FSI issues

PlasticMac said:
What crank sensor did you fit, genuine VAG, or aftermarket?
Check connector, is the cable in good condition, are the pins clean and aligned?
You need to be sure it is actually connected, as in continuity of each cable, the ECU.
Edit: I notice you say "... turns a couple of times..."
Does it really spin, or does it just about turn over as in the batter is very nearly flat?
Log Engine Group 001, you'll see engine speed, from the ECU. Is the engine speed registering, as you crank the engine?
Mac.
Click to expand...
I fitted a febi, not quite a
the cheapest but £25 or so from autodoc. I have it on jump leads to another running car but still barely turns a few times very slowly and dead. I don't know if it turns over enough to get a reading on vcds, tried to graph it but nothing
 
9ballpaul said:
I fitted a febi, not quite a
the cheapest but £25 or so from autodoc. I have it on jump leads to another running car but still barely turns a few times very slowly and dead. I don't know if it turns over enough to get a reading on vcds, tried to graph it but nothing
Click to expand...
I think you need to get it spinning properly. That needs a fully charged battery, in good condition, and fitted direct to the car.
The current drawn by the starter is very high, and jump lead grips will not handle it.
Mac.
 
Have you cleaned the engine earth to the body, behind the passenger headlamp and under the aircon pipes? If that's oxided up it won't help the starter turn the engine over either.
 
PlasticMac said:
I think you need to get it spinning properly. That needs a fully charged battery, in good condition, and fitted direct to the car.
The current drawn by the starter is very high, and jump lead grips will not handle it.
Mac.
Click to expand...
Different battery in now and turns over as would expect, no movement in the needle or reading from g28 on vcds and now have the g28 no signal fault code, I guess it's wiring check from the ECU now then
 
9ballpaul said:
Different battery in now and turns over as would expect, no movement in the needle or reading from g28 on vcds and now have the g28 no signal fault code, I guess it's wiring check from the ECU now then
Click to expand...
I belled out the wiring between the ECU and sensor socket and found no continuity on the terminal 99 - 5V connection in engine wiring harness, i gave up for the evening but will check the D141 to surrounding components, maybe a break somewhere along...
1714166213762.png
 
The pin 99 is the 5 volt supply to the ECU, so probably OK, or there'd be bigger problems. The same 5 volts supply goes to the G28, and several other sensors.
You need to find out if thar supply is only missing from the G28, or from others too. The cam sensor, G40 is one such sensor, so can you check that there is 5 volts to the cam sensor connector, just to see if the missing supply is only for the G28.
Mac
 
9ballpaul said:
I belled out the wiring between the ECU and sensor socket and found no continuity on the terminal 99 - 5V connection in engine wiring harness, i gave up for the evening but will check the D141 to surrounding components, maybe a break somewhere along...
View attachment 122992
Click to expand...
unfortunately I haven't got anyway further along, the previous no continuity from terminal 99 was down to a dodgy test lead, binned that and tested all from the G28 connector again, they're all .5ohm or so no issue there. I took readings on the terminals of original sensor and new one that is fitted they read the same: 1-2 open, 1-3 open, 2-3 40ohm. not sure what else could be the issue with it? I don't think it can be positioned incorrectly if the bolt is screwed in fully
 
9ballpaul said:
unfortunately I haven't got anyway further along, the previous no continuity from terminal 99 was down to a dodgy test lead, binned that and tested all from the G28 connector again, they're all .5ohm or so no issue there. I took readings on the terminals of original sensor and new one that is fitted they read the same: 1-2 open, 1-3 open, 2-3 40ohm. not sure what else could be the issue with it? I don't think it can be positioned incorrectly if the bolt is screwed in fully
Click to expand...
Have you checked that 5 volts is present at the G28 connector, (ignition on)?
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
Have you checked that 5 volts is present at the G28 connector, (ignition on)?
Mac.
Click to expand...
yeah, I have 5v at terminals 1-ground & 2-ground with ignition on. There must be something i'm missing this must be a red herring, I checked all fuses are fine, I've looked back over old VCDS logs and it has never been an issue before, I googled about issues with G28s with other engines, not sure where to go with it next aside from re-checking its seated correctly then trying to find a way to manipulate the signal to the ECU... found some info related to modifying ground wiring to a G28 on a TDI , could try that next...
1714424219281.png
 
9ballpaul said:
The car is currently off the road on axle stands, I've stripped the upper manifold parts. I only get a couple of hours in a week if I'm lucky to work on things so this will be drawn out for a few weeks till its sorted. Next thing to do is undo the breather pipe from below and the rest of the manifold bolts and see where I am from there.
without this group I would probably of set fire to the car in a rage years ago so thanks all....
Click to expand...
We are very lucky to have this resource.
 
PlasticMac said:
I'm wondering about the dash cluster. Run a scan on Instruments Controller perhaps?
Mac.
Click to expand...
Thinking about the immobiliser. Doesn't fire, you've not mentioned smell of petrol, so, maybe none, so the immo could be stopping the engine from starting. The immo is in the cluster, see below.
Check out Instruments, Groups 22 to 25 to see what the immobiliser is doing.

Screenshot 2024-04-30 14.16.37.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top