fault p1031

hello everyone, I read all the pages of the subjects and I find myself in the same problem
The fault p1031 appeared after the mechanic is dismounting the intake to check the injectors I saw the fault with my vagcom, then I changed the valve n316 and the potentiometer G366, as well as the two hoses of air connected to the valve n316 I tried to adapt the potentiometer with vagcom but since it is written error it does not work I also vacuum to see if the rod goes up well and it works,
to finish the car works well I think that there was a problem with the reassembly of the collector and that the shutters should not move as it should I have the 1.6 fsi on a golf v go I don't think there is a big difference compared to your audi sorry for english i'm french and i use google translation thank you
 
Hi, from a fellow FSI'er!
Use VCDS to see what the flaps are actually doing.
Read Andrew's post on how to do this on page 4 of this thread.
Google Translate is quite good!
Mac.

Shutters = Flaps.
 
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hello everyone, I read all the pages of the subjects and I find myself in the same problem
The fault p1031 appeared after the mechanic is dismounting the intake to check the injectors I saw the fault with my vagcom, then I changed the valve n316 and the potentiometer G366, as well as the two hoses of air connected to the valve n316 I tried to adapt the potentiometer with vagcom but since it is written error it does not work I also vacuum to see if the rod goes up well and it works,
to finish the car works well I think that there was a problem with the reassembly of the collector and that the shutters should not move as it should I have the 1.6 fsi on a golf v go I don't think there is a big difference compared to your audi sorry for english i'm french and i use google translation thank you
Bonsoir,

(Apologies that nearly exhausts my French.)

Sorry you have the fault P1031. It does sound the problem is the reassembly of the manifold (I have a suspicion) and you have more than likely needlessly replaced at some cost most of the lower manifold ancillaries.

Before continuing some questions.

1. Probably the same FSI engine as the A2 but can you confirm the engine code is BAD.
2. I assume the Engine Management Light (EML) is illuminated, but was it on when you picked the car up from the garage or did it come on after and how long after?

Yes, normally a FSH A2 with P1031 will drive fine possibly losing a little mpg but feeling a little flat as though restrained a little.

Andy
 
hello my engine code is BAG, and I have a distribution chain, not sure it's exactly the same as on audi but there must be a lot of common parts the engine engine light is on approximately 100 kilometers after leaving the garage, when I erase the fault it returns directly to the vagcom but,
but after only 100 kilometers on the dashboard the indicator lights up again. For the moment it is going well, no problem but if I want to pass it to the technical control in 1 year I will have to repair it because it refuses the car with the engine light on Actually I think I changed the n316 and the g366 for nothing,
actually I think I only had the air hose almost cut in half, and that the garage didn't even change
 
The fault p1031 appeared after the mechanic is dismounting the intake to check the injectors I saw the fault with my vagcom, then I changed the valve n316 and the potentiometer G366, as well as the two hoses of air connected to the valve n316 I tried to adapt the potentiometer with vagcom but since it is written error it does not work I also vacuum to see if the rod goes up well and it works,
to finish the car works well I think that there was a problem with the reassembly of the collector and that the shutters should not move as it should I have the 1.6 fsi on a golf v go I don't think there is a big difference compared to your audi sorry for english i'm french and i use google translation thank you
As @PlasticMac said, please use VCDS to provide the actual and expected flap positions as well as the offset voltage using measuring block 142. The initial reading with the ignition on and engine off as well as when the engine at idle should be enough to diagnose the problem.
 
in fact I meant the values that I saw on group 142 at the vagcom do not correspond to what I saw in the subject
I've had a look at 7zap and your inlet manifold, yes largely the same but part numbers are different besides other actual minor differences, for example the actuator arm is vertical as though the flap rod linkage arrangement is "improved" (breaks common on our A2's).

As suggested take a short log of group 142 and post the output here for any chance of making progress.

Andy
 
hello everyone, I'm posting group 142 photos, sorry I didn't manage to take screenshots so I took photos (I'm not good with a PC)
I took pictures with the ignition on, others slowed down and accelerated
the flaps must block somewhere, because we see on group 142 that the current position and the specified position of the flaps and diferrente
or can the membrane of the pierced vacuum capsule block the functioning of the flaps?
 

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The offset voltage seems a little high. I would suggest following the steps in post #197 to check the mechanical operation of the flaps and vaccum.
 
Hi @vincedu83.
Your VCDS tests are very helpful. The flap position, as measured by the potentiometer does not match the position requested by the ECU.
As @Ifield suggests, could you now please check the movement of the actuator rod and linkage?
This is to check if the movement of the actuator matches the flap movement that you see on the VCDS screen.

  1. Do the flaps have the full range of movement?
    1. Disconnect the pipe from the control valve (N316).
    2. Rotate the pipe under the air intake (this may be a little different on your engine,)
    3. Suck it an see (use your mouth to create a vacum and see the actuator move)
  2. Is it being activated by the vacuum?
    1. Turn the ignition on to purge the vacuum
    2. Make a mark on the actuator arm with Tippex
    3. Turn the engine on (idle)
    4. Make another mark on the actuator arm
    5. Is the travel (between step 2 and step 4) approximately ~15mm?
Mac.
 
Hello I have already done the suction test, I can see the rod mounted, I remember that the rod does not move much but the 15 mm must be there I could do the tippex test that next weekend I will come and post the result
 
@vincedu83, I think you should remove or disconnect the linkage from the actuator rod, then repeat the "suck test"
If the rod moves more (approx 15mm) than with the linkage connected, this will tell you that the flap mechanism is "sticky"
If the rod moves the same as with the linkage connected, the actuator of N316 valve is suspect.
With the linkage disconnected, you may be able to check the flap mechanism for stiffness.

Pictures would be good if you are able.

Bonne chance, mon ami.

Regards Mac.
 
Thanks for the pictures, incidently so much better when a VCDS label file is present with appropriate field descriptors.

As to the VCDS output in your pictures the evidence does suggest the the flaps fail to fully close (94.1% not 100%) or fully open (78.4% not 0%), but positive the flaps are trying to move open when requested at revs over 3000rpm. Why is still a work in progress.

When you perform a repeat of the suck test I suggest you log (record) the VCDS output and post it here, which I assume is the 'Enreg.' click button at the bottom right of the screen you are showing. I hope your computer skills are up to this, the log file can be found after in a sub folder Logs of the main VCDS folder (in the English version of VCDS) and then best to use a spreadsheet program such as Excel (or similiar) to present the output. Same applies if you are able to manually exercise the flaps.

Andy
 
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Back but with very little to report. Had a bit of time on the A2 yesterday, admittedly in the dark in a public car park, but didn't think it would be a problem. Having downloaded VCDS Lite and found that it appeared to work with a cable I got with VAG COM a number of years ago, I set about it intending to check the flap positions and feedback readings the same as in post #210 and run the calibration as in post #187. Cable connected fine and all appeared to be OK until I tried to look at Block 142 only to be told that the software needs to be registered to do that. Seems that Ross Tech consider registration to be different to most other software companies in as much as it isn't registration but buying an upgrade. Spending $99 on something that is only ever likely to be used this once seems a bit steep to me. Having had a play with it, it appears that the free version can't do much more than my £35 generic OBD scanner can. The car is now at the other end of the country again but if there is anyone in the Cambs/Lincs area that will be able to help in a couple of weeks, then I'd be pleased to hear from them.
 
The car is now at the other end of the country again but if there is anyone in the Cambs/Lincs area that will be able to help in a couple of weeks, then I'd be pleased to hear from them.

I'm in Norwich and have the full fat VCDS. Maybe we can sort something out?
 
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