I recommend you change yourself, wearing surgical / latex gloves.
I'm another fan of the Osram Nightbreaker bulbs but for the dipped beam headlights you need H7Could also be because he’s touching them without wearing gloves. The oils in human skin on the glass cause the bulbs to blow prematurely.
I recommend you get yourself an Allen key set and change yourself, wearing surgical / latex gloves. It’s very straightforward.
For what it’s worth, I’ve found you can’t go wrong with Osram nightbreaker +150 bulbs. I believe you need H3 sized ones and the +200 versions aren’t available in that size yet, but I find them perfectly adequate.
Bulbs like Osram Night Breaker, and Phillips Race are the same power as OEM, just better at turning the power into light. The problems come when higher power, v(more watts), "off road use only" bulbs are fitted. A pain for everyone coming the other way too!Steve....Would have thought that you would need the Nitrile gloves on BOTH hands
Very important to not touch the glass when fitting or removing bulbs. Always fit in matched pairs and if one bulb fails replace both of them. Bulb manufacture is much more precise now so there is far less chance that when the bulbs are correctly fitted into their holders that the aim will be off but still good idea to have then checked especially before an MOT.
A point worth bearing in mind is the more powerful bulbs generate more heat which in turn could increase the rate of the crazing cracking that the headlights experience. This could also discolour and non factory lens treatment used. Another reason why I do not lacquer headlights.
Ah yes, I thought the OP had mentioned high beams but as I see that he hadn't I'd bet money that he's referring to the low beams, in which case you're correct, he needs H7 - for which the +200% versions ARE available and would be an even better choice!I'm another fan of the Osram Nightbreaker bulbs but for the dipped beam headlights you need H7