Hello to the forum members.

I can’t say anymore than that ..I have bought a few items lately very helpful infact another small order today ...big thumbs up ?
 
Bearing hub and CV Joint out ?
 

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Just an update on this car resurrection.

From the last update in August 2020 the work progress has been very slow and sporadic, i never got much done in the winter then early this year i hurt my wrist at work and that halted any work until recently, so i now have the replacement steering rack fitted and new calipers on the front brakes, new cv joints, anti roll bar links, wheel bearings, new tyres on front, new front struts top mounts and springs though they are already rusting LOL surface rust only though ;)

Ill have to get new bolts for the subframe and after that the alignment will need to be set up,hope ive not messed up the angle sensor in the steering column, any tips on this would be appreciated as i have a feeling my son played in the car turning the wheel when it was all removed.

The bad things are that the rear axle is in a hell of a state, as is the hand brake cables and fuel tank strap plus lots of rusty clips etc on fuel lines, managed to source an axle from Aberdeen so weather dependant i may start removing the old one tomorrow, ill also have to sand down paint the replacement.

The car has now not had a MOT since 22 June 2017 :eek:
 
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Provided the wheel is centralised before connecting to the rack and the rack central you should be fine.

Perhaps you may want to think about applying a protective coating on the surfaces that are corroding while the car is sitting idle. Not fun replacing expensive parts to watch them rust before your eyes.
 
Provided the wheel is centralised before connecting to the rack and the rack central you should be fine.

Perhaps you may want to think about applying a protective coating on the surfaces that are corroding while the car is sitting idle. Not fun replacing expensive parts to watch them rust before your eyes.
Thanks Audifan

I gave it all a spray with wax oil last week, should have done it months ago but never expected it to be sitting so long, how i wish i had a garage to keep it in ??
 
As a precaution I would remove the steering wheel and check the little window in the clock spring to make sure the indicator is visible. Remember it can be 360` out. I am assuming the rack was disconnected while your son turned the wheel?
 
As a precaution I would remove the steering wheel and check the little window in the clock spring to make sure the indicator is visible. Remember it can be 360` out.

Ok ill try that, is it quite straight forward to remove it ?
 
Yes but basic safety has to be followed. Am I right in assuming the rack has been disconnected from the column? You need to disconnect the battery first - even if it is flat. Now remove the airbag then the central nut on the wheel. Before you pull the wheel off make alignment marks on the wheel boss and the splined column. Once the wheel is off the clock spring is visible underneath it. Please read the various threads and all the precautions needed. This is why it is a good idea to leave the steering lock on.
 
Have a read of the various threads then look through the manual to see what is involved. Then if you have further questions come back and ask.

Further pages of the manual can be seen by browsing up and down the far left column then clicking on the topic.
 
Yes but basic safety has to be followed. Am I right in assuming the rack has been disconnected from the column? You need to disconnect the battery first - even if it is flat. Now remove the airbag then the central nut on the wheel. Before you pull the wheel off make alignment marks on the wheel boss and the splined column. Once the wheel is off the clock spring is visible underneath it. Please read the various threads and all the precautions needed. This is why it is a good idea to leave the steering lock on.
Yes a replacemnt rack was fitted, i set the wheels straight before i started.
 
Steering wheel and road wheels? Did your son turn the steering wheel WITHOUT the rack connected? If not then hopefully you are fine, although if a bit off then once tracked to the steering wheel straight ahead position you may need VCDS to calibrate the clock spring ( steering angle sensor ) to the new central position.
 
Thanks for the help
Steering wheel and road wheels? Did your son turn the steering wheel WITHOUT the rack connected? If not then hopefully you are fine, although if a bit off then once tracked to the steering wheel straight ahead position you may need VCDS to calibrate the clock spring ( steering angle sensor ) to the new central position.

I think he did yes, i am not sure but i think there is a yellow steering wheel error on it, ill need to get the battery back on again and check it though.
 
The error could be because the wheel has been turned, or it could be due to low battery voltage or a power steering pump issue.
 

The warning on this page may just have come true. The spring- a ribbon cable can only be wound so much in each direction one will tighten it until it breaks, the other will probable kink the ribbon and damage it at a minimum.

I believe you now will definitely have to remove the steering wheel to check and perhaps replace the clock spring.
 
Thanks for the help


I think he did yes, i am not sure but i think there is a yellow steering wheel error on it, ill need to get the battery back on again and check it though.
Evening,

Having only replaced the A2s Slip Ring with a TT Slip Ring on Saturday I can confirm that if your VCDS is genuine and up to date it will tell you how many degrees your are out by.

If you follow the calibration process it will display how central the steering wheel is. I’ve seen Slip Rings out by 360’ and 720’. If out by 360’ then turn the wheel anti-clockwise. If you’re getting -360’ reading then correct by turning clockwise.

To damage the Slip Ring ribbon you really do need to force it.

Of note, I’ve just removed an A2 Slip Ring and which is in perfect working order and was taped up in the central position before fully removing from the steering column. It was only removed to be upgraded with a 10 pin TT Slip Ring.

If you learn that yours is damaged then I’m happy to send you what I’ve removed as it’s of no use to me as I continue to play with the heated steering wheel experiments. Yours free of charge plus minimal postage.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
And disconnect the rack. Set the rack correctly - its in the manual. Set the clock spring and wheel central.

Yes as Tom has said above it does take a bit of force to damage it but as there are no internal stops then do not rule it out without thorough checking.

Toms instructions above it is the clock spring you rotate not the steering column that remains dead ahead.

TBH for piece of mind and as a known starting point I would take Tom up on the offer of his clock spring / slip ring / rotary electrical connector.
 
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