Flasher unit DIY repair (part 8Z0 941 509 B)

It is important to remember that the ashtray MUST be open before you start trying to remove the storage shelf, as there is a lip on it which will break the ashtrays opening mechanism when the storage unit finally shoots out (which it normally does).

Cheers,

Mike
 
Hi A2driver - that's very useful info
While it's fresh in your mind, do you have any additional tips on removing the multi pin connector and flasher unit. I know that a few members have followed the previous posts but still really struggled to get the unit out.

Cheers Spike
 
To get the flasher unit out, first remove the connector by squeezing the sides inwards and pulling it to the right.

Then you can squeeze the metal clips on the body of the unit and again remove it to the right.

Be very careful to not apply too much force or you will snap the thin plastic retainers back there.

Cheers,

Mike
 
As mike says...only I slid the unit to the left first whilst guiding/pushing the cable to give enough slack and then once the unit was free there is enough slack to pull the unit towards me and unclip the multi-plug.
 
hi, i just had the indicator/hazard light relay replaced, cost me £100 and 45 minutes.
I problem was that the hazard lights would go off invariably whilst locked, sometimes during the night. This ofcourse causes the battery to drain.
I wish I had gone to this site before, sounds like something I could have fixed my self. The relay switch was £24, the labour £75.

Anyhow, appreciate the tips, will login more often now.
 
I have just found this thread and thought it was just mine that had had this problem! Was an easy enough fix for a DIY er like my self but I will agree with the above posts that getting the unit out of its holder is a bit of a pain in the ar5e!

Stephen
 
Hi all a2oc members

I found this thread really useful today and i decided to add a bit more to it. I changed the flasher unit on my girls 2001 SE today, didn`t have to much trouble doing the job, all as described in earlier posts. I did however open up the unit to reveal the offending relay. I managed to bring the relay back to life by blowing the carbon build up from the contacts out and adjusting the gap between.

Great i thought might save me buying one for a while, when i was testing before putting it all back together i must of pushed the metal part (heatsink) standing up next to the relay over so it touched the relay housing,by doing this meant that when i tested i must of shorted the unit so be careful when your handling it not to push this over. Its easily done.

Got the new unit from audi and all is well now.

uNco
 
Rosie's indicators had been playing up for the last month or so - you know the drill; intermittent clicking, sometimes they'd work for a whole trip, sometimes one click then nothing.

I tried to get the oddment tray out, but simply couldn't move it. I pressed on the sides, pressed at the top, heaved, shoved, dragged, pulled, but nothing. So I gave up and took her into Beechwood.

So, £100 lighter (and with a much cleaner car I must say) I have a full complement of indicators. The 'click' sounds a little bit different. Can't put my finger on it, but it sounds to me as though they have fitted a new/modified part.
 
Last edited:
Hi Dev,
My wife complained to me recently about irregular indicator flashing on her 1.4 03 29000m A2. Inspired by your step by step approach to solving this problem I set about it, but with some slight alterations to method. Just thought my observations might be of interest.

Put your hands inside the centre storage compartment, press outwards, waggle from side to side until 1 of the 2 clips releases. Take care your hands are inside and not on the outer surround which is clipped to the inner lining to avoid potentially damaging its fastenings to the lining.

Remove the ashtray lining exposing 2 torx headed screws, and remove the ashtray.

The rectangular flasher unit is locked horizontally in a cradle at the back of the compartment and released by squeezing a spring inwards, towards the unit, giving enough play to move the unit vertically and slide to the right.

The plug at the left end can be removed by squeezing in the plastic locking
fingers. (Its stiff) The unit will slide completely out of its cradle and can be withdrawn.

I found there was sufficient free cabling to replug the cable into the unit while lying in front of the gear lever, (having removed the unit casing by carefully depressing lugs on the sides), so I could watch the relay operating.

The plastic shield, around the connecting pins, can be removed by pushing a locking pin out lengthways.

I found by scratching/scraping the contact surfaces with a sewing needle, the only thing I could get near the contacts, has proved sufficient to cure the problem to date. Clearly replacement with a unit from Maplin/RS is a permanent cure, but time didnt allow. I noticed the offending relay has 5 stamped on it and wondered if thats its rating - 21w bulbsx2 +5w bulb(repeater)x1 = 47w/12= 4amps. Did they thinK a 5amp rating would be sufficient I wonder?
The other relay has 17 stamped on it.

Interested to hear your comments. Stan
 
Last edited:
unipower

Push against the top and bottom of the cubby hole well pulling out and it will eventaully come out. If its the first time its been out its probably just stiff

oops just realised i was reading the first page
 
Last edited:
Just to correct and emphasise one point:

Make sure that the ashtray is open BEFORE you remove the storage tray, otherwise you will damage the mechanism as the tray shoots out, meaning that you'll have to get a new ashtray.

Cheers,

Mike
 
I found by scratching/scraping the contact surfaces with a sewing needle, the only thing I could get near the contacts, has proved sufficient to cure the problem to date. Clearly replacement with a unit from Maplin/RS is a permanent cure, but time didnt allow. I noticed the offending relay has 5 stamped on it and wondered if thats its rating - 21w bulbsx2 +5w bulb(repeater)x1 = 47w/12= 4amps. Did they thinK a 5amp rating would be sufficient I wonder?
The other relay has 17 stamped on it.

Hi Stan,

glad to hear you had some success. Thanks for the update. I'm not sure what the numbers mean, but they are more likely to be a batch or date code, or possibly a type code, rather than a rating. Continuous ratings aren't much use for relays controlling incandescent bulbs. The initial current, when the relay contacts make (and bounce), is many times higher than the final current because the bulb filaments have much lower resistance when cold.

As you've found, you can clean up the contacts, but don't expect them to last. The unevenness of the contact surfaces will accelerate further erosion. I recommend you replace the relay when time permits. Having gone through the procedure once it's easy to get the module out and fix it.

Regards,

Dev
 
Hi Stan,

glad to hear you had some success. Thanks for the update. I'm not sure what the numbers mean, but they are more likely to be a batch or date code, or possibly a type code, rather than a rating. Continuous ratings aren't much use for relays controlling incandescent bulbs. The initial current, when the relay contacts make (and bounce), is many times higher than the final current because the bulb filaments have much lower resistance when cold.

As you've found, you can clean up the contacts, but don't expect them to last. The unevenness of the contact surfaces will accelerate further erosion. I recommend you replace the relay when time permits. Having gone through the procedure once it's easy to get the module out and fix it.

Regards,

Dev

Thanks Dev for responding, interesting to know why a higher rating is reqd, not familiar with electrical intracacies, I'll obtain a 12v/20Amp relay and make a permanent repair. Stan
 
Flasher relay removal with naviplus

These instructions were really useful, but have a Navi+, and then the perspective is a little bit different. It is even more difficult to get your fingers to the springs to prise the relay out of the cradle. On the other hand you have direct access to two screws holding the lower end of the cradle through the ashtray opening. The upper end of the cradle has to clip ends that can be unlatched with a screwdriver when the climate panel is taken out (no need to take out the plugs). Then the cradle with relay inside may be taken out the naviplus opening.

My relay had both a worn contact in the relay remedied by bending the contact spring as mentioned above, and a crached soldering on one of the contact pins.
 
Last edited:
Is the DIY replacement of the Flasher unit any different if you have the symphony II/Bose and hence climate at the bottom of the central console?

Just wanted to check. The problem I have is that the indicators stay on when you use them whilst you are driving, but work correctly when you are stationary(?!)

Assumed this would be the flasher unit, if anyone feels it may be something different I would welcome the advice.

Also, has anyone an up to date price for the flasher unit - not sure if vagparts do this

Ta
Glen
 
Repair or replacement is exactly the same, but access is easier, as the opening is bigger!

The current price is £24.63 from a dealer.

Cheers,

Mike
 
Hi Glen
Can you explain the problem in a bit more detail - do you mean the indicators don't self cancel while driving and stay on, even if you manually return the indicator stalk to the mid position. Then, with the car stationary, they will flash and cancel normally as you operate the stalk?
Cheers Spike
 
Hi spike and mike
thanks again mike for the costs etc (by the way if I haven't said already appreciate the club badge efforts, really looks good on the car)
Spike - thanks for the response, the problem goes like this:

start the car, try the indicators, they work normally
Move off, try the indicators, they don't flash the lights just stay on, either left or right and the dash indicator light stays on
come to a stop again, try the indicators, they work normally again

This is also intermittent.
I assumed some degradation of the contacts within the flasher relay, carbon build up etc and thought replace it now rather than wait for what i assume will be the inevitable, and wondered if there was any variations in location of unit etc

Any thoughts welcomed

Thanks again
Glen
 
Hi Glen
I'm no electrics guru and can't think of the logic for the flashers not to work when moving unless its just road vibration related. If you can change the flasher unit yourself, then for under £25, I would give it a try.
Let us know how you get on

Cheers Spike
 
Ta spike, will get the part tomorrow and give some feedback once i fit
I am okay as I drive the other A2 which is fine (lucy however will have to use some other hand signals for a change!)
Cheers
Glen
 
Back
Top