Gearbox/Clutch issue looking for thoughts

Hi fellas,

Another update - fresh gear box oil old stuff looked like a caramel/chocolate soup - probably good idea to do gearbox oil if it hasn't been changed as most aren't i am guessing.

Will get a clutch kit plus other bits to go with it to get it to tip top shape @depronman could you advise what i along with the kit to ensure everything is tip top? Then will need to find a garage to fit them for a full refurb of the clutch part of gearbox - gearbox itself seems totally fine and short drive i had (it is stuck in gear now) gearbox felt nice and smooth.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/...fd87a169ad4428899db4210db2dd4a709d5535&000069 for DMF/Clutch - it seems to only have 1 bearing though - i assume i need other bits as well.

any idea how long a job it is not to get ripped off too bad? mind my bottom sound insulation is MIA so access is pretty easy?

At the moment i can change gear while engine is off but with engine on it is stuck and wont go in gear at all - with clutch all the way in if i try to push it in gear with engine running car actually wants to move forward (first/second/third etc.) so there is some engine engagement. Pumping clutch to make it better must've just been luck/coincidence previously as it does jack now.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/a2-tdi-clutch-replacement.36897/page-2 - great thread will have to do some more research and grab a kit.

Wondering how is Valeo from Euro car parts? https://www.eurocarparts.com/clutch-kit they have tranmech and Valeo. They've got good discounts currently so quite tempting - maybe there are some higher spec parts i could fit as would be nice to get car re-mapped at some point as well. brings clutch DMF (Valeo) kit and LUK release bearing (though kit seems to have the bearing) to 150£ only.
 
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Hi fellas,

Another update - fresh gear box oil old stuff looked like a caramel/chocolate soup - probably good idea to do gearbox oil if it hasn't been changed as most aren't i am guessing.

Will get a clutch kit plus other bits to go with it to get it to tip top shape @depronman could you advise what i along with the kit to ensure everything is tip top? Then will need to find a garage to fit them for a full refurb of the clutch part of gearbox - gearbox itself seems totally fine and short drive i had (it is stuck in gear now) gearbox felt nice and smooth.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/...fd87a169ad4428899db4210db2dd4a709d5535&000069 for DMF/Clutch - it seems to only have 1 bearing though - i assume i need other bits as well.

any idea how long a job it is not to get ripped off too bad? mind my bottom sound insulation is MIA so access is pretty easy?

At the moment i can change gear while engine is off but with engine on it is stuck and wont go in gear at all - with clutch all the way in if i try to push it in gear with engine running car actually wants to move forward (first/second/third etc.) so there is some engine engagement. Pumping clutch to make it better must've just been luck/coincidence previously as it does jack now.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/a2-tdi-clutch-replacement.36897/page-2 - great thread will have to do some more research and grab a kit.

Wondering how is Valeo from Euro car parts? https://www.eurocarparts.com/clutch-kit they have tranmech and Valeo. They've got good discounts currently so quite tempting - maybe there are some higher spec parts i could fit as would be nice to get car re-mapped at some point as well. brings clutch DMF (Valeo) kit and LUK release bearing (though kit seems to have the bearing) to 150£ only.
You need an LUK clutch kit, this gets you the spinner plate, cover and release bearing, on top of this you need the Top Hat (gearbox seal, but looks like a top hat), cross arm (the arm that the release bearing fits into), pivot bolt and spring retaining clip. The last three items are likely Audi only but w are cheap. around £20 all in
You can get an LUK clutch kit on ebay ex germany for around £140 delivered, and they are WAY better than Valeo and one of the two OEM clutches that Audi fitted from new

Cheers,
 
You need an LUK clutch kit, this gets you the spinner plate, cover and release bearing, on top of this you need the Top Hat (gearbox seal, but looks like a top hat), cross arm (the arm that the release bearing fits into), pivot bolt and spring retaining clip. The last three items are likely Audi only but w are cheap. around £20 all in
You can get an LUK clutch kit on ebay ex germany for around £140 delivered, and they are WAY better than Valeo and one of the two OEM clutches that Audi fitted from new

Cheers,

Cheers - going to look up the parts i need on elsa as struggling with retailers.

I'll go for DMF with Clutch i think - struggling to find rest of bits so will find part numbers etc. later unless anyone has links/numbers from near memory.

Still not sure on a mechanic but will figure something out - will try local suspects.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/a2-1-4-tdi-90ps-atl-clutch-and-dmf-change.21338/ - life saver thread. was debating taking cheapo kit and using that until i have space to do repairs myself and have it last few years until then but opting towards the LUK kit with all the support bits and bearings as well to get it all nice and sorted and not need to worry about spinning tyres.

just a quick update - got what i think are most parts i need and waiting for delivery. will try and get some pictures when i actually go dismember the old girl.
 
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I've got most parts inbound - now i don't have any spare bolts or nuts for the car - in the thread it says i might need to replace driveshaft attachment bolt? - https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...ved-a-o-s-driveshaft-before.24506/post-192559

Could anyone advise the part number by any chance? Rather get a couple just in case, or am i off track with this?

Parts are slowly turning up and scheduled for tomorrow to get the gearbox out, guess i will know once it is apart anyway.
 
you should not need them as you will not be removing the drive shafts from the hubs

Sweet thank you for clarifying as was unsure if it was a bit that bolts onto the drive shaft.

Will try and take some pictures for future reference.

Righto - taking it apart was fairly straight forward other than finding all 3 bolts for gear selector cable holder/bracket that is screwed onto gearbox - it is quite obstructed by electricals once moved out of the way was fine.
Second ball ache was getting off the gear selector arm (big metal bit that gear selector cables move to select gears). spent good 30min wrestling it off the teethed shaft bloody hell next time i tackle something like this i'll get a puller.

Otherwise it is pretty nice and easy just does take it's time - found it odd starter motor cogs had no lubricant on there it was metal on metal for the cog, was replaced about 30k miles back and the area was full of metal dust, there were few other bits that made me think WTF taking it apart but i do not recall those right this moment.
 
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Righto update time.

Peeled the gearbox off and it was an absolute pig - it was proper stuck driveshaft or something but did get it on and bolted new dmf/clutch on but gearbox is still off the car as cannot undo top hat bolts will have to drill them out or something - shall tackle that tomorrow.

Will also scan the invoice for DMF/Clutch that was allegedly done 25k miles away for a shoutout to the garage - it was not done from what i can tell. the DMF was in pieces with metal spirals all over the clutch case and oil/guff accumulation was also impressive on the inside - spent good hour cleaning that out. the inside plate was worn near to the bolts and getting to the gearbox and getting it off it was sure as hell was not removed anytime recently - date stamp for the clutch is 2002 so if it was done it must've spent 14 years in a warehouse at least... actual clutch was also shot - pictures to follow it is carnage.

Bit pissed off.
 
And now you understand why I do all my own mechanical repairs as I then know it was done and done right
There are a few good honest garages around but finding them is not easy


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understood that before as well however charging a thousand quid and quite obviously not even touching the clutch/gearbox is on a new lever.

On the bright side the clutch and DMF were a quality make (original LuK 150k miles near exactly RiP). New one probably wont last as generously.

From invoices previous owner had a ton of work done at that garage as well, probably a good 10k spent in total... will dig up the invoices and see if i can get in touch.

anyone planning to tackle this as long as the bloody gearbox is not stuck in the dmf/clutch (took us good 3 hours to wiggle it out, guess explains car moving when clutch was disengaged) job is pretty easy takes time but with a mate a jack and a block of wood it is pretty easy (hell we ended up just lowering the gearbox holding it by hand as it really is about 25-30kg with oil).

Got top hat bolts stripped so will have to drill them out or something - seemed to be extremely brittle and the teeth just went with barely any torque. (1 came out) presumably it is due to 15 years of oil grime and heat...

As someone mentioned in regards to little bolt that holds clutch arm (dinky with plastic cap)- it does appear to be perfectly fine though i'll replace it anyway as @CreweAudi sent me one for a very reasonable price. will have a spare one so if anyone needs one give me or creweaudi a shout.

i think that's it for now pictures yet to be pictured, would expect to have her back together later today.
 
I've given up - could not get the damn gear box to clear and get in place with the angle needed would just slip off my car jack...

Guess will look for a mobile mechanic with the tools locally to pop around - no idea how some of you guys manage it unless you have the gearbox/engine jack? just couldn't wiggle it in there... with the slab of wood etc.

Maybe I am missing something - no idea. can see how it'd be easier with a proper gearbox jack though but i can't get the diff to clear the clutch/engine assembly and jack it in maneuvering it there... I'm proper sore :D
 
drop the oil from the box and remove the drivers side drive shaft flange, there is a single hex or spline or torx screw hold it in place. It is possible to get the box in with the flange in place, but it is MUCH easier with the flange removed. Its easy to replace it once the box is in place

Cheers,
Paul
 
Thanks Paul,

Will give it a whirl at some point really thinking of just getting one of the 40£ Jack adapter for gearbox as it has been a struggle with the box running away off wood block and balancing the bloody thing thought getting it off was a struggle bloody hell jacking it back up - surely that jack adapter would make life easier? Presumably I lift it with the diff facing up to clear the brace (Cross member was the name? Metal bit holding wheel bits in middle) removing the flange might give just enough space to maneuver it in.

Going to be having nightmares but still saving money even with the adapter for gearbox work considering all the hard work that was carried out on the clutch :D good experience but I do miss a garage with a hole...

Edit : Found an engine lift to use for a bit to get the bloody thing on there. Not quite as DIY a job as i thought it'd be but it's not terrible. really main issue is not having all the tools required.
 
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Got the bloody thing on - was like cheating with the engine jack, tip for anyone tackling this you do not need to clear pretty much anything when putting it back on, engine is at a pretty steep angle just slot it on the DMF/Engine bang a few bolts in then the rest onto the engine block, then do the mount 3 bolts (right of gearbox looking from front into the engine bay) and jack up gearbox to do the 2 bolts form top to hold the whole thing and sorted.

I'm sure angle was wrong for using jack to put it in place but even with right angle it definitely looks like it'd be a massive struggle to clear DMF/Clutch assembly as it is a fairly right fit.

I did remove that flange @depronman that was a top tip, makes moving it back in place a ton easier - will figure out how to put the flange back on with gearbox in place later, too happy to care right now, how hard can it be to move that diff enough back to clear it.

Got a ton of bits to bolt back but honestly rest is a cake walk.

Definitely a huge recommend for engine jack if doing a TDI 90 gearbox/clutch.
 
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Right it goes like a train and is brilliant - might be worth moving post to maintenance forum as it turned out more that.

Closing notes -
It is really easy with an engine jack to put the gearbox back in - did not figure out the angle to do with a car jack and was a massive pain in the ass. probably possible with passenger side up in the air so engine is more level at an angle.

@depronman tip to remove flange off differential made mounting gearbox back in a ton easier as well - removing the 3 bolts to tilt wheel hub with driveshaft out to fit it back in was about 9 times easier than maneuvering gearbox back in with it there.

Top hat screws were perished - had to drill them out - 2/3 just stripped with barely any torque to them seemed to have gone really brittle. Replaced with Mini bolts which work perfect. (MINI Clutch Pressure Plate Torx Bolts Screws M7x14 Set of 6 - One Cooper R50 R52) off ebay.

Rest is fairly straight forward unbolt and bolt back in bits. Spent a good hour cleaning inside of the clutch housing too as it had a silly amount of guff and shrapnel from DMF.

Bits replaced doing this:
Spring that holds clutch release fork in place - 012141741
02J141719C - Clutch release fork replaced though it was spotless other than a lil bit of grease and muck on it
02A141777B - Ball Stud though it was as new - replaced anyway as some posts people mentioned it being work out. don't really see how this would wear out unless clutch release fork is damaged/not seated correctly.
M8 x 35mm bolt used for keeping clutch from dangling about as per instructions - not sure how important this actually is - probably makes mounting gearbox easier i assume.
500044010 LUK part - clutch release bearing replaced as it was absolutely shot as well.
febi bilstein 35487 Guide Sleeve for clutch - Top Hat - was in good condition but replaced anyway, it had 150k on it doubt it'll take another 150k.

Dual Mass Flywheel DMF Kit with Clutch 417004710 LuK quite pricy but being pre-assembled was pretty easy to replace just need to mind the spacing to mount it right way on as it it will only go on one way from what i could tell - bit of a fiddle i aimed for the two bolt holes closes to each other, once a couple go in you're home (assuming it is aligned), used a jack with some rags on top the block of wood to stop it from turning engine to torque these as otherwise it would just turn the engine over...

All in all it is a pretty alright job if you have the tools - a massive headache if you don't have some of them.

JFL autos (weybridge) is the garage who did the imaginary clutch job for previous owner charging 1070£ for the work. 04/03/2017 at 125k miles. A lot of work from this garage done on car so it found it's way all the way Plymouth way now is back near London again - can see quotes for brakes near every other service too... Would highly recommend using a different garage knowing this - that or the LUK clutch somehow died 25k miles later coughing up bits all over gearbox casing...

Old clutch
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Will go have a few beers when done and go choo choo responsibly once i sort out few more mechanical issues. MPG indicated seems to be a fair bit better with fresh clutch/DMF at least indicated on the cluster.
 

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