FSi buying help

delta

Member
Well after many happy years on my 75 TDi I’m looking at getting an FSi mainly for ULEZ reasons.
I’ve got a car lined up to look at which has had a misfire sorted but still an eml light on.
It has the codes P1028 and P1292.
It’s had new high pressure fuel pump, coil packs, plugs, thermostat housing and def pipe fitted.
I’m told it could be carbon build up which is affecting the intake manifold. Apparently the rod still moves by hand and is not broken.
The other code could possibly be a coolant sensor or on the housing itself?
What else should I be looking out for on one of these FSi models?

Much appreciated
 
Hi @delta
Was the scan done with VCDS, or generic reader?
You'll probably need to remove the inlet manifold for cleaning. The rod movement by hand is not very meaningful.
Factor this into your offer.
Once the manifold is clean, and the flap free to move, you can either get it back to OEM functionality (FSI) or go the ProBoost route (FI).
A well fettled FSI, in OEM trim, is a joy, especially when you hit 3000 rpm away from the lights!
Mac.

1.6 FSI Sport, 2004.
 
Will check out for coolant leaks. Anywhere in particular that is a common area?

A good question, not sure what type of reader, will ask.
I’m guessing not a big job to remove the intake manifold?
Is it something that then would need a professional clean?
Any idea of ballpark cost?
Thanks
 
It's not a cheap job. I'm sure you'll get a few estimates from those who've had it carried out by A2 experienced garages. Looking at hundreds I think.
Mac.
 
If your prepared to take the time, most stuff is achievable with loads of help on here. A reasonable toolkit and small bendy hands.
It is worthwhile as mine feels like a hot hatch now the inlet manifold and coolant leaks sorted out.
Fsi is a great car, but given its age needs a little care taken
 
I applaud anyone that takes on an FSI, I'm still keen to restore ours. One of my favourite project threads is by @B4Andra who spent a lot of time and money yet failed to achieve a positive outcome (to the best of my knowledge). Some FSI will be much easier than this...
 
@A2Steve Steve with all the respect that I have for you and you know that; you break A2s while helping many others out including me. So your supply of parts is plentiful; maybe.

If you haven't got a second car to use while the FSI spends most of its time resting on jack stands waiting for parts then you are stuck. Really stuck because most stuff that breaks on the 1.6 are expensive and fiddly to replace.

I will list some of the nuisances that make the 1.6 far from a dependable daily driving partner:

1. Cannot read the dipstick. Either it is broken off or unreadable. Well, we still got the oil level sensor. Wait that is broken too. Even if it is on the 3rd genuine sensor from Audi's latest revision. Half an hour later of back and forth with the dipstick you still can't decide whether to top up or not.

2. You try to replace the oil filter. Wait, I have to take of the sump funnel first but before that, I have to lick my elbow. And if you are unlucky and you have the all plastic one, oh dear. You have to wait until the replacement arrives with the correct dipstick for your car because it will definitely break of at some point. So you try and do an oil change and you are left with an undrivable car.

3. Well, the plumbing system is entirely made of plastic in which the coolant can rise up to 105 degrees Celcius. At some point the cooling system pipework becomes like a sieve. There is no good way of finding the leak. The only way is to replace everything with better hoses, better clips and NEW plastic parts because it is a chain. The next weakest link will break. Trust me. Or you can mold them and cast them in aluminium (heck isn't everything supposed to be Al in the A2 anyway) but I suppose a foundry and a CNC mill are not in your toolbox.

4. You get a dash warning but wait, so it happens that it is on a hot day. Well you cannot expect the dash screen to work on a hot day do you? So you have to guess from the colour of the warning what the error is and wager whether you are actually losing oil pressure or coolant or most likely both.

5. I will not mention the interior because it does not serve in any way the mobility capability; which is what an automobile's primary function is supposed to be. I will also not mention other major issues that may or may not be parts of your daily struggle.

Please don't take the above notes as being a rant. They are not. They are the basic ingredients to the frustration cake that the 1.6 is. We still got ours but we find ourselves sharing the other car more often than not. The A2 is on jack stands at the moment waiting for a brake job and 2 weeks before that is was also on jack stands for CV joints. This is basic maintenance though. Pretty easy to do. I take it as a challenge now just to see how far this will go.

The 1.6 definitely exceeded my expectations when I first took it up. Not too sure of everyone else's expectations though.

Evros
 
Same here @A2Steve had mine 18 months, and enjoy it very much. Goes very well, even with OEM (Full Fat FSI) ECU.
I guess us happy FSI bunnies just get on with it,
Being fair, it's only done 52.000 mls, so, unlike me, it's still in the first flush!
Mac.
 
Hi @delta,

Meant to reply yesterday but ran out of time.

As commented P1028 seems to have little to do with an A2 FSI beyond indicating a fault on the inlet manifold. Most likely the common flap problem, hours of reading on here if inclined, but you are looking at say the cost 3 to 4 hours labour to strip and clean and new parts and gaskets, say a little over £100 for parts, leading to quite a big bill, > £500. Get an estimate. Unless you intend to do the work yourself???? Long term is there is the Pro Boost option.

The other fault code indicates a new temperature sensor, quite low cost but at least an hour's labour cost.

Things to look out for? As mentioned coolant leaks but I will add inspect the wishbones, may be the later pressed rather than forged.


Now the important bit. What is the asking price (and mileage)? To be honest with high pressure, misfire gremlins, death pipe allegedly sorted and flap issues to sort this FSI sounds to have been a poorly boy, I would be very suspicious. Assuming a standard stock car my offer would be £400, my default price for a FSI with issues, anything approaching a thousand over priced and over a thousand walk away. Anybody agree? Unless anything special such as low mileage look for something better.

I am happy FSI owner with a relatively problem free car (touch wood), maybe lucky, but as you may be aware FSIs are notorious for rapidly reducing your bank balance, but a pleasure to drive when in good health.

Andy
 
Another issue with the FSI is it MUST ONLY be run on the super unleaded premium grades of fuel. The longer the car has run on other fuel the far greater the chances of inheriting running issues. Many people buy a "cheap runabout" and do not want to buy the more expensive fuel, sometimes this could also be through lack of knowledge. Does the label inside a FSI filler flap clearly state not to use standard fuel? It can get annoying and expensive repairing someone else's "thrift" Good luck with your FSI and as others stated a sorted one is a pure delight.
 
Another issue with the FSI is it MUST ONLY be run on the super unleaded premium grades of fuel. The longer the car has run on other fuel the far greater the chances of inheriting running issues. Many people buy a "cheap runabout" and do not want to buy the more expensive fuel, sometimes this could also be through lack of knowledge. Does the label inside a FSI filler flap clearly state not to use standard fuel? It can get annoying and expensive repairing someone else's "thrift" Good luck with your FSI and as others stated a sorted one is a pure delight.
Quite the opposite, one embarrassingly grubby FSI fuel filap label.

image.jpeg


Andy
 
Is the 95 meant to be removed by the dealer so only 98 on the FSI? What does the owners handbook state?
 
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