Hazard Light Relay

gangitano85

A2OC Donor
Belgium
So, as I am waiting to get the new relay, I thought I would give it a try to repair the old relay for now. Ignorant as I am when it comes to anything electrical, I only checked the fuse today and saw that it was blown. So I thought I would replace it with the 15A one from the 12v cigarette lighter, but I blew straight away again. Am I allowed to put a higher tolerance (not sure if this is the correct term) fuse in (25A) or is there a more serious problem that causes the fuse to blow almost immediately?

Any advice is welcome :)

Best wishes

Thomas
 
So, as I am waiting to get the new relay, I thought I would give it a try to repair the old relay for now. Ignorant as I am when it comes to anything electrical, I only checked the fuse today and saw that it was blown. So I thought I would replace it with the 15A one from the 12v cigarette lighter, but I blew straight away again. Am I allowed to put a higher tolerance (not sure if this is the correct term) fuse in (25A) or is there a more serious problem that causes the fuse to blow almost immediately?

Any advice is welcome :)

Best wishes

Thomas
I would be wary of increasing the fuse value over whats originally fitted. Better to find the underlying cause.
Was the old relay in place when the fuses blew? If so remove it and fit another fuse. If that blows you know the issue is unlikely to be in the flasher unit.

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No, don't do that. A fuse is rated a little above it's normal load. So, if it blows, there's a problem. If you fit a higher rated fuse, that is higher amps, the next thing that will fail is the wiring, which is only rated to carry a safe margin over the necessary current. That is serious, and could cause a fire. Never fit a fuse that is higher than the original OEM item.
Mac.
 
Yes, the old relay was in place when I fitted the other fuse. I will get some more fuses (I need one for the cigarette lighter as that one is blown too now) and fit the fuse without the relay first and then with the relay.
 
No, don't do that. A fuse is rated a little above it's normal load. So, if it blows, there's a problem. If you fit a higher rated fuse, that is higher amps, the next thing that will fail is the wiring, which is only rated to carry a safe margin over the necessary current. That is serious, and could cause a fire. Never fit a fuse that is higher than the original OEM item.
Mac.

OK, learned something new today. Thank God I asked the wise people on this forum first before going rogue ;)
 
Back from the second round of testing:

- With relay disconnected, the fuse is OK
- With relay connected the indicators still don't work, but fuse is ok
- With relay connected the hazard lights cause the fuse to be blown.
 
Back from the second round of testing:

- With relay disconnected, the fuse is OK
- With relay connected the indicators still don't work, but fuse is ok
- With relay connected the hazard lights cause the fuse to be blown.
So when you flick the stalk left or right, nothing happens, but the fuse blows, when you turn the hazards on?
Mac.
 
Thanks guys, but I have already sourced a spare one. Hopefully it will arrive soon as the car is currently unsafe to drive.
 
So, part arrived today. Still same issue, so I checked the fuses again. Turn out fuse 34 (10A) was blown as well. Easy fix, I tought... Not quite, indicators were very dim, left side irregular and all of a sudden smoke coming out of the relay. Not sure what to do now. Fuse 34 was melted as well. Any thoughts? Am I using inferior fuses?
 
20240829_141035.JPG
 
Silly question, but is there a reason for the clips holding the relay in place to be out of metal?
I would suggest that most people who remove the flasher relay, do not return it to the standard position. Rather tuck it down with the wiring loom.
Its such a pig to access and remove!

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