FSI carbon buildup

Jeetesh said:
The issues with the FSI (to my understanding) is that because it’s direct rather than port injection, fuel additives that normally clean/reduce this from happening don’t reach the valves hence burnt oil causing the carbon buildup over time.

This is a widespread problem with direct injection engines and as mentioned partially solved with turbocharging. This isn’t something I’m planning on doing to my FSI so need to look at cleaning/preventative measures.
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Use the highest quality oil and fuel. Build up of crap in the inlet manifold and flaps is primarily caused by the recirculation of exhaust gases, (EGR), especially the soot and other particulates. This combines with volatile compounds from the crankcase breather, (PCV), and hits the cool of the incoming air, in the manifold, where it solidifies.
High quality oil, (and annual changes), will minimise the release of volatile compounds from the PCV system, while high quality fuel will give the cleanest burn, and minimum soot and particulates.
Mac.
 
Crgwal said:
Hi,

Thanks for the replies.

I have had the car for just over two years. It was a bit of a nightmare car but it's history was that it was at least a serviced car. Tbh the fastest way to see its history is my cars Instagram. Yeah I have one yes it's all for fun. @Project_audi_a2.

I know exactly the lock you're talking about on the manifold. This was locked in place on reinstalling the manifold. The work was done by someone else on the formus that I trust and he has already successfully done this job before on his own and other FSI's.

I have a full version of the vcds software myself, I have recently ran a scan with my only problems left to fix being my position flaps on the climate control.

What is this adaption run you are talking about? This is new information.

My car does still have the odd audible missfire too. As for the power it's always just felt off to me, it is now just rather obviously bad. It feels like the engine is straining and maybe even louder than normal when trying to get from 30 to 70 mph.

Any and all advice is as ever very much appreciated.

Edit: it's had all its belts a timing redone a few months ago. It was out by nearly two teeth. We did at one point get bad lifter sounds coming from the car. Weirdly only on the very day before it got its timing belt changed. This was done in Audi Glasgow.
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My feeling is to get the timing belt fitting checked out by a good VAG independant. Something is wrong with the basic running of the engine.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
My feeling is to get the timing belt fitting checked out by a good VAG independant. Something is wrong with the basic running of the engine.
Mac.
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Hello,

Thank you for your reply.

This is where I got my timing belt done. I paid a premium on this because I wanted it done correctly. It was replaced at a good VAG independent garage. Prestige Cars Glasgow to be exact. I had a camshaft error up until after we redid the timing. At a cost of over £700 where we did all belts on the car with audi parts. I would like to believe this is not where the issues lies.
 
I’ve never had any luck with getting FSI issues sorted at anywhere other than WOM. They are lovely engines when running properly but they need an expert, a real expert. In my opinion.
I live in Aberdeen and I take mine to WOM.
If anyone knows a garage nearer Glasgow I’m sure they’ll let you know but WOM are the only one for me.
A lot of folk know the Tdi but the FSI is different to any other engine out there. Brilliant when running properly though
 
Crgwal said:
Hello,

Thank you for your reply.

This is where I got my timing belt done. I paid a premium on this because I wanted it done correctly. It was replaced at a good VAG independent garage. Prestige Cars Glasgow to be exact. I had a camshaft error up until after we redid the timing. At a cost of over £700 where we did all belts on the car with audi parts. I would like to believe this is not where the issues lies.
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I'd worry that they released the car, with no comment. Maybe they didn't do a road test.
I have recently changed my VAG independant, as the previous one was very good, but tended to do what was asked for very well, but didn't see the car as a whole. Same with the TT, new indie came up with list of minor things needing preventative action, such as brake lines showing surface corrosion, which needed cleaning and painting to prevent eventual MoT failure. Garages that service mainly new cars don't have the mechanical sympathy and general experience that older cars need to keep them in fine fettle.
When a car's just not right, but there's no obvious reason why, you need someone to who understands how engines work, and the experience to fix them when they don't.
Mac.
 
An FSI when running properly is a lovely engine. A really revvy, thing, reminds me of Alfas.
I hope you get yours sorted.
One I bought recently had a few issues at 120k, failed MOT on emissions and the previous owner had deleted the EML. it lacked oomph and didn’t rev well.
The MOT tester had marked it down as “obviously needs at new catalytic converter”. The main problems were a failed flap actuator and a temp sensor which read -20C so it was massively overfuelling.
Now it runs beautifully. WOM found the problems and they were relatively easily and inexpensive to fix. A catalyst would have been ~ £400-700….
 
George Hogg said:
An FSI when running properly is a lovely engine. A really revvy, thing, reminds me of Alfas.
I hope you get yours sorted.
One I bought recently had a few issues at 120k, failed MOT on emissions and the previous owner had deleted the EML. it lacked oomph and didn’t rev well.
The MOT tester had marked it down as “obviously needs at new catalytic converter”. The main problems were a failed flap actuator and a temp sensor which read -20C so it was massively overfuelling.
Now it runs beautifully. WOM found the problems and they were relatively easily and inexpensive to fix. A catalyst would have been ~ £400-700….
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... and even at £400 - 700 would not have fixed it🤔
I do like the Alfa comment, not quite a Busso, but close. I love mine too.
Mac.
 
FSIs are like that, I’ve got three on the road and one which I can’t decide is for spares or a project. I bought it in Wakes and then drove to Aberdeen via Kings Lynn without any issues….
 
PlasticMac said:
@Crgwal it will be helpful for the future, if you were to start a new thread, with a link to this one.
Mac.
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Thanks that makes sense. I am going to create a thread about FSI power. I just did some timed tests on the acceleration. Maybe I can ask some fellow fsi owners to do the same. For this could be all in my head. Thank you.
 
Crgwal said:
Thanks that makes sense. I am going to create a thread about FSI power. I just did some timed tests on the acceleration. Maybe I can ask some fellow fsi owners to do the same. For this could be all in my head. Thank you.
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OK, let us know your check/reference points, and I'll give it a whirl. See you in the new thread.
Mac.
 
Some helpful posts, Pre
PlasticMac said:
I'd worry that they released the car, with no comment. Maybe they didn't do a road test.
I have recently changed my VAG independant, as the previous one was very good, but tended to do what was asked for very well, but didn't see the car as a whole. Same with the TT, new indie came up with list of minor things needing preventative action, such as brake lines showing surface corrosion, which needed cleaning and painting to prevent eventual MoT failure. Garages that service mainly new cars don't have the mechanical sympathy and general experience that older cars need to keep them in fine fettle.
When a car's just not right, but there's no obvious reason why, you need someone to who understands how engines work, and the experience to fix them when they don't.
Mac.
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Very fair point, I have actually been doing all my work with a fellow forum user on my car. For the belt we decided to use a dealership. For a few reasons some personal. This garage (Prestige Cars Specialists) actually somewhat understood that the car was something different. They adopted that car for three weeks. It was sent away by them to a "specialist" who ran a high pressure smoke test on it as their normal equipment couldnt diagnose a weird jumping rev pattern. They sorted this all for one hours laber so I was very thankful. They also invited me back after a couple weeks so they could run some further tests on the MAF sensor as they got readings that didnt match their books. Ever when they swapped out a second MAF sensor against it but thats a different story.

Could someone be so kind as to post the compression values for the cylinders? I will get this looked into before moving forward with the possibility of dirty valves/carbon build up.

Thanks again some great information being posted.

Craig
 
Crgwal said:
.......

Could someone be so kind as to post the compression values for the cylinders? I will get this looked into before moving forward with the possibility of dirty valves/carbon build up.
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Here...

A Polo that won't rust :)

Also today, I bought an A4 B5 climate control unit to liberate the buttons from. When you look through the A2 climate control panels that are for sale there's so many with the buttons all rubbed away to nothing, but all the A4 ones, the buttons are clear. So while I could get an A2 one with just...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net

Also look a few posts above.

In fact the whole thread is a good read, but not a happy ending.

I remember there are guidelines for doing compression tests but cannot off the top of my head remember detail.

Andy
 
PlasticMac said:
Use the highest quality oil and fuel. Build up of crap in the inlet manifold and flaps is primarily caused by the recirculation of exhaust gases, (EGR), especially the soot and other particulates. This combines with volatile compounds from the crankcase breather, (PCV), and hits the cool of the incoming air, in the manifold, where it solidifies.
High quality oil, (and annual changes), will minimise the release of volatile compounds from the PCV system, while high quality fuel will give the cleanest burn, and minimum soot and particulates.
Mac.
Click to expand...

Something a lot of people don't agree with sadly as you will have witnessed yourself. I always use the highest quality oil and fuel and had to replace my new inlet manifold i bought from Audi that was only 3 years old, broken plastic on the manifold £430 down the drain plus fitting! My best advice to anyone attempting to buy the lower manifold from Audi is don't bother!! They're all old stock and plastics are brittle. The positive to the story was the lower inlet manifold after 30K miles had just a very slight very thin coating of oily carbon that easily wiped of with light finger pressure. It would still be in perfect condition after 100K miles on the diet of oil and fuel i feed it. Moral of the story to the doubters, don't scrimp on oil and fuel as PlasticMac says, always buy the best and never use the oil from Audi since their own oil caused many problems over time with lower inlet manifolds long before they reached 70k miles. If you're doing lots of local mileage change very 5K max if combined with motorway work 7k, just motorway mileage 10k max. All these long life service schedules just exacerbates the problem.
 
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