EML light start flashing

kiklop123

kiklop123

Member
Hello all,
Today we had heavy thunderstorm. Soon after it stops, i start my car (1,4 petrol) and strange noise was comming out of the engine. It looks like one or more cylinders arent working (misfire?). The car is accelerating very slow, and the EML light is flashing. Normally EML light just went on and it stay like that, but have never seen it flashing.
What do you think? is it just because the hard rain, and something got wet (like electric cables leading to the spark).
 
Hi its very possible that the rain has got to the coils packs or leads (depending on age of your car) the most likely cause is the bonnet vents being blocked causing the water to get to the top of the engine. If you remove the bonnet and look on the underside you will see two rubber "duck bill" looking things about 45mm diameter -- they pull off and my money is they are full of old leaves and crud. Clean them and the water will run through into the ducting points in the engine bay.
 
kiklop123 said:
Hello all,
Today we had heavy thunderstorm. Soon after it stops, i start my car (1,4 petrol) and strange noise was comming out of the engine. It looks like one or more cylinders arent working (misfire?). The car is accelerating very slow, and the EML light is flashing. Normally EML light just went on and it stay like that, but have never seen it flashing.
What do you think? is it just because the hard rain, and something got wet (like electric cables leading to the spark).
Click to expand...
Hi, EML has 2 modes, even though none of the good. First if the EML is steady, that issue needs to be checked, usually car can be driven a bit, but limp mode might appear, than max speed will be like 30mph to prevent further damage.
Second if the EML is flashing, something serious has happened and car has to be stopped right away or engine damage can be permanent. Not great news unfortunately but better not to drive the car until the issue is solved.
If you got obd 2 do a Check, you'll know more or check battery first, water can leak there if drain channel are clogged and check spark plugs and leads. Heavy rain shouldn't cause too much damage, unless you drive in high water. As above mentioned, check engine drain holes, on mine they stuck almost close a lot, and look for water around spark plugs, if so clean all up before removing them, after that oil change might be necessary. If no water in engine bay, get an obd 2 and check the codes. Good luck
 
Last edited:
hi,
i thought i know my car well. Following a2sumo advice, i realized that have never seen the "dark side" of the bonnet before.:confused:
I pulled the duck bill rubbers off, and they looked clean. Thanks for the advice and to learn something new.
As well there is no water in engine bay or spark plugs and leads. It looks dry. I put some WD40 on connections and that black box, from where the four cables for sparkplugs start. No changes. Can someone tell me what is the name of that black box? I assume here might be the problem, as OBD scan gaves me following results...

VIN: WAUZZZ8ZZ1N010106 Mileage: 183740km-114170miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 036-906-034-APE.lbl
Part No: 036 906 034 Q
Component: MARELLI 4LV 3415
Coding: 00071

1 Fault Found:
17621 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
P1213 - 35-00 - Short to Plus
Readiness: 1110 0101
 
Will start with the fuse for injectors,
wiring looks fine,
regarding injectors i just sprayed the connections with WD40.
is there any way i can do Ohm test myselfe?
I have this basic ?voltmeter instrument? (i dont know how you call it) but not the one with the "round pliars" sort of thing.
 
Found the answer on how to test the injector resistance.

How to Ensure Fuel Injectors Are Receiving the Correct Voltage | YourMechanic Advice

Faulty fuel injectors affects fuel economy and can cause a misfire. Make sure your fuel injector receives enough power to work properly.
www.yourmechanic.com www.yourmechanic.com
Will do a test today.

Checked the fuse and it looks fine. I was checking the fuse no.45 - injectors for cylinders.

If it turns out, that one of the injectors is faulty, is this something i can replace mysefe?
 
kiklop123 said:
hi,
i thought i know my car well. Following a2sumo advice, i realized that have never seen the "dark side" of the bonnet before.:confused:
I pulled the duck bill rubbers off, and they looked clean. Thanks for the advice and to learn something new.
As well there is no water in engine bay or spark plugs and leads. It looks dry. I put some WD40 on connections and that black box, from where the four cables for sparkplugs start. No changes. Can someone tell me what is the name of that black box? I assume here might be the problem, as OBD scan gaves me following results...

VIN: WAUZZZ8ZZ1N010106 Mileage: 183740km-114170miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 036-906-034-APE.lbl
Part No: 036 906 034 Q
Component: MARELLI 4LV 3415
Coding: 00071

1 Fault Found:
17621 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
P1213 - 35-00 - Short to Plus
Readiness: 1110 0101
Click to expand...
All cars have 2 eml modes, most people just don't know this, if no water in engine bay and around battery in the back under the fake floor, that means the issue is inside the engine. Check fuses of course, you might find the issue. If not,you might need to visit a good mechanic to see what's the issue, as lot can be as mentioned in ross-tech link above.
 
When checking fuses, do not rely on a visual check. You MUST use the meter as they can look OK but are blown or faulty.
 
kiklop123 said:
Found the answer on how to test the injector resistance.

How to Ensure Fuel Injectors Are Receiving the Correct Voltage | YourMechanic Advice

Faulty fuel injectors affects fuel economy and can cause a misfire. Make sure your fuel injector receives enough power to work properly.
www.yourmechanic.com www.yourmechanic.com
Will do a test today.

Checked the fuse and it looks fine. I was checking the fuse no.45 - injectors for cylinders.

If it turns out, that one of the injectors is faulty, is this something i can replace mysefe?
Click to expand...
Yes, changing the injector isn't too difficult,...... just take some basic safety precautions...eg, No smoking around petrol lol.......
I'm sure there maybe a member with a spare injector if not ebay or a local scrap yard maybe a source......but if you're happy to buy new Eurocarparts etc etc.
Remove the fuel rail, but firstly you can release the pressure in the rail by removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine (it will run for a sec or two then stop) remove electrical connectors to the injectors, then unclip the faulty injector by sliding the spring fixing clip off, pull the injector off the rail, there will be some fuel in the rail so try to avoid getting it all over you, check your new/replacement injector is the same part no and physical size also check the rubber "O" rings at either end of it, refit the new injector to the rail, a little oil or grease on the "O" rings helps here and also on the other injectors where they fit into the manifold, refit the rail, check all connections both fuel and electrical, refit the fuel pump fuse, clear fault codes, restart the car and carry out a road test to ensure no more faults and management light.
 
OK, i managed to test the injectors and got following results.
When checking for the right voltage on connectors, all of them were showing 13,84V, so this looks ok.
Latter tested the injector resistance. Three were showing 18,6 ohm, one was showing 04,6ohm. As it is the injector at the side of the engine (near to timebelt, LeftHD car) I assume is cylinder one, as scan results showed.
If i am not wrong, this points injector for cyl. 1 is gone.
Please someone confirm my assumptions, because if this is the problem, i am getting new injector and will replace it.
THNX to all helping me with this problem.
 
Looks like you have identified the cause of the mis-fire. Standard injectors are 16ohm, so the others are fine.
New injectors are expensive so a second hand one from eBay or one of the A2OC members breaking cars and selling spares would be the best route, although I'm not sure of the cost or time to deliver to Slovenia.
 
Thanx Catnip84 for you confirmation.
As i need the car ASAP, will try to get an used injector. Not many A2 here to gt the spares from, so i was thinking if i can use the injector from Fabia, Polo or Seat. If so, how to distinguish the right engine type. Mine is AUA. Is it the same as Fabia AUB? Secondly, does the BBY engine type use the same injectors as AUA? Or is it only important the the engine is the same year of manufacture and with same specifications (1,4, 16V)?

KernowA2 gave me instructions on how to change the injectors. Thanx for that. I think i am enough skilled to fix this by myself. Is there anything i should be specially taking care of?

My mechanic, texted me a SMS, that i should better not drive with the car, as cylinder one is probably not getting enough of lubricant because of the faulty injector. Very nice from him, to reply me on sunday.
 
Seems there are two types of injectors for the AUA engine, details below:

fuel rail; F >> 8Z-2-070 000 Audi A2 (A2) 2003 year Audi EUROPA 133035

fuel rail<br/>F >> 8Z-2-070 000 Audi A2 (A2) 2003 year Audi EUROPA 133035 spare parts
audi.7zap.com audi.7zap.com
Up to this chassis number part numbers 036 906 031 C & 036 906 031 M were used.

After this, only part number 036 906 031 M is used:

fuel rail; F 8Z-3-000 001>> Audi A2 (A2) 2003 year Audi EUROPA 133036

fuel rail<br/>F 8Z-3-000 001>> Audi A2 (A2) 2003 year Audi EUROPA 133036 spare parts
audi.7zap.com audi.7zap.com
The 'i' symbol on the RHS of the part number tables shows the other vehicles that use these injectors. The list includes Fabia as well as Polo and Ibiza. The earlier part number has a much larger list of cars and it does appear as though the BBY engine uses the same type of injector.
 
what an excellent on line catalogue. Its allready in my bookmarks.
I think that difference between two injectors 036 906 031 C & 036 906 031 M is in the electric connector (oval, rightangled). Edited - wrong, the difference is in retaining clip
For sure something to investigate before ordering a new injector. Thanks to point that out Catnip64.
 
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An update...
next morning, before starting the engine, i measured the resistance of injectors again. Interesting enough, all were having similar readings. three were 16,6 one was 14,9ohm. I start the engin and it was running fine. The EML light stop flashing, and went to constantly on. I made a test drive, and all was fine. Even the EML light went of after a couple of kilometers.
Until today, when all of the sudden same symptoms start.
So I open the engine bonnet, and shake the injector of cyl.1. a bit left and right. And after this, the engine was running smooth again.
I went for a test drive, straight to the nearest carpartshop, and bought the injector from magneti marelli for 68EUR.
 
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