Front seat base swap.

Little Dog

Little Dog

A2OC Donor
European-Union
I'm planning the next job on Little Dog. At 170k miles the drivers seat base has become soggy and cover is beginning to wear on the outer edge. The passenger seat base though is firm and the cover in reasonable condition. I've checked 7Zap and it appears that the cover and foam both have one part number that fits left or right.

A2 seats.jpg


More questions to follow but first; the cushions and covers are the same and can be swapped? 2003 SE fabric covers.
 
DJ 190 said:
I've changed over the bases a couple of times. It's a big improvement in appearance. The seat profile is slightly different near the centre section but there is still enough clearance for the seats to move fore and aft.

David
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I was going to say that I run the seat low and back fully and there is a contour for the handbrake centre cubby area. My leathers squeak a bit if I go too low. (Oooer Mrs!!!) 😆 🤣
 
My local Audi dealer has confirmed that the seat cushions on my A2 are not sided and they have staples in stock. Looks like the plan is a goer.

Anybody got by without VAG tool 1634B:

A2 staple pliers.jpg


These fit the staples. Can the job be done with suitably sized water pump pliers?
 
I've seen the staples this morning at my local Audi dealer. They will not be easy to crimp using water pump pliers. I would have to modify some cheap pliers and that may not work.
However I can buy, for about £40, VAG 1634 direct from Audi. A bit pricey but having considered the comment from @Andrew I'm collecting the tool and staples on Friday.
 
I have tool VAG 1633 and a pack of staples now I'm waiting for it to stop raining and I can get the seats out. Looks straight forward but this will be the first time I had dealt with airbags.
Audi advise that an airbag tool (supplementary harness) is required:

A2 seats 3.jpg


My plan was to disconnect the battery, remove the seats, then reconnect the battery to lock up the car. Will this work or is there a chance I will fire the airbags?
 
If I recall correctly I disconnected the battery and ensured no residual charge in the circuits (switch ignition on whilst battery disconnected) before I disconnected the airbag connectors. If the battery remains disconnected for a long period you will probably get a dashboard light come on for the airbags when all reconnected. This requires a simple reset using vagcom or even a simple OBD11 App
 
philward said:
.....

My plan was to disconnect the battery, remove the seats, then reconnect the battery to lock up the car. Will this work or is there a chance I will fire the airbags?
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I am not knowledgeable enough to comment on your plan, it would be good to know from somebody who does, without knowing I would be uneasy about reconnecting the battery to allow locking.

I would play safe and have come up with a plan and not reconnect the battery.

1. Check the emergency boot release is in working order.
2. Remove rear seats.
3. Remove the four bolts fixing the drivers seat.
4. Open drivers door and boot and leave open.
5. Lock the car to lock the three side doors.
6. Disconnect battery and dissipate any remaining charge eg. turn main headlights on briefly or attempt to lower driver's side window. I am assuming the three side doors will remain locked.
7. Lean seat back on backrest and disconnect airbag and heated seat connectors.
8. Slide seat back out through boot. (Best way to do it)
9. Shut boot.
10. Lock driver's door with the physical key.

When the time comes unlock boot with emergency release, after unlocking driver's door with the physical key to gain access, refit seat and reconnect battery and resync remotes, recode radio if needed.

Far easier to use your plan if verified to be safe but wonder if my plan will work, comment would be good.

Andy
 
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Very late to party, but as far as key is not in ignition, should be doable without disconnecting battery. For extra safe, probably can disconnect and reconnect for locking after unplugging seats, just don't use key in ignition. Same in plugging back in i guess.

And if by clips you mean the circle things, was not that hard to reuse old ones without special tools.
My front seat post was done without any special things.
But you already obtained them. Bending circles is not for everyone, but i personally don't mind that so much.
 
Well that was easy so far; 8 screws, 4 bits of trim, a battery to disconnect and two connectors to disconnect. Once the battery was reconnected the car didn't recognise the remote but it locked with the key in the drivers door. I'll probably have to pair the remotes with the car when I'm finished.

Looks like I over prepared too buying tools and upholstery staples; the seat bases look identical so there is no need to remove the covers and foam. I believe I can simply swap the bases over. I just need some harness clips, I think I have some in the attic.

IMG_0550.jpg
 
You can see the four bolts of the front mountings for the seat base, nice and easy. The fun bit is the other mountings, which are big XZN spline bolts towards the rear of the sides. These are difficult to access (certain levels of seat height and maybe rake adjustment are required), they're Loctited in and torque on them often breaks free the captive nut they're bolted into on the inside of the plastic base. At that point it becomes a covers-off operation, but you might still get away without detatching the covers from the seat foam and just swap those between the plastic seat bases.
 
Proghound said:
You can see the four bolts of the front mountings for the seat base, nice and easy. The fun bit is the other mountings, which are big XZN spline bolts towards the rear of the sides. These are difficult to access (certain levels of seat height and maybe rake adjustment are required), they're Loctited in and torque on them often breaks free the captive nut they're bolted into on the inside of the plastic base. At that point it becomes a covers-off operation, but you might still get away without detatching the covers from the seat foam and just swap those between the plastic seat bases.
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I got them off, those spline bolts are tight. I wasn't polite and they didn't stand a chance, it was only when I had them out that I realised the captive nuts were molded in plastic. All is well though.

The assembled bases are identical so I will simply swap them over after a good clean.

One slight problem I locked the shopping (including beer) in the car. Drivers door opened but set off the alarm. Locked the door but the alarm kept going. Manual released the hatch and disconnected the battery. Lights stopped flashing but the alarm is battery backed :mad: Silence at long last I think the alarm battery has gone flat. Beer o'clock 👍
 
Only way to stop the alarm when activated is ignition on ... which of course will put the airbag light on when the front seats are out :oops:
Only way to resync the remote to avoid the alarm on opening also involves ignition. :oops:
Only way to avoid this situation is to leave the battery connected when taking the seats out, just ensure the ignition is off.
I accept it's the best guarantee of airbag safety to disconnect the battery, but I've done it without on numerous occasions.
 
Yes @Proghound I figured I was stuck with the situation until the seats go back in. The car is locked and silent now, I guess it ran the alarm battery, wherever that is, flat.
 
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I would recommend a seat base swap if your drivers seat is sagging and the fabric wearing:

IMG_0558.jpg



Advantages:
The base of the drivers seat is firmer and more comfy.
Both seats feel better because the worn bolster is on the inside on both sides.
A chance to clean out 20 years of accumulated muck while the seats are out.
Rust on both seat frames can be converted and painted.
All mechanisms can be cleaned and lubricated.
No special tools needed.

Tips:
I drilled a small hole in each trim on the outside of the bases. this was so that I could spring the rearmost clips. Holes not visible when reassembled.
4 pop rivets were replace with M5 screws.
I put the seats back in through the boot, only the drivers door and hatch would open, battery disconnected.

Straightforward job, pleased with that :)
 
philward said:
I would recommend a seat base swap if your drivers seat is sagging and the fabric wearing:

View attachment 102010


Advantages:
The base of the drivers seat is firmer and more comfy.
Both seats feel better because the worn bolster is on the inside on both sides.
A chance to clean out 20 years of accumulated muck while the seats are out.
Rust on both seat frames can be converted and painted.
All mechanisms can be cleaned and lubricated.
No special tools needed.

Tips:
I drilled a small hole in each trim on the outside of the bases. this was so that I could spring the rearmost clips. Holes not visible when reassembled.
4 pop rivets were replace with M5 screws.
I put the seats back in through the boot, only the drivers door and hatch would open, battery disconnected.

Straightforward job, pleased with that :)
Click to expand...
An excellent idea. I did something similar with my Leather/Alcantara seats. I swapped them into a LHD 1.2 which worked perfectly 😉
 
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