Fuel filter on 1.4 TDi

spartacus 68

spartacus 68

Member
I read a couple of posts that this was a pig of a job before attempting it. Suffice to say I should have left it. It's located near the rear N/S wheel behind a metal heat guard. 3x 10mm flat nuts (one of which sheared off). Also a star-bit self-tapper screw (sill) to remove the heat guard completely.

My wife's got an earler 52-plate model, so it's not a filter element, it's a sealed fuel filter unit. It's totally inaccessible. Even with the rear of the car jacked up, axle stands for security - there's very little room for manouvre.

The fuel filter is held in place with a 10mm hex nut (metal strap) which can be undone to release it from the support cradle. The cradle itself can now be removed (13mm and 10mm nuts). Even with this off - the fuel filter will not drop sufficiently. You'll need fuel/brake pipe clamps to stop diesel flow. I had visions of 30 litres of diesel pouring on the drive so reassembled in reverse.

This job is only possible with ramps or a pit. Bit gutted as I don't like to be beaten on a job.:( I'll book this one into the garage.

The rest of the service went okay, although the A2 is a funny car to work on. Now I've done it once - it should be straight forward in the future.:)
 
Did this job recently. I've got the same filter as you.

If you disconnect the fuel-in and the fuel-out hoses at their respective metal pipe connections then the filter will immediately become far more accessible. To do this, simply squeeze and pull the relevant plastic quick release hose connections at the pipes to relinquish them. Only a very small amount of diesel will dribble out, have a basin under there.

Get your hose-clip pliers out to transfer the hoses onto the new filter and then reconnect the two quick connectors onto the metal pipes, making sure they 'click' on. At this point, if you are following me, you will have two filters (old and new) semi-connected to the vehicle. Make a note of circlip routing as it looks when connected on to the old filter, before removing the associated regulator hosing and replacing this onto the new filter.

Now just refit the cradle and you're done.

Fuel-in and -out hoses require WD40 or other lubricant as they tend to be a bit stiff to pull off. Mark the fuel hoses before you start and while they are still connected with some insulation tape or something so that you remember which hose goes on which pipe because you must not interchange the connections from their original setting. You don't need fuel hose clamps as the fuel in the tank will not escape during this job. But you will need hose clip pliers.

Method of raising the car: Reversed onto simple DIY metal car-ramps that you can pick up for about £20 and use in conjunction with wheel chocks.

If you are aware of and are competent with all the relevant safety requirements then I would recommend that you give it another go because I had fully serviced my A2 and was ready to give up at this point as well, before asking Spike/Skipton lots of questions and finally managing to do it. It's a lot quicker when you get good advice.

Good luck if you have another bash. If you require the pertinent Workshop Manual excerpt, then please send me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send it as an attachment.

Martin.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Martin for the VAG instructions. Looks straight forward now. I did think the fuel connectors were quick release - but didn't want to try in case it was like a scene from the Poideon Adventure!:eek:

I'll keep you posted. Weather permitting - I'll be back under the A2 this weekend.
 
thespringfield said:
Good luck if you have another bash. If you require the pertinent Workshop Manual excerpt, then please send me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send it as an attachment.

Martin.
Click to expand...

Been busy - but finally got around to this job today. 1 hour all in - plus my hand was stinking of diesel (ran out of latex gloves). Managed just fine - thanks for the instructions.:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top