fault p1031
- Thread starter weeda
- Start date
PlasticMac
Member
First, check that the EML light is on, when you turn the ignition on, but before starting. It's odd to have a P1031 and no EML light. It might have been "disabled" in the past.
Once you have cleared the P1031 fault, it takes a sequence of events (look back on this thread, especially posts by @lfield for details, including potentiometer checks), so it's initial non reappearance is not surprising.
It's worth getting VCDS Lite registered ($99/£75), no FSI'er should be without it. More detailed checks of flap movement are then available. It only takes the lack of a degree or so flap movement to trigger the P1031 error.
Mac
Once you have cleared the P1031 fault, it takes a sequence of events (look back on this thread, especially posts by @lfield for details, including potentiometer checks), so it's initial non reappearance is not surprising.
It's worth getting VCDS Lite registered ($99/£75), no FSI'er should be without it. More detailed checks of flap movement are then available. It only takes the lack of a degree or so flap movement to trigger the P1031 error.
Mac
PlasticMac
Member
katalin21k
New Member
@jasonnh
I'm no mechanic but since my car started to make problems all i do is research. In your case missfire probably at 1-2k rpm no engine code and small amount of missfire/ cylinder is made by mechanical damage. The exhaust valves do that because of carbon deposit and you are lucky you are in the early stages of problems once carbon is building up. My advice ? the pcv valve is full of oil and bring it back to intake causing carbon build, clean it/buy new one and you will be fine.
That's what i think, if i'm wrong others can correct me.
I'm no mechanic but since my car started to make problems all i do is research. In your case missfire probably at 1-2k rpm no engine code and small amount of missfire/ cylinder is made by mechanical damage. The exhaust valves do that because of carbon deposit and you are lucky you are in the early stages of problems once carbon is building up. My advice ? the pcv valve is full of oil and bring it back to intake causing carbon build, clean it/buy new one and you will be fine.
That's what i think, if i'm wrong others can correct me.
Thanks again.
I have looked a little further, and after yesterday finding the actuator arm was moving thinking this was OK.
However think I have discovered that this is broken as there seems to be more play than expected at the bottom of the rod when I got my finger in and wiggled from behind.
I have looked a little further, and after yesterday finding the actuator arm was moving thinking this was OK.
However think I have discovered that this is broken as there seems to be more play than expected at the bottom of the rod when I got my finger in and wiggled from behind.
ibesiano
Member
Hi All,
Jumping around threads here trying to make sense of the p1031 fault plus the Pro Boost remap thread.:
I have this:
1 Fault Found:
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
Readiness: 1110 0101
Does this mean the manifold is tuck open/closed/halfway?
If open can I ignore and put an order in with A Steve for the Pro Boost?
Jumping around threads here trying to make sense of the p1031 fault plus the Pro Boost remap thread.:
I have this:
1 Fault Found:
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
Readiness: 1110 0101
Does this mean the manifold is tuck open/closed/halfway?
If open can I ignore and put an order in with A Steve for the Pro Boost?
Afternoon,Hi All,
Jumping around threads here trying to make sense of the p1031 fault plus the Pro Boost remap thread.:
I have this:
1 Fault Found:
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
Readiness: 1110 0101
Does this mean the manifold is tuck open/closed/halfway?
If open can I ignore and put an order in with A Steve for the Pro Boost?
This set of codes indicate the classic FSI Achilles's heel of the FSI inlet manifold, most likely you have a broken arm of the vacuum actuator caused by siezed flaps.
To answer your first question the flaps could be open, closed or more likely between the two and not that easy to tell which. You could try assessing the position of the pear shaped linkage to which the arm attaches to determine the flap position but not easy even if possible, I can give some idea of what's what.
To answer your second question, if the flaps are open nothing wrong in theory implementing Pro Boost. My only nagging doubt is that if the actuator arm is broken there is is nothing to pin the flaps open except gravity and one member reported they rattled when like this. (The member pinned them open with a screw).
For peace of mind I would strip and clean, replacing actuator if necessary (or pin flaps open) and then implement Pro Boost if that is what you want to do, a fair bit of labour though.
Andy