I am speachless

ChrisTM

New Member
Hi everyone.I am new here and I want to thank you for accept.Btw You guys can call me Chris.
I have a 1.4 l Petrol A2 with non stop problems.Bought it in 2018 and since then I lost the time spent at mechanics.Latest dashboard looks as in attachment.Engine eats 1 l of 5W40 Oil every 1500 km .Changed EGR, Lambda sensors,throttle,Petrol pump but i have not checked the engine itself.Now it simply stops while running .I am still trying to find a good mechanic with passion for cars.Maybe I will find the main problem(s) soon.What you guys think ? What should I check first ?

I have been with the car at an Audi original workshop .After 4 hours of diagnosys and checks the answer was : You need to come back because we could not find the problem and the errors are still there.I am done with them.
 

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If there have been 4 hours of diagnosis (that I assume you have paid for at top dollar), there must be a print out of the VCDS analysis - if not then it is bordering on daylight robbery. A2s are also usually not best taken to modern Audi dealerships since they very rarely have people who know how they work or have the sensitivity to work out some of the more complicated issues that can occur.

Is the battery recent?

Second question - the steering error - are there any other errors that come up at the same time (oil level sensor etc.)? Reason for asking both of these questions is that many of us have acquired cars that still have the original battery at 15-18 years old, and if this is going off, the lower voltage can cause all manner of spurious electrical "faults" false positives that need to be cleared once a better battery is fitted before looking to see which ones come back and are genuine problems.

Best of luck - you've come to the right place.
 
If there have been 4 hours of diagnosis (that I assume you have paid for at top dollar), there must be a print out of the VCDS analysis - if not then it is bordering on daylight robbery. A2s are also usually not best taken to modern Audi dealerships since they very rarely have people who know how they work or have the sensitivity to work out some of the more complicated issues that can occur.

Is the battery recent?

Second question - the steering error - are there any other errors that come up at the same time (oil level sensor etc.)? Reason for asking both of these questions is that many of us have acquired cars that still have the original battery at 15-18 years old, and if this is going off, the lower voltage can cause all manner of spurious electrical "faults" false positives that need to be cleared once a better battery is fitted before looking to see which ones come back and are genuine problems.

Best of luck - you've come to the right place.
The steering error dissapears when i restart the engine.Appears like 3 times /week.EPC light i noticed that appears soon as I hit the throttle and after EPC light is on and the car is not on a gear the engine's rot/min drops instantly from 800 to 0 (engine dies).Battery is 4 years old.I use car 95% in town with like 30-36 engine starts-stops /day.About VCDS : From Audi workshop I did not receive any ....just an info that they suspect throttle body ( new installed before reaching them) but further diagnosys needs to take place...about check engine ....same think....it is EGR...ok ....put new and error is there...2nd time ....oooo it is lambda sensor 1....oook(i said) let us change it too....error is still there after lambda change.
PS.Sorry for my bad english.
 
Oil consumption of that level if lost thru combustion could cause catalyst damage
Any obvious leaks from block?
Or a compression test may narrow down the source + check spark plugs for tell tale carbon build up
 
The steering error dissapears when i restart the engine.Appears like 3 times /week.EPC light i noticed that appears soon as I hit the throttle and after EPC light is on and the car is not on a gear the engine's rot/min drops instantly from 800 to 0 (engine dies).Battery is 4 years old.I use car 95% in town with like 30-36 engine starts-stops /day.About VCDS : From Audi workshop I did not receive any ....just an info that they suspect throttle body ( new installed before reaching them) but further diagnosys needs to take place...about check engine ....same think....it is EGR...ok ....put new and error is there...2nd time ....oooo it is lambda sensor 1....oook(i said) let us change it too....error is still there after lambda change.
PS.Sorry for my bad english.

2 actions for you:

1) Don’t ever go to any of the garages / mechanics you’ve been using again.

2) Get a full VCDS scan and post it here.
 
Oil consumption of that level if lost thru combustion could cause catalyst damage
Any obvious leaks from block?
Or a compression test may narrow down the source + check spark plugs for tell tale carbon build up
No oil leaks.It is normal to lose that quantity of oil through combustion? I will try to find someone better to get a full scan.
 
For what you have already paid for "diagnostics" you could have purchased your own full version of VCDS. Please get at a MINIMUM VCDS Lite. You will at least then know if the garage is having your trousers down and can post the scan results here for us to help you. I do think your oil consumption is high. Have you checked the filler pipe where it enters the block for any leaks and is the under tray wet with oil?
 
For what you have already paid for "diagnostics" you could have purchased your own full version of VCDS. Please get at a MINIMUM VCDS Lite. You will at least then know if the garage is having your trousers down and can post the scan results here for us to help you. I do think your oil consumption is high. Have you checked the filler pipe where it enters the block for any leaks and is the under tray wet with oil?
True about software .There are no oil leaks .
 
What colour is your exhaust? Burning that much oil the spark plugs, lambda sensor, catalyst and exhaust must contain oil.
 
One thing I've noted in @ChrisTM 's comments - starting the car 30-36 times per day (presumably with small distance between stops) is extremely high for a non-Stop-Start system, especially in winter when the car is already maybe not the best - this could lead to low charge and maybe even battery damage, even if there is a very big battery or an improved alternator.

Second question - how many kilometres are on the car?

Something I have been told here is that although the A2 is more than 20 years old in design, the CANBus system and circuits are designed with awareness of the importance of electrical power levels available for certain safety-critical activities, and are able to reduce electrical load when battery is low with prioritisation of functions. The electric steering pump uses huge amounts of power, so if the voltage drops due to low charge levels, a steering warning is not surprising.

If your usage levels are going to stay similar, maybe installing a more powerful alternator and another battery wired in parallel to the original to give greater charging potential for the same voltage could be an idea (I am not a mechanic, please delete this idea if I am wrong for safety reasons).
 
I see you are in Romania so good A2 knowledge might be a problem, and from your experience to date would seem to bear this out .
All the advice given here so far is IMO, excellent.
I assume your car is left hand drive?
Perhaps a member from a LHD country might like to chip in?
 
One of my A2s had this fault. Early 2001 have a power steering sensor called G250. If this sensor is faulty the yellow lamp will light. This could be intermittent. This will also cause an error code if you do a scan with vcds. The G250 sensor is hard to find since it is discontinued. I had to buy a used complete steering rack from a scrap yard. I took the sensor from it and replaced it on my car.
I also had the problem with all warning lights lighting up on the dashboard and the car would not go. Often you could restart and drive for a while. When this happened the voltage was low on the battery, like 12,1 Volts. After recharging the fault didn't happen until the battery was low on voltage again after a month. We replaced the battery and now it holds charge and the fault has not come back any more.
 
No oil leaks.It is normal to lose that quantity of oil through combustion? I will try to find someone better to get a full scan.
If you were loosing that much oil through combustion, then there would be very obvious smoke at the exhaust. If no exhaust smoke, I don't think it's being burnt in the combustion chambers.
Mac.
 
When I bought my car the owner said it the engine was eating oil. In fact it was overfilled because the dipstick was broken. The former owner had filled up with oil until he saw oil on the dipstick. It was consuming oil because there was about 6,5 liters of oil in the engine when it I drained it. It should be 3,5 liters. When I filled the normal amount it stopped consuming oil. Broken dipsticks are very common.
 
I hope that terminal damage has not been done to the engine by overfilling. I take it you now have a functioning dip stick. With that much oil surprised it did not hydraulic lock the pistons. Worth having a compression test done to see if the rings have been damaged. The breather system would also have been full of oil so that will need to be cleaned out. What state is the air filter and its housing in?
 
One thing I've noted in @ChrisTM 's comments - starting the car 30-36 times per day (presumably with small distance between stops) is extremely high for a non-Stop-Start system, especially in winter when the car is already maybe not the best - this could lead to low charge and maybe even battery damage, even if there is a very big battery or an improved alternator.

Second question - how many kilometres are on the car?

Something I have been told here is that although the A2 is more than 20 years old in design, the CANBus system and circuits are designed with awareness of the importance of electrical power levels available for certain safety-critical activities, and are able to reduce electrical load when battery is low with prioritisation of functions. The electric steering pump uses huge amounts of power, so if the voltage drops due to low charge levels, a steering warning is not surprising.

If your usage levels are going to stay similar, maybe installing a more powerful alternator and another battery wired in parallel to the original to give greater charging potential for the same voltage could be an idea (I am not a mechanic, please delete this idea if I am wrong for safety reasons).

Hello Robin,

do you know a part number of this " more powerful alternator" for A2 1.6FSI? I just would like to have it fitted just for the safe side...

Thanks!
 
The FSI alternator is 110A. I don't know if they will fit, but there are 120 and 140A alternators specified with the Tdi models, and it is plausible that there are other members of the 110A alternator family used in bigger VAG models (ie same casing and connections, just more potent internals) that could be substituted? Would be necessary to trawl through the catalogues and parts diagrams to find out though which is not something I have time for right now.

This is all hypothetical though but part-based on non-FSI experience. I have a 140A alternator (from a BHC) fitted to my AMF-engined car (originally 120A) simply because it was all I could get hold of that was affordable at the time I needed a replacement alternator.
 
Thank you guys for advices .
Got news in attachments after a diagnose check ,the 2nd is after solving throttle adaptation.
The car have 231000 Km.
The guy told me to look for a car electrician for remaining errors.
Here I have found steps to solve theese 2 remaining error codes P1190 and P1158

 

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I see you are in Romania so good A2 knowledge might be a problem, and from your experience to date would seem to bear this out .
All the advice given here so far is IMO, excellent.
I assume your car is left hand drive?
Perhaps a member from a LHD country might like to chip in?
Yes,LHD.
 
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