'How to Fix' - Manifold Pressure Sensor fault

Wow that sounds promising. At the moment my mechanic wants to change the EGR valve as that is the fault code that is being generated during a scan. I would prefer the ECU software upgrade to start with first.

Do you have the contact details of the Audi specialist in Coventry? or even more details about how your car was diagnosed to have an ECU software issue.

Cheers

Yatin
 
Specialist Details

http://www.thevwaudispecialists.co.uk/ - is the link.

basically, my friends brother remembered some TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from audi regarding the A2 but didnt know if it applied to the 1.4 petrol (nor the year - in my case Nov 2001).

His mate at Audi confirmed it applied so he advised me to go to an Audi Specialist for the software upgrade as Audi would charge £116 an hour.

I had used the audi specialist in Coventry (after being recommended by my cousin) to long life service my car last Jan 2011 and fix brake issues. They were excellent and throughly recommended. I have since done around 15,000+ miles with no problems whatsoever and will be using them again around Easter time when the car is due another service.

Hope this helps

Slumdog
 
Was it a quick fix or did you have to leave the car with them whilst they did the update? I will give them a call later this week as I am heading to Leicester at the weekend.

Thanks for your help!

Yatin
 
I think the fix is no more than an hour or so but ring them to find out.

I left my car with them as I think from memory they were sent a wrong CD / Software and the right CD arrived the next day (Saturday).

They called me before 12 to confirm that the job was completed successfully.

Let me know how you get on ?

Slumdog
 
Thanks for this great how to! I had the car electric fault light in dash one week ago. Vagcom found the lambda fault. It turned out I had the same issue: The rubber tube was leaking air. In my case it had the wear as indicated by the how to but also additional wear induced by the cable fixing of a defa chord installation. It was easy fix and the fault is gone! :eek:
 
I have a mate with a 1.4 petrol A2 2001 model, I think AUB engine, (looks same as Sarge786's) I scanned it and came up with the code 17559. Digging for information, found this thread and checked the offending hose. It was well clear of the brake pipe, BUT the upper part of the hose (above the sensor indicated) has rubbed through on the mounting foot for the air intake duct fitted above the intake manifold. I believe this is a breather pipe, so it would be a vacuum leak. Not sure if this would be common, but it clearly can be a problem, so thought it worth mentioning?

310320121003.jpg


problem area down behind the engine at timing belt end



310320121002.jpg


Hose with duct tape as temp repair until a new piece can be sourced. No idea if this has fixed it, car was running fine, just throwing the management light on occasionally. It had not come on since code was cleared the other day, only time will tell..
 
I now have the exact code, and i have checked the pipe as illustrated and its fine, therefore i am thinking its a faulty sensor. Does anyone know the part number?
How much does it cost from Audi?
I got a quote from EuroCarParts and its £60
 
Guys,

What is the sensor fixed into the repaired pipe in Scotty33's second picture?

Would I be right in saying the MAP sensor is lower down on the manifold (on my petrol A2), so is this a vacum sensor on this pipe? We continue to get 17559 fault codes. We've cleaned our MAP sensor and checked this pipe and others for damage/holes.

Maybe looking at a new MAP sensor?

Rich
 
Rich,

It's not a sensor, the connector attaches to a heater unit in the pipe, this is to prevent the hose icing up in cold weather conditions.
I had a Lupo which uses the same engine and the heater shorted out, blowing the fuse which happens to be the same one for the injectors, so the car just died! I ended up disconnecting the heater and did not get any fault codes as a result of this.

Steve
 
Cheers Steve, very helpful.

Sorry for being a noob. So, that air pipe is heated when the engine is cold (cold weather)? Seems to terminate in a box like structure below.
 
Rich,

The box at the lower end of the pipe is the crankcase breather assembly, this allows excess pressure and fumes within the engine to be routed into the air intake and burnt to remove the need to vent these to the atmosphere. The heater is there as it was found that this pipe could freeze in cold climates before the engine warms up, the resulting pressure build up could damage the oil seals. In the Lupo it was heated all the time, I don't know if the A2 installation is the same.

With regard to your fault code, have you checked the Ross Tech Wiki, this gives a few other things to consider: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17559/P1151/004433

Steve
 
Thanks again Steve, very helpful.

On the 17559 fault code, our Activated-Charcoal filter does seem to make a 'pud-pud-pud-pud' noise. A burst of 5-6 seconds then quiet, then the noise repeats (on tick over). This normal for this device or is there a little pump that feeds it?

Looking at that list our post Lambda sensor has popped up an error before. Car has 120k, prob needs changing. No MAP sensor on list, thought that odd?

Rich.
 
Failed again on emissions and 3 fault codes including 17584, 16517 and this 17566.

I have stripped everything back to get access and can see that in the past (more than 5 years ago) someone had already wrapped insulating tape at the bend where it rubs against the brake pipe and also for most of the whole pipe after the heater (?) junction.

In order to properly inspect and do a better fix job I want to remove the whole assembly but for the love of SBJ I can't find how to disconnect the lower hose. Anyone got any clues? Ideally I want to replace the hoses but for now attempt a better repair, clean the MAP and see what difference that makes before moving onto the Lambda sensor dtc's.
 
Sarge said:
Hi Guys my first 'how to' here, hope it helps someone.

I found that the engine light came on and after the engine (1.4i Petrol) was run for a few mins, it would either start 'hunting' (revs bouncing up & down) or turn off, this is after the autochoke went off, this would then cause a little difficulty restarting.

I did a Vag Com scan and found:
1 fault found:
17566 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71): Implausible signal
P1158 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 1010 0101

SO I had a look around at the sensor and wiring, it all seemed to be ok, so unable to test the sensor without changing it, and not having a spare, I decided to do basic checks, (it's funny how people jump to conclusions, spend cash, then find afterwards that they should have checked basics first).

Having a look around and feeling the full length of the pipe that the sensor is fixed in, I discovered that this pipe had been rubbing against the brake pipe next to it, and it had gone through (out of sight) causing a hole in the pipe!.

SO, to remedy this, I cleaned up the pipe and used good old self Amalgamating tape (every tool box should have this, it's very useful) around the hole in the pipe, creating an air/water tight seal. Don't be tempted to use insulation tape as this usually undoes it self after a little bit of heat, and is pretty useless in greasy situations. I then cleared the fault code using Vag Com, and Valla!.. idling normal, and no fault found!..


;)
SARGE
Click to expand...
Hi
I have 1.6 fsi and just had a fuel injector replaced , Just curious to know how long that job would be . Also after about a week of replacing the injector I have had the EML light come on and its coming up as a Map sensor fault although the car is running ok in town. Could it be that things have not been fitted back properly after the new injector was put in.
Would appreciate your opinion
Thanks
 
hits said:
Hi
I have 1.6 fsi and just had a fuel injector replaced , Just curious to know how long that job would be . Also after about a week of replacing the injector I have had the EML light come on and its coming up as a Map sensor fault although the car is running ok in town. Could it be that things have not been fitted back properly after the new injector was put in.
Would appreciate your opinion
Thanks
Click to expand...

In the absence of a more informed reply, and if you are asking how long it takes to repair the hose then I can say that I redid the whole assembly (2 pipes each side of the heater element) in under 3 hours and that includes taking off the windscreen wipers.
I took the wiper assembly off to gain access to the upper retaining screws for the cabin air intake to access the upper pipe with ease. In doing so I found a hose clip and not been at all tightened and that connection to the top of the EGR must have been leaking for ages. I did want to remove and inspect the whole hose assembly properly but just could not separate it from the lower end. Bit fiddly but totally possible to do.
To get to the injector they would have removed much of those hoses, any not refitted correctly could cause a leak, eventually upset the MAP and your EML comes on. It is also possible that the MAP has failed or a hose has leaked purely as a coincidence to the injector work.
 
yatz said:
Wow that sounds promising. At the moment my mechanic wants to change the EGR valve as that is the fault code that is being generated during a scan. I would prefer the ECU software upgrade to start with first.

Do you have the contact details of the Audi specialist in Coventry? or even more details about how your car was diagnosed to have an ECU software issue.

Cheers

Yatin
Click to expand...
Hi this errorcode came of this:
register reim A2 petrol.jpg
Lucky to discover it before it went terrible wrong
 
Sarge said:
Hi Guys my first 'how to' here, hope it helps someone.

I found that the engine light came on and after the engine (1.4i Petrol) was run for a few mins, it would either start 'hunting' (revs bouncing up & down) or turn off, this is after the autochoke went off, this would then cause a little difficulty restarting.

I did a Vag Com scan and found:
1 fault found:
17566 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71): Implausible signal
P1158 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 1010 0101

SO I had a look around at the sensor and wiring, it all seemed to be ok, so unable to test the sensor without changing it, and not having a spare, I decided to do basic checks, (it's funny how people jump to conclusions, spend cash, then find afterwards that they should have checked basics first).

Having a look around and feeling the full length of the pipe that the sensor is fixed in, I discovered that this pipe had been rubbing against the brake pipe next to it, and it had gone through (out of sight) causing a hole in the pipe!.

SO, to remedy this, I cleaned up the pipe and used good old self Amalgamating tape (every tool box should have this, it's very useful) around the hole in the pipe, creating an air/water tight seal. Don't be tempted to use insulation tape as this usually undoes it self after a little bit of heat, and is pretty useless in greasy situations. I then cleared the fault code using Vag Com, and Valla!.. idling normal, and no fault found!..


;)
SARGE
Click to expand...
I got the same errorcode as you, but the solution was new timingbelts, think it was close before full engine disaster.
register reim A2 petrol.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top