Front Shock Removal

H

Hugh Meagher

Member
I'm trying to remove the front shock and am at the point of removing the hub from the drive shaft.
I have looked up a number of threads and watched at video or two and purchased myself a 36mm socket. This did not fit and I went back and had another look, this time I purchased a 36mm thnin wall socket! €40 buck later it still does not fit!
What am I missing? See photos....
 

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Why are you trying to remove the hub? The strut is removed from the top mount and splits from the steering knuckle. Hub , drive shaft and brakes all left in place. You need to disconnect the drop links and the wiring for the ABS, brake wear have to be unclipped from the strut. Lower ball joint split and with the upper bolts still in place the fitting for the lower pinch bolt spread and the knuckle hammered off down wards. Top bolt removed and the strut comes out.

You can remove the hub / drive shaft but it is optional.

There is a chance that you have the early ( original ) hub nut that requires a hexagon bit to remove (19mm)
 
That is exactly what you have here and you need a 17 or 19mm Allen key (can’t recall which size it is) not the 36mm 12 point socket. You will need the socket to refit the new style nut


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Unless you are doing the bearings too, leave the hub nut alone!
As has been said earlier, undo the fore and aft bolt at the base of the strut, insert a spreader, flood with Plus gas or similar and knock the the hub assembly down to clear the base of the strut. Undo the three top mount bolts and the strut will drop clear.
 
depronman said:
That is exactly what you have here and you need a 17 or 19mm Allen key (can’t recall which size it is) not the 36mm 12 point socket. You will need the socket to refit the new style nut


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Click to expand...

It’s 19 mm Allen key you need to remove that


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I did this work on my 2003 1.4 petrol with standard suspension (i.e. not SPORT) some months ago.
On the right side there is actually not enough room for the knuckle to be pushed far enough down to allow the damper to be free out of the knuckle, without removing the driveshaft from the hub.
Else the driveshaft gets stuck on some chassi parts and stops further downward movements of the knuckle.
Might be very different on the diesels.
Left side is ok though.
 
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Standard fitment was the internal hex nut but all replacement nuts are external and need the thin walled socket. Not sure now if all original drive shaft nuts were the internal hex or if there was a production change date for later cars to have the external nut.
So are you still going to remove it or just split the strut from the steering knuckle at the pinch bolt. Whatever you end up doing you must replace all the bolts / nuts that you removed with new.
 
So if I disconnect the whole assembly by removing the hex nut, where do I get new nuts and what specifications do I need?
 
Hugh Meagher said:
So if I disconnect the whole assembly by removing the hex nut, where do I get new nuts and what specifications do I need?
Click to expand...
There is a list somewhere on here of each item I put the part numbers into google and ended up buying the lot from one supplier I ordered 3 sets I don’t know were it was years ago ..it may well have been checz republic I have one set left along with the whole new suspension kit ..If you can find the list someone on here will know ..
 
Hugh Meagher said:
So if I disconnect the whole assembly by removing the hex nut, where do I get new nuts and what specifications do I need?
Click to expand...

I think that this is the thread that @greywolfhound is referencing:

The Definitive Suspension Parts List

If you're looking to do a complete suspension overhaul, you'll need a collection of miscellaneous parts. The purpose of this thread is to keep an up-to-date list of part numbers. Choose your dampers, springs and drop links and add the following for a complete renewal of the suspension. 6N0 412...
www.a2oc.net

You can easily find out part number specifics using 7zap. Here you go:

front axle, steering Audi A2 (A2) 2001 year Audi EUROPA

front axle, steering Audi A2 (A2) 2001 year Audi EUROPA spare parts
audi.7zap.com audi.7zap.com
 
steve_c said:
I think that this is the thread that @greywolfhound is referencing:

The Definitive Suspension Parts List

If you're looking to do a complete suspension overhaul, you'll need a collection of miscellaneous parts. The purpose of this thread is to keep an up-to-date list of part numbers. Choose your dampers, springs and drop links and add the following for a complete renewal of the suspension. 6N0 412...
www.a2oc.net

You can easily find out part number specifics using 7zap. Here you go:

front axle, steering Audi A2 (A2) 2001 year Audi EUROPA

front axle, steering Audi A2 (A2) 2001 year Audi EUROPA spare parts
audi.7zap.com audi.7zap.com
Click to expand...
Thankyou Steve that’s the one ?
 
I have removed the drivers front shock and the hub though not as part of the same operation. You have a 19 mm allen fixing as I had. You can either use an allen key or bash in a cold chisel and then turn it. There is very little torque on it although you have to overcome the two sprags as pictured above.
With regard to the shock, it comes out of the hub easily although you could do with some spring compressors, which you can put on prior to jacking up the car, otherwise the spring will expand to much. They are less than 10 pounds online.
I did not renew any bolts and they are still on the car after two years.
 
The continuing story.....

So it's an old car that has being layed up for a long time, this explains why the nuts are rusty.

I have disconnected the connecting rod to the anti roll bar (damaged in process and have ordered new ones). I tried to disconnect the steering arm but the "bolt" just turns with the nut, I am afraid of damaging it if I use a vice grips to hold the "bolt".
I disconnected the top of the shock from car and it drops a little and moves.
I undid the bolt that clamps the hub assembly onto the bottom of the shock, however I cannot budge the shock from this holder.

Any suggestions short of cutting equipment appreciated!
 
The hub will need spread a smidge in the rear slot
Soak junction of shock and hub in lube to ease removal
The track rod end nut that is spinning may come off with an impact gun if supported from below perhaps on an axle stand or trolley jack depending on what you have available
If there is play in the track rod end joint you could take a grinder or saw to it
 
Steering arm??

Bolt the strut back in the upper mount. this takes the weight and helps when you pry the pinch apart using a wedge and hammer the knuckle off the bottom. The use of spring compressors, if VERY CAREFUL will give more room for the knuckle to drop but can be done without the spring compressors.

LOTS OF RELEASE AGENT AND LET IS SOAK

This is the tool Audi use..

1626296411211.png

You must remove the bolt and not just take the nut off. Remember all bolts / nuts will have to be replaced with new on reassembly.
 
Have a look at this youtube video about removing a golf strut. The important part is where he gets the strut out the knuckle...

 
You need to spread the hub assembly. This obviously gives you more slack but also in an old car will also break those rusty bonds. I used a cold chisel and a hammer( go easy) to open up the holder, although you can get a spreader. If done properly it will be obviously loose.
 
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