Getting the Horn (in a Derek and Clive voice), or fitting a new one..

3wheeler

3wheeler

Member
I am probably in the gang of being fed up with the weedy horn fitted as standard. I agressively assert myself on the road with a push of the airbag, and angry face and a shaking fist, only to be let down by a feeble 'peep'. That's when I decided to "Get the 'orn".
A little research on here showed a couple of ways of doing it.

  • Remove front wheels, wheelarch liners, undertray, bumper. Obtain an A6 hornset (used) for £20odd, mess around with brackets and splice wires but keep the OEM connectors, and make it look OEM when its hidden behind all the refitted trim now likely having some broken clips and lost screws.
  • Or buy a new set of OEM-level horns from Bosch for less, and fit one in 15 mins flat using the provided bracket and existing screw/bolt.
I fitted new Bosch Windhorn for less than used/scrap parts. See photos for partnumbers etc. Its the higher frequency horn you need to fit of the two. One will be left over for spares/selling on Ebay to recoup your outlay.

Here is my fitting method. You will need:

  • Electrical connectors (I chose 'Chocolate Block' ones, but there are better
  • New wires (I chose black and red colours)
  • Wire cutters and strippers
  • Electrical tape
  • Spade connectors to fit horn
  • Spade connector pliers to crimp them to the wires
  • Torx socket for single bolt fixing Brake Fluid Reservoir to inner wing bracket.
Method:
  1. Remove bonnet and set aside in the customary fashion
  2. Remove fuse number 8 (see photos)
  3. Remove single bolt fixing brake fluid reservoir to inner wing bracket below windscreen (its still adequately supported by the other fixings)
  4. Remove drivers side headlamp
  5. Cut wires that spur off the headlamp loom to the existing horn (you can't mistake them as there are only two wires)
  6. Strip the four ends of the spur to reveal the cores
  7. Splice in the new wires on one of their ends, crimp spade connectors to the other ends
  8. Mount 'orn to brake fluid container bracket and tighten screw/bolt
  9. Tape around connection to loom
  10. Refit Headlamp
  11. Refit Fuse
  12. Turn ignition to accessory/start engine
  13. Lean on horn button/Airbag and smile as the neighbours don't.
  14. Fefit bonnet.
The best bit about this way is that if any corrosion happens to the connectors or your workmanship is less than OEM, it's all easily correctable.
 

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Evening,

This is a great helpful thread that will assist many readers in the future. Although I have always gone for the bumper removal option, I do like the quick and satisfying result you’ve achieved with the minimal of work. Good on you and thanks for sharing. Such a difference with a twin tone horn setup which I need to complete on the Project EYV A2 soon.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
A point to add, I wouldn’t use crimp connectors, solder is best for longevity as my blog thread will tell you when I had to fix the faulty connections on my twin horn conversion.
 
dj_efk said:
A point to add, I wouldn’t use crimp connectors, solder is best for longevity as my blog thread will tell you when I had to fix the faulty connections on my twin horn conversion.
Click to expand...
Crimped connectors work really well 24 years on in my Reliant from factory (yes all that quality!) so if they fail, I can easily access them and redo. Solder can also fail with vibration and age, so I plumped for crimp, but to each their own, as they say! :)
 
3wheeler said:
Crimped connectors work really well 24 years on in my Reliant from factory (yes all that quality!) so if they fail, I can easily access them and redo. Solder can also fail with vibration and age, so I plumped for crimp, but to each their own, as they say! :)
Click to expand...
The two important things that make a good wire crimp are:
Good quality crimps. (Poor quality items have low copper content).
Use the crimp tool that matches the crimp. (The die in the tool must match the size and shape of the copper centre).
Crimping of wires particularly in aviation, has been the standard for many years. Certainly it was the norm when I did my apprenticeship in the sixties.
Mac
 
Fitted this to Jelly, run off the existing cable. With a bit of fishing the cable can be reached and disconnected from the standard horn.
Great upgrade, and no weedy beep!
db19c6c2f80e09ae2cdb805becf61343.jpg


Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
Jellybean said:
Fitted this to Jelly, run off the existing cable. With a bit of fishing the cable can be reached and disconnected from the standard horn.
Great upgrade, and no weedy beep!
db19c6c2f80e09ae2cdb805becf61343.jpg


Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Which, model horn is that please?
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
Is that the MX5 one?
Nautilus Stebel,Air Horns,Automotive Air Horns,12V 139Db Loud Electronic Snail Ultra Compact Dual Air Horn For Motorcycle Yacht Boat https://amzn.eu/d/09xNpwnX
Mac.
Click to expand...
Similar to this, but looks like they're lots more expensive now!
www.ebay.co.uk

Stebel Nautilus Compact 12V Electropneumatic Car Horn In Black | eBay

Stebel Nautilus Compact 12V Electropneumatic Horn. They're Back! The Nautilus is practical and easy to install like most electric horns, yet features the power, reliability and uniquely pleasant tone of an air horn.
www.ebay.co.uk

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
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