Heater not giving a very high temp 🤔 tdi

999fire

New Member
If the thermostat was not opening at all, you'd have no heat. You should get a VCDS scan ASAP, as the FSI has an electronically controlled thermostat, and a scan will show what's going on. If the stat is not opening at all, the engine will overheat, and suffer serious damage. Better safe than sorry.
Mac.
Thanks Plasticmac, wee update, just to be safe, I have changed the thermostat and I still have no heat inside the car even after doing a 30 mile round trip to my local MOT centre as well :(.
Anyone know where I can get a copy/purchase VCDS for myself, I already have Delphi and an older Snap-On diagnostic tools but VCDS would be better.
On another note, I also need a recirculation flap motor or at the very least the small white lever that connects the motor to the flap as i snapped mine. Thanks very much for any help guys, it will be greatly appreciated.
 

999fire

New Member
Although this no longer relates to the original post for the tdi issue. I have added the answer for 999fire on here.

@999fire Here is the manual page....


Thanks audifan, I have now changed the thermostat but as I have mentioned in my reply to Plasticman, I still don't have any internal heat inside the car.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Jumping back to the VCDS question. The basic version known as LITE is a FREE download from Ross Tech, please only download from there. The next version up is REGISTERED LITE which unlocks more features such as full DTC code explanation. Then you go up to the FULL FAT versions that come with their own special cables..

Lite is ok on the A2 but for newer you would need full fat and for the latest cars the latest type of full fat is required.

For LITE you will need to purchase a usb cable ( runs on windows XP-10 ) and Mac on an emulator. This cable can be a cheap ebay KKL cable or the far better but more expensive Gendan cable. Note neither of these cables will work with full fat VCDS.

Oh yes forgot to say the "rotational fix" is the RSI injury you will get sitting with the engine running and cycling the temperature between LO and HI REPEATEDLY to hopefully free the flap. Be aware though this may only be a temporary fix as either the motor could be worn out or the potentiometer worn out.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
The tdi is very thermally efficient, which is not good news when you are trying to get warm! Slow traffic and the engine cools and the thermostat will close to keep the ECU happy(er). The fully working thermostat is crucial to making the engine get to operating temperature reasonably quickly to then allow coolant through the rest of the system including the cabin.

Early diesels were fitted with a diesel burning auxiliary heater known as a Webasto. This was a mini "boiler" and directly put heat into the coolant and thus the cabin warmed quicker. The later cars for whatever reason ( emissiions? ) were fitted with an electric PTC auxiliary heater that sat inside the cabin heater assembly and had the air blown over it to provide some warm air until the engine warmed up. As this electric heater was below the cabin heater matrix a SMALL amount of heat was transferred back into the coolant to aid that warming up but not a great deal as there was little flow of coolant due to...the thermostat being closed!
 

999fire

New Member
Jumping back to the VCDS question. The basic version known as LITE is a FREE download from Ross Tech, please only download from there. The next version up is REGISTERED LITE which unlocks more features such as full DTC code explanation. Then you go up to the FULL FAT versions that come with their own special cables..

Lite is ok on the A2 but for newer you would need full fat and for the latest cars the latest type of full fat is required.

For LITE you will need to purchase a usb cable ( runs on windows XP-10 ) and Mac on an emulator. This cable can be a cheap ebay KKL cable or the far better but more expensive Gendan cable. Note neither of these cables will work with full fat VCDS.

Oh yes forgot to say the "rotational fix" is the RSI injury you will get sitting with the engine running and cycling the temperature between LO and HI REPEATEDLY to hopefully free the flap. Be aware though this may only be a temporary fix as either the motor could be worn out or the potentiometer worn out.
Thanks very much, I will check this out on both ross Tech and eBay to try and get this sorted out as soon as possible.
 
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