Finding and preparing a new to me AMF

It is indeed interesting this. I guess at some time I will need to do this at my 1.2TDIs.
Edit: the oil pump chain change, the full scope of the work in this thread will not be applicable to a 1.2TDI
 
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CrispyEdd said:
Seems straight forward enough (obviously a lot of work to get to it all!). Which cogs did you replace?
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I didn't replace any, all are used. An explanation is due.

The block I'm working on I bought as a 100k mile replacement, my own engie had suffered the 5.5v glow plug disaster. I twas the best engine I could find at the time, the service history was unknown, it had probably been a city car idling a lot, the bores were glazed and the cam shells worn so I decided on an overhaul.

My 170k mile engine was written off due to a failed thrust pad damaging both the crank and block so I'm combining the best parts into one engine.

From the 100k mile engine I'm using:

Block
Pistons
Crank
Oil pump
Turbo
Head and valves
Injectors

From the 170K mile engine I'm using:

Rocker cover (upgraded)
Cam (sharper)
Rocker shaft (tighter)
Manifolds (cleaner)
Balance shaft and frame (tighter)
Tandem pump (Bosch)
Water pump (low miles, steel impeller)
EGR (low miles and clean)

Bearings, gaskets, seals, timing belt, tappets all new.

Which finally brings me to answering the question. The 100k chain and tensioner were in respectable condition, I took this as an indicator of a genuine 100k mileage.

My own engine has only clocked 25k miles since I did this work https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...-chain-and-chain-tensioner-replacement.35539/

So I fitted 25k mile chain, tension frame, idler sprocket, oil pump sprocket, balance shaft sprocket. I left the 100k mile crank sprocket on the crank.
 
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Joga said:
It is indeed interesting this. I guess at some time I will need to do this at my 1.2TDIs.
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Reasonably robust engines, but far from perfect. The parts that tend to wear prematurely are the cam bearings associated with the PD injector loads; engine in car work. Just keep changing the oil is my advice.

Thrust pads though are only 180 degree and probably not upto the job. My car was a big miles commuter so it clocked its 170k miles with relatively few starts and a low number of gear changes. It still had its factory clutch, aftermarket clutches can cause thrust pad failure but not in my case. It had a full service history plus. I don't ride the clutch, so overall the thrust pad had an easy life. However it failed taking out the crank and block. 🤞 you don't experience this problem. There is nothing economically viable that can be done to salvage the block and crank.

I will be looking at clutchless start when I get this engine installed. That topic probably deserves its own thread

Edit, this is the failed thrust pad next to a good one:

IMG_1371[2].JPG


It has been worn paper thin then dragged out of position and wedged between the bearing cap and crank. It wedged so tight the pad has started to extrude. Total failure was immanent.
 
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120 Nm + 90 degrees, that's about 200 Nm. The engine stand could flip over,

IMG_1532[1].JPG


Yes it is a 10.9 non stretch but this one I decided to replace. Only indoors job I'm doing this weekend. Let battle commence.
 
Loving the thread!

Could you explain as to how aftermarket clutches can cause thrust pad failure? I have never heard of this before but certainly more than happy to be educated?
Did your old engine leak oil from the rear main due to the condition of the thrust pad?
Years ago I took a sump off a transit as part of oil pump recall at the time and found a thrust pad washer in the pan. I was told to just carry out the campaign and road test, it drove perfectly without any issues however what happened afterwards is anyone's guess!
 
@Howey I became aware of the thrust pad issues with VAG engines years ago through other VAG brand forums. Spent some time researching it and it was generally considered a design weakness. As a credibility check I just now have taken a look at a crank exploded view of an AFN engine, the mighty forerunner of PD engines; it does indeed have a 360 degree thrust pad. Probably a cost saving change on the new engine to reduce the thrust pad to 180 degrees and the reason thrust pads on PD engines have been considered a design weakness. No reports on here so I never expected it to happen to me.
Aftermarket clutches were suggested as a risk contributing to thrust pad failure. The argument went that some brands do not manufacture to OEM standards and the spring weight can be a little heavy putting more load on the thrust pad. I've experienced this with a classic Mini and had to swap the clutch out. When I paid a local garage to fit a clutch to an Audi A4 they fit three before they were happy with the pedal weight and gave me the car back. Probably best to play it safe and buy from an OEM supplier.
I've lost three clutches over the years to main crank seal failures. Two were traditional rubber seals but the third seal on my A2 is PTFE. I've never before had one of those fail, two have lasted over 200k miles. So yes I'm putting the MCS failure and resulting clutch contamination down to thrust pad failure and excessive end float of the crank.
As you say thrust pad failure can go undetected, it did in my case. I also think it a rare failure but it is probably worth checking end float if you are changing a clutch. Catch it in time and the pads can be replaced with the engine in the car by removing the sump and balance shaft frame.

Edit, an endfloat check would have shown nothing untoward in my engine. The pad was wedged between the bearing cap and crank taking out the end float. I would have replaced the seal and clutch only for it all to fail again. For the ten minutes it takes the endfloat check I think is worth the effort, you may find the problem before the pad wears sufficiently to move or detect one that has fallen out.
 
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Little Dog said:
@Howey I became aware of the thrust pad issues with VAG engines years ago through other VAG brand forums. Spent some time researching it and it was generally considered a design weakness. As a credibility check I just now have taken a look at a crank exploded view of an AFN engine, the mighty forerunner of PD engines; it does indeed have a 360 degree thrust pad. Probably a cost saving change on the new engine to reduce the thrust pad to 180 degrees and the reason thrust pads on PD engines have been considered a design weakness. No reports on here so I never expected it to happen to me.
Aftermarket clutches were suggested as a risk contributing to thrust pad failure. The argument went that some brands do not manufacture to OEM standards and the spring weight can be a little heavy putting more load on the thrust pad. I've experienced this with a classic Mini and had to swap the clutch out. When I paid a local garage to fit a clutch to an Audi A4 they fit three before they were happy with the pedal weight and gave me the car back. Probably best to play it safe and buy from an OEM supplier.
I've lost three clutches over the years to main crank seal failures. Two were traditional rubber seals but the third seal on my A2 is PTFE. I've never before had one of those fail, two have lasted over 200k miles. So yes I'm putting the MCS failure and resulting clutch contamination down to thrust pad failure and excessive end float of the crank.
As you say thrust pad failure can go undetected, it did in my case. I also think it a rare failure but it is probably worth checking end float if you are changing a clutch. Catch it in time and the pads can be replaced with the engine in the car by removing the sump and balance shaft frame.

Edit, an endfloat check would have shown nothing untoward in my engine. The pad was wedged between the bearing cap and crank taking out the end float. I would have replaced the seal and clutch only for it all to fail again. For the ten minutes it takes the endfloat check I think is worth the effort, you may find the problem before the pad wears sufficiently to move or detect one that has fallen out.
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Wow thanks for that, certainly food for thought!
 
Not getting much time on this. Sump has been problematic. The two M10 threads to connect the sump to the gearbox had galvanic corrosion so needed coiling. Had a senior moment and selected the wrong drill, not enough torque and too much speed. The drill snatched, there was a massive cracking noise, I thought I had cracked the sump. I appear to have got away with it:

IMG_1534[1].JPG
 
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