Gearbox oil change

just remove the selector tower and pour the additive in that way.

I wouldn't say that's easy. I've just done it and detaching the cables was difficult. Then manipulating the selector tower, too. Maybe the tower can be lifted with the cables attached and nothing disturbed? Just what's wrong with using the filler plug?

David
 
It is definitely easier to lift the car and do it through the filling hole than disconnecting the cables and messing with selector tower.

@DJ 190: Nothing is wrong with using filler hole. Except you have to go under the car...
 
Filler plug is the preferred method. Once the oil is at the correct level it overflows out the filler hole. By filling through the selector YOU have to be sure that the correct amount of fluid is in the box after you fill it.
 
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Just to add some information to this thread. This is now the correct gearbox oil to be used in the diesel gearbox (previous part number has been superseded) Genuine Audi Manual Gearbox Oil 1L G060726A2 2 litres is required

David
 
Just to add some information to this thread. This is now the correct gearbox oil to be used in the diesel gearbox (previous part number has been superseded) Genuine Audi Manual Gearbox Oil 1L G060726A2 2 litres is required

David
Nice to see the oil is still specific for our little cars!
 
So how does
GL 4 75w compare to
GL4 75W/90

Cant seem to find much concrete knowledge on this?
 
The genuine VAG gearbox oil generally gives a better gear change
See Rust's comments in this thread and take a look at the link I also posted on gearbox oil viscosity


Cheers Spike
 
If you want the best gear change possible then go with Redline MT-LV: it’s slightly more viscous but with similar or superior wear protection- meaning you’ll get a better gear change.

It’s pricey though.
 
If you want the best gear change possible then go with Redline MT-LV: it’s slightly more viscous but with similar or superior wear protection- meaning you’ll get a better gear change.

It’s pricey though.
Sweet jesus it is pricey!! Think i will stick with the GL-4 75W as a already have a few litres kicking around but many thanks for the advice!
 
For those who have done the gearbox oil-change: If one doesn't have the 17mm hex-bit to fit the drain- and fill-plugs, do you think it would work to use a wheel bolt as an improvised Allen screw and turn it using a ring-Spanner? I mean the wheel bolts are 17mm with a pretty long hex-portion, so I wondered if it would be deep enough to reach all the way in to the bottom of the hex recess in the drain screw and still have enough hex protruding to get a ring spanner onto it. What do you think?
 
For those who have done the gearbox oil-change: If one doesn't have the 17mm hex-bit to fit the drain- and fill-plugs, do you think it would work to use a wheel bolt as an improvised Allen screw and turn it using a ring-Spanner? I mean the wheel bolts are 17mm with a pretty long hex-portion, so I wondered if it would be deep enough to reach all the way in to the bottom of the hex recess in the drain screw and still have enough hex protruding to get a ring spanner onto it. What do you think?
Yes i welded a 19mm bolt on to a large nut just the other week

A quick search on ebay shows them at £4.80

A have set of 6 oil drain sockets from machine mart
 
For those who have done the gearbox oil-change: If one doesn't have the 17mm hex-bit to fit the drain- and fill-plugs, do you think it would work to use a wheel bolt as an improvised Allen screw and turn it using a ring-Spanner? I mean the wheel bolts are 17mm with a pretty long hex-portion, so I wondered if it would be deep enough to reach all the way in to the bottom of the hex recess in the drain screw and still have enough hex protruding to get a ring spanner onto it. What do you think?
Do what you need to do. If you manage to get the bolt in drain plug and have enough space for spanner, go for it.
 
Another thought: Are the drain plugs completely reusable or is there a part that has to be replaced, like the seal washer on the sump plug?
 
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