Front springs, shocks and top mounts?

Howey

Member
England
Howdy folks

Just wondered what makes you good people to your cars?

KYB is coming out well priced, with the top mounts is it just the bearing thats worth replacing or do both parts wear?

Getting sachs shocks

Cheers

Howey
 
Meyle is a good make ..top mounts come in two pieces ..with new bolts etc ..for the work involved not worth penny pinching while strut is apart ..
 

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use the HD OEM top mounts is my advice. Part numbers all in the thread listed.

- Bret
 
My preference would be Suplex over KYB. Suplex tend to more closely match the original Audi A2 springs. KYB have a more one size fits all approach.

The Audi A2 springs are covered by five front springs and three rear springs (not including the Sport models, which I haven't listed).

Five Front Springs

8Z0411105AL
(Front springs for 1.4 diesel without sunroof and 1.6 petrol)
Length 338mm, Thickness 11.5mm
Spidan 49515, Suplex 03170

8Z0411105AM
(Front springs for 1.4 petrol without sunroof)
Length 330mm, Thickness 11.25mm
Spidan 49527, Suplex 03171

8Z0411105AH
(Front springs for 1.4 diesel with sunroof)
Length 338mm, Thickness 11.25mm
Spidan 56830, Suplex 03206

8Z0411105AJ
(Front springs for 1.4 petrol with sunroof)
Length 328mm, Thickness 11mm
Spidan 56831, Suplex 03207

8Z0411105B
(Front springs for 1.2 diesel)
Length 293mm, Thickness 11mm
Spidan 56832, Suplex 03205

Three Rear Springs

8Z0511115BB
(Rear springs for all models with sunroof except 1.2 diesel)
Length 339mm, Thickness 10.25mm
Spidan 56833, Suplex 03208

8Z0511115AS
(Rear springs for all models without sunroof except 1.2 diesel)
Length 338mm, Thickness 9.75mm
Spidan 49546, Suplex 03172

8Z0511115AL
(Rear springs for 1.2 diesel)
Length 328mm, Thickness 9.25mm
Spidan 56834, Suplex 03209

Sources of Information


gknautomotive.com
optimal-germany.com
autodoc.co.uk
 
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With everything to hand inc new bolts and front struts put together how long should a garage take to fit all 4 struts inc rear springs ..
 
Whats it on? I did a set of coilovers in just over 5 hrs on a tdi but had to swap the top mounts over. If you buy a complete kit - all bump rubbers and covers etc it would maybe save a bit of time. I'd estimate at between 4 and 6 hrs labour (if everything comes undone) not including a geo check after.
 
Find it mighty strange how the spring height varies from 330/338/342??

Gather any would do then as must be a stiffness to height ratio (ohh eerrr!!)
 
Find it mighty strange how the spring height varies from 330/338/342??

Gather any would do then as must be a stiffness to height ratio (ohh eerrr!!)
I looked at this but bilstein give same set for all 3 a2s ..so a diesel may sit lower than petrol on the front ..then you have oss extra weight..
 
Find it mighty strange how the spring height varies from 330/338/342??

Gather any would do then as must be a stiffness to height ratio (ohh eerrr!!)
Sachs/Optimal/TRW often list slightly different lengths to Spidan/Suplex for what should be the same specification of spring. I don't know where the aftermarket spring manufacturers get their figures from, but it can't be from Audi or they would all have the same figures. Maybe each aftermarket spring manufacturer buys a spring from an Audi parts department and measures it and copies it? Obviously, this will result in different measurements being taken as each spring could be slightly different due to things like different batches/factories/suppliers. Also, aftermarket spring manufacturers sometimes give out wrong specifications for their own springs due to human error. Sometimes these errors are easy to spot such as when they claim that it's 100mm longer than you know that it should be. I once emailed gknautomotive about an obvious mistake in their online catalogue but they didn't bother replying or correcting their mistake.
 
Anything wrong with your springs?

I bought a full set of Bilstine B4 shocks front and rear for the fsi check on ebay, i paid £67 for fronts 78 for the rears delivered. To be honest those prices are cheap for one of the best makes going. Buy volkswagen Polo top mounts as indicated in the suspension thread they're the uprated ones will last,i paid £85 for the pair last year.
 
Howdy folks!

Anyone fitted sachs front shocks (300032)
Just recieved one and looks brand new, however it seems a little odd as you can pull it out (silver ram) by hand quite easy and then it slowly retracts home itself (as far as i know these are oil shocks).
All listings/pictures show the shock assembly with the ram at its fully home position (fully retracted) with no retaining rod which if its how they are the rod would not be required as the ram "goes home on its own"?

Cheers

Howey
 
Hello
This is getting me confused.
In some posts, here and on the net, there are opposing views on the SE and Sport springs/dampers, regarding lenghts and stiffness.
I read that the Bilstein B4 are good enough and a bit stiffier than OEM. Lots of people are lauding Spidan springs others aren't.
confusing too: Supplex aren't different between SE and Sport (??)
I am comtemplating renewing the whole set on my FSI. So, I went on different sites and found only one with everything I would need. Springs, dampers and bearings kit would be Bilstein. Rear bump stop/dust cover kit from SKF, front from Bilstein.
Price split between shops comes at £358, from one shop £387.
After the suspension overhaul, I am planning to get H&R ARB front and rear. I have other mods, but it will be for another post.
What you guys are thinking about the plan so far?
Thank you very much
 
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Stiffness of the springs very much depends on the engine and specifics of the car. OSS adds something like 35kg, and much of that is towards the rear of the car, so the weight requirement goes up. TDIs weigh more over the front axle, so need stronger springs there.
Some Spidans can push the front of the car up, and availability has been seen to be spotty, with others expecting an even softer ride than before; for reasons explained previously, I don't personally think that's a good idea and the options are actually limited anyway.
B4s are a good compromise with apparently decent longevity and a ride that is similar to stock. B3s are considered to be the natural partner to B4s.
If you want better ("sportier") damping, then B6 is the way to go; B8s are similar but with a shorter piston and so set up for a significant drop.
The ARBs are great. No sideways roll any more, gravity pushes you sideways. I would consider changing anything and everything at close to the same time: make sure you mark the position of the aggregatenträger / front subframe when you drop it to put the ARB in and make sure you use the correct stretch bolts when refitting. I run B8 + Eibach + ARB + Superpro + light 15" and 195/50. It's a go-kart.
I would strongly recommend an alignment afterwards; the subframe will limit the amount of movement you have and there's lots of information about this over on the German forum, including ways to get a PQ25 front axle to fit, but it's convoluted and difficult and you'd need a pretty dedicated garage to want to do it for you.

For the front top mount bearings, I would not go Bilstein but stay VAG with 6Q0 412 331B . That's a HD mount and should last well. I would also replace the droplinks at the same time with Meyle HD ones.
For the ARBs you can also use the Superpro bushes, they work very well indeed. I also happen to have a set of rear axle bushes from them for fitting when I'm feeling bored and want to take the rear axle off - I haven't got around to it but I'm reliably informed they also help.

Those are my thoughts, anyway :)

- Bret
 
Hi Brett
Thanks for the swift answer.
As you can read on my signature, I have a -25mm set up on my 1.4SE and if I had the knowledge then, I wouldn't have done it. Far too harch for the UK roads. So I don't want to do the same on the FSI.
I was hesitating between B4 and B6 but I read earlier the order of stiffness and chose the B4 (stiffer than the OEM but still soft enough) It could be a mistake but who knows(?!), they may suit my driving. Furthermore, the B6 are quite dearer than the B4.
The H&R ARBs are really making a difference. Even after 19 years, I have a better drive than a lot of other cars, bigger newer cars. Of course, when I will install them (more likely my preferred garage), I will also change the drop links
About the springs, I have read the audi.7zap.com page and there are a lot of different references. To find the right ones, there is color dots on the originals. I got the car after a lot of different people fiddled with it and I can't be sure if the springs are the original on the car. So I had to make a choice.
About the front top bearings, is the 6Q0 412 331B suitable for a Sport suspension? The one I chose is. And cheaper.

Thanks for all the advices.
 
.... I got the car after a lot of different people fiddled with it and I can't be sure if the springs are the original on the car. So I had to make a choice. ......

Why not ask your local Audi what springs you should have, they may be helpful.

Andy
 
Hi @Captain059 ,

>About the springs, I have read the audi.7zap.com page and there are a lot of different references. To find the right ones, there is color dots on the >originals....

Thanks for all the advices.

You can work out which dot pattern *should* be on your original springs as installed originally from the weight range code on your build options sticker - it is a 3 digit code beginning with L and a 2-digit number ; mine on an 04 1.4Tdi SE non OSS with no significant options is L50. This is referred to as option PR-L50 in the longer format.

Then you go to https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a2/a2/2003-248/4/411-411010/

Find the PR-Lxx code in the list of front springs. This then leads you to the corresponding colour dot pattern and part code (6Q0xxxxxx or 8Z0xxxxxx) that the vehicle was built with.
In my case, (PR-) L50 transcribes as 8Z0 411 105 AL.
 
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