Information Door lock microswitch repair

Fantastic. Good find, Spike! I've thrown out numerous door locks over the last few years. Next time I'll give this a go, as the locks are ~£75 a pop.

Cheers,

Tom
 
As always Spike a great find and at a great time as vonnie has a drivers door switch thats failed. mikee
 
Had rear door switch not working, seems to be same switch. Since it's easy to open i cleaned it with small piece of sandpaper inserted between contacts, then pressing on spring and removing sandpaper. Few times both sides with fine sandpaper and but it back together. Maybe piece of cloth would be better option with brake cleaner, maybe next time...




 
In case you can't or don't want to repair rear microswitch you can use it from Seat/Skoda/VW.

Part number is 7L0839015D (rear left) and 7L0839016D (rear right). New costs from 30 EUR.
Can't confirm nothing about front microswitch.

I wanted OEM so bought used from Golf 2012 for 10 EUR.

What you should keep from old microswitch is handle wire because it is longer than A2. But you can change it from old one easily.

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Just noted the company that did the youtube guide also sell a microswitch - http://shop.bmacvags.com/products/vw-audi-door-module-microswitch

Can anyone confirm they are suitable for the A2

Cheers Spike
These are quite expensive for a switch, I have used these


There are loads of sellers on Aliexpress for this part.

Note that they are left and right handed

Simon
 
Morning all,

Thinking another thread revival is in order…

The cooler months are pretty much here and many of us with unbeknown failing solder joints within the door modules will start to observe the features of these now-poor joints or dirty microswitches as the joints get worse when in prolonged colder ambient temperatures. I’ve recently had this very issue with Project OEM which is causing me grief when the other driver here complains about the rear doors not unlocking or the fuel flap doesn’t open upon request. Clearly my fault after being fine since handing the vehicle over some 10 months ago after switching to Project EUD.

Luckily for me I have a full set of spare door lock modules but thought I’d save them and repair the existing modules as it easy enough to reflow the cracked joints and clean up the microswitches if they’re of course grubby.

The hardest part back to door lock module bliss by having rear doors unlocking or the fuel flap opening is of course disassembly of the door modules, it can be a daunting task if you’ve not tackled it before but easy enough to attempt once shown how to do it.

First up though, the steps to access the door lock modules are covered elsewhere on the Clubs pages so won’t cover that here.

Therefore this is why I’ve resurrecting this 9 year old thread as it has all the answers regarding a light refurbishment of you door lock modules. The YouTube clip in Post #1 was a great find by Graham @spike all those years ago and I’ve been using it since joining the Club. One of my first issues in my first A2 back in 2015 was the fuel flap not opening on the button. After following the advice from the YouTuber I was all sorted and learnt some new skills along the way.

Really hope this revival helps some frustrated members out there like it has me over the years covering 8x A2s, only had to do this on 2 of them though but about to start the third. Unfortunately this time round, for me it’s both rears and the drivers door that require attention on Project OEM. I have already tested continuity from pin to pin at the an and B pillars connectors along with the door looms themselves. It’s definitely the modules that are the issue.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Thanks Tom for the updated guide. My drivers door switch (for the second time since a second hand replacement part was fitted) and rear off side door don't turn on the interior lights, activate the fuel filler cap switch. I'm going to try and give the repair a go myself.
 
Are the microswitch's the same as in front right and rear right (I know they are handed)?
 
I am probably going to have to strip and repair a door lock.
I noticed recently that my NSF door doesn't activate the interior light or dash display with the exterior handle, but the interior handle works fine.
 
My front passenger door has an intermittent "won't desafe" so that's a job I'm not looking forward to. The repair, soldering etc is fine, but, I'm a tad apprehensive about getting the door card off.
Mac.
 
I'd be the other way round Mac - doorcards are easy from my point of view, but I can't solder for my life :) I'm assuming you know where & what the fasteners are by now and it's more an issue of fingers, but drop me a PM if I can help with any info.
 
Just replaced drivers door lock on Mr Grey that I had replaced the microswitch on, went nice and easy (sometimes I do find the door cards very stubborn indeed thou) about an hour. Be interested in seeing how well the ebay Audi A4 B7 ones last should I get one faulty other than microswitch!
 
I'd be the other way round Mac - doorcards are easy from my point of view, but I can't solder for my life :) I'm assuming you know where & what the fasteners are by now and it's more an issue of fingers, but drop me a PM if I can help with any info.
I can do my Rover 800 door cards blindfold I think. I will make sure I read up on A2 ones before I go in. Doubt my stash of spare Rover clips and fasteners will fit the Audi!!!
 
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