Gearchange cable adjust / reset

More useful info from Mike (Skipton01)

Quick tip on the cable adjustment:

1. Use as tight a pin to lock the gearstick as you can - the tighter the pin, the better the adjustment.

2. Before you do anything else, unlock the spring retainers on the 2 cables in the engine bay. Then lock off the gearstick, then lock off the shift mechanism on the box.

3. You might well find that 2 adjustments are needed in quick succession - the first may not be adequate.

Cheers,

Mike
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WAS : TDI 75 SE 2001 (Little Tank)
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I've just gone to do this again after having some new mounts fitted and can I find the VW locking pin I bought for the gearknob? Can I **** :mad: Oh well, I'll have to go the garage in my lunch break in the week and borrow one...the very reason I bought one because it's a Sunday job :( I don't have anything else that's a good enough fit to be worth using, another reason why I bought the VW bit (it was only a couple of quid iirc).
 
Right folks, another top tip...

Don't just use a straight pin for doing this (like a drill bit), but instead make sure you use something with a bend in it or with a head, etc. Otherwise the drill bit will fall all the way through and into your centre console, as has just happened to me. :mad:
I will now have to remove my centre console to find the drill bit, meaning seats out, handbrake out, etc. Argh!!

Edit: I should be grateful for small mercies; at least the drill bit doesn't rattle as a drive around, so it can stay there until I've got the time / another reason to remove the centre console. I'm nevertheless annoyed with myself.
 
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Hi timmus,
If you remove the two (left side) plastic covers on centre console (only 1+2 screws T25) there are small holes on center console and you can take it out with a strong magnet. It will works on EU version A2, i tried :))
Cheers,
Zsolie
 
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i recently asked a very good vag indy garage to do this and they said no adjustment was needed, i have a strong vibration while stationary coming through the gearstick and the tech guy said its more likely worn gear linkage?? what do you guys think??
 
An old post but something I finally managed to do - this combined with a good greasing of the selector tower has stopped my difficulty engaging 1st and reverse (I even lost reverse for a few days) and has stopped the clattering gear stick in neutral at idle.

Thanks to Depronman for the tip. A 5mm silver steel bar from eBay for a couple of quid and ten minutes work with a hacksaw and a flat file and my tool is made. Don my nitrile gloves. Time to adjust - about 5 minutes.

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Just tried doing this, but I can’t lock the gearbox linkage (black lever under bonnet), the lever moves but it won’t lock upright. Do I need to manipulate the counterweight or something?
 
Just tried doing this, but I can’t lock the gearbox linkage (black lever under bonnet), the lever moves but it won’t lock upright. Do I need to manipulate the counterweight or something?
It needs a jiggle of the tower up and down a bit while moving the lever into position and in and out.
If you can pat your head and rub your tummy at the same time it should be a doddle ;)
 
It needs a jiggle of the tower up and down a bit while moving the lever into position and in and out.
If you can pat your head and rub your tummy at the same time it should be a doddle ;)
Thanks for that, I was hoping this would be a “no tool box job”, I just had my gloves and 5mm bar with me on a business trip, on removing the gearstick surround I see somebody has done this before as the hole is already in the rubber gasket and the top hole is a little chewed up, my bar fits nicely in the bottom hole but won’t go through the top, so this will need to wait until the weekend now so I can give that a tickle with a needle file first.
 
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