,000 miles - and the Mann filter I bought cheap off eBay arrived yesterday. Happy days - the 36mm socket I bought to undo the rear axle hub nuts on my VW Beetle when I first started driving is just the job for undoing the oil filter top! Even better, 17 year old me had good taste as it was an Elora socket, I wouldn’t have ever heard of Elora before at that time and haven’t used the thing since then, so this happy coincidence that it’s just the job now 23 years later!
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I thought I may need to remove the under tray, but with the car on the ramps and hence the sump and its contents being tipped back towards the rear, I found there was no need as the tray has a handy little cutout to get the 19mm socket and ratchet on no bother - clever Audi!
Anyway this is what I found - in summary it’s a good job I changed the oil I think:
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Yep - That’s metal swarf on the magnetic end of the Gold plug that was installed at the last oil change - Not sure if that’s just legacy filings being picked up by the new sump plug with its built-in magnet or what.
At this stage the new dipstick was deployed - such a good idea to build up a stock of known weak point parts now while they’re still available!
A few issues:
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Can you see it?
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Weirdly, the alternator is rock solidly mounted and appears to work fine....
Also, removing the pressed card engine cover revealed:
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No foam jacket, so that’s one order for @CreweAudi
Also I noticed three of the T25 bolts holding the under tray on are missing (@Clackers do you have any spare?) and I managed to drop the lower engine cover bolt into the engine bay, never to be seen again! Luckily it doesn’t seem to effect the cover being securely bolted on with just the two.
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Finally, I got my dad to hold the boot lid while I swapped out the tired, original boot struts with the 25 quid pair of Stabilus replacements - a nice easy 10 minute job that was deeply satisfying, especially as the improvement is dramatic and the boot lid slows right down when reaching the top of its travel just like the originals.
I ran out of time to do a diesel purge under the bonnet, so instead on the way back I ran the tank near-dry by driving for 30 miles after the DIS range reached 0 miles(!) - then tipped the 5 litres of Liqui Moly diesel purge into the tank, then drove the car for another 60 miles using the full range of revs - I then filled the tank to the brim using the burp toggle - this was the result:
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So there you have it, conclusive proof that the tank takes a good deal more than 42 litres and there is a healthy reserve left when DIS says otherwise. I will treat the range arriving at 0 as a suggestion I should fuel up, rather than when the low fuel warning first comes on in future.
To finish off, I dropped a double dose of the Milllers additive into the tank and arrived back home just in time to kiss my boys good night. A big day indeed!
Yeah agree, normally I use the Texaco or Tesco near me as it’s a good 10p/litre cheaper, even with a shot of Millers to upgrade the additives. On this occasion, beggars can’t be choosers when you’re paranoid the car is about to run dry!Great write up. Obscenely expensive diesel.
You read my mind!David, while you will get a couple of figures from that method, according to Google Maps, Honiton to Reigate is only in the region of 150 miles. The margin for error is too significant to get an accurate representation. You'd do better to go all the way there and back, this would automatically halve the error margin. You should also fill up at the same side of the same pump upon return if possible. However you're still only looking at not much over half a tank.
Too late for this particular experiment, but ideally on both before- and after- fill-ups you'd vent the tank with the little button in the filler neck for 5-10 seconds at each click-off of the pump; after the first couple of clicks hold the nozzle at the top of the neck, and continue until the fuel (not foam) comes up to the top of the neck. That way you are minimising the possible difference between what's considered 'full' at each fill-up. For a short mileage in an economical car this difference could be a considerable fraction of the apparent amount consumed.
If I remember right, the average consumption on the DIS is over something like the last rolling 400 or 500 miles. As well as resetting the trip mileage at each fill-up, you should also zero the average consumption by holding the button on the underside of the stalk while viewing it (you can also do similar for the average speed and total journey time).
Should you get the chance of the Grimsby run again, you should be able to get there and back on the same tankful from completely full. Resetting the DIS before and filling up completely again on return will give you the most accurate comparison between what the DIS says and the actual MPG figure.
Sparkly! Very good