I bought a (pig) farm

Scumfrog

Scumfrog

Member
Hi Folks,
Just bought, by default, a 54 reg. cobalt (I think) blue 1.6 FSI Sport.
It was abandoned, and stood in a friend's yard, for two years due to a misfire.
Started first time, but runs very rough and not really driveable.
Diagnostic suggests fuel rail pressure sensor fault, packed in after driven through a flood by an apparent idiot.
95,000 miles or thereabouts, seems pretty genuine going by the condition.
The outside cleaned up well after getting all the leaves, moss and compost off. Virtually scratch free!
Black cloth interior which I think is fairly rare (?) Not much wear and no rip or tears.
The filthiest car I have ever been in, ever.
Managed to get the Previous Keeper's V5, but no Service history.
Recovered yesterday by the local garage, waiting for a quote for full service and MOT.
Will it be repairs.... or spares?
Looking forwards to any advice which will be very gratefully received.
Rich
 
Welcome to the friendliest forum on t'interweb :)

The FSI is a complex beastie, there's lots to read and understand which even your mechanic may not know about since these engines are pretty rare (I understand the modern TFSI doesn't now do most of the things that made the FSI unique at launch). I can't say too much though, not having one of my own, I'm a TDI man :D But others with knowledge will doubtless be along soon to help out.

One thing I will say, if it looks like being a keeper, once you get it sorted, investigate the ProBoost map. This edits out all the main cumulative causes of failure in the FSI engine.
 
Hello and welcome, fellow FSi owner :)

My advice would be to take it slowly: I'm in the process of rescuing an FSi as well, albeit mine has an MOT (sort of) and runs (sort of). The difference is that I'm doing all of my own work and have the required VCDS diagnostic gear. I'm also being careful not to rack up any costs until I know it's going to be viable.

Therefore my advice is make sure whoever is working on it a) understands the FSi engines (rather than engines in general), and ideally, A2's and b) they don't just have a generic garage computer but actual VCDS.

It would be the easiest thing in the world to start to pay for parts and labour in the hope you can get things up and running, only to find that actually, it's still not right. On the other hand, A2's are extremely well made and respond brilliantly to being brought back from a near-grave experience. Just keep in mind you can get a pretty good FSI for a grand and a brilliant one for two. Add up some MOT items, some tyres, a big service (with belts), a couple of niggles plus whatever the engine needs to run right, all with labour on top, and you can blast past the value really quickly.

That all sounds negative: it's not meant to be, just a hint that if you go in with eyes open, DIY where you can and generally box-clever you've got the best chance of a good outcome. In your corner is it's a Sport in Cobalt: they look absolutely awesome when done :cool:

I think we need pictures ? ?
 
I'm willing to take a gamble on fitting the sensor at a quoted £100 in the hope that cures the rough running. (That's with dropping the engine and cleaning the manifold). I decided that was beyond my patience hence it was carted off to the garage. Or am I deluded, and there could be a host of other issues?

Otherwise, it needs new discs and pads all round and probably a full service, although the oil wasn't that bad.
I think I can do that myself - how accessible is the sump plug and filter?

Then I have to decide how much of a chance to take with the timing belt and how long for.

If the above comes in at around a grand and It's all running fine and MOT'd, then I think I'll have a result. I don't think any car under two grand will have had all that just done.

And yes, especially as it's the cobalt sport but not forgretting the black interior which obviously looks way cooler than any other combo.
 
Scumfrog said:
I'm willing to take a gamble on fitting the sensor at a quoted £100 in the hope that cures the rough running. (That's with dropping the engine and cleaning the manifold). I decided that was beyond my patience hence it was carted off to the garage. Or am I deluded, and there could be a host of other issues?

Otherwise, it needs new discs and pads all round and probably a full service, although the oil wasn't that bad.
I think I can do that myself - how accessible is the sump plug and filter?

Then I have to decide how much of a chance to take with the timing belt and how long for.

If the above comes in at around a grand and It's all running fine and MOT'd, then I think I'll have a result. I don't think any car under two grand will have had all that just done.

And yes, especially as it's the cobalt sport but not forgretting the black interior which obviously looks way cooler than any other combo.
Click to expand...

That seems amazingly low unless I'm reading it right: drop engine (do you need to? I don't know), remove manifold, clean out, check flap operation, check angle potentiometer (sp?) operation and reading. Replace pressure sensor (hopefully they'll do a physical check of fuel rail pressure to verify the sensor isn't right and it's trying to tell the ECU the pressure is out of range - Low).

Unless they're at about £5.50 an hour, there's something wrong there (apols if I'm mis-reading your post). I suspect actually they're pricing just to do some checks and change the sensor. Even then, £100 sounds a bit low.

Again, I'd underline the need to use someone that really knows FSi's, hopefully your garage does ?

You're right though: you'll know exactly what you've got with your car once done. As you say, there's a lot that can be DIY'd but just sort the running first. If they do have VCDS perhaps you can post the result of a scan up. Then members 'might' be able to tell you if the Pro-Boost ecu can deal with any of them.

Again: hold your powder dry for as long as you can, assemble as much reliable information as you can before moving forward to the next stage. As you say though, £100 throw of the dice? Might be worth it.

Good luck and don't forget those pictures :cool:
 
Welcome.

A shiver ran down my spine when I read your posts, listen to Rusty I was going to post similiar, the FSI is notorious for quickly cleaning out your bank account and even then it will not be fixed.

I have just scrapped what I have just written as too negative and decided to simply say, suspend any work and post a VCDS(only this) scan here.

You may well have a good car, I have two, but don't rush into things.

Andy
 
Rusty911 said:
That seems amazingly low unless I'm reading it right: drop engine (do you need to? I don't know), remove manifold, clean out, check flap operation, check angle potentiometer (sp?) operation and reading. Replace pressure sensor (hopefully they'll do a physical check of fuel rail pressure to verify the sensor isn't right and it's trying to tell the ECU the pressure is out of range - Low).

Unless they're at about £5.50 an hour, there's something wrong there (apols if I'm mis-reading your post). I suspect actually they're pricing just to do some checks and change the sensor. Even then, £100 sounds a bit low.

Again, I'd underline the need to use someone that really knows FSi's, hopefully your garage does ?

You're right though: you'll know exactly what you've got with your car once done. As you say, there's a lot that can be DIY'd but just sort the running first. If they do have VCDS perhaps you can post the result of a scan up. Then members 'might' be able to tell you if the Pro-Boost ecu can deal with any of them.

Again: hold your powder dry for as long as you can, assemble as much reliable information as you can before moving forward to the next stage. As you say though, £100 throw of the dice? Might be worth it.

Good luck and don't forget those pictures :cool:
Click to expand...
They are definitely not FSI experts.

Yes the idea is just to replace the sensor and a quick clean ...and hope for the best. But if that doesn't work, if we don't have a 100% reliable diagnostic of the actual problem, it's not going to be viable to keep throwing money at it, I don't have the time to do it myself and it'll be kept for spares or sold as spares/repairs. (I could well be in the market for a 1.4tdi by Tuesday!)

As I understand it, the sensor can just about be replaced with the manifold moved a bit and he's agreed to try that first.
But the official Audi method is to remove the manifold and to do that the engine has to be lowered a bit. Text book time for that is 2.5 hours, so quoted at £100. hopefully it's correct.

Not sure if they have the VCDS, I'll ask. How would I get a copy of the output?

I don't have any photos yet, will put some up at some point.
 
Andrew said:
Welcome.

A shiver ran down my spine when I read your posts, listen to Rusty I was going to post similiar, the FSI is notorious for quickly cleaning out your bank account and even then it will not be fixed.

I have just scrapped what I have just written as too negative and decided to simply say, suspend any work and post a VCDS(only this) scan here.

You may well have a good car, I have two, but don't rush into things.

Andy
Click to expand...
Mmm.... OK. Will discuss with garage first thing.
But if diagnostic says faulty sensor, then you have to just go with that or do nothing?
Or is it only VCDS that knows what's what and all other diagnostics are likely to be wrong?
Car was fine before being driven through water BTW.
 
Welcome along, not a lot i can to the above other than to say, these are rare cars now and deserve to be preserved. Whether that means an uninitiated owner who has little "spanner" knowledge and deep pockets or a time served "spanner" who could probably fix for not much more than a couple hundred pounds with second hand parts and you're lucky.

Either way put up the vcds results on here and go from there. If you're getting set point not reached (17439 - intake manifold tuning valve (N316) set point not reached P1031) It's either the 316 valve, the plastic rod and or manifold flaps innoperable, or the potentiometer. If the plastic rod isn't broken and the flaps are working it could well be just the potentiometer or worse (as in time to remove) otherwise a cheap fix a lower manifold removal to clean it out. All aside best of luck.
 
To be fair, it sounds as though your garage man is sensible at least. Thanks for clarifying the run-down on labour: I'm less confused now!

As various posts above, try to get a VCDS scan done as first job.

Sorry, I don't know how to post it all up as actually pretty new to this place myself (although have some motor-trade experience in general). Nevertheless, I'd imagine you'll be able to copy and paste the output into Notepad or similar and post it from there.

Others will be happy to explain to you (and me!) I'm sure.

With that done, the A2OC posse will be delighted no doubt to run through your possible paths to repair it.

Bottom line: please don't break it, whatever you find. It's a rare car and whilst it might not have much 'value' as such, it deserves saving.

Where are you, out of interest? If you happen to be near me we could scan it together if your chap doesn't have VCDS. I have the full version and literally just about to scan half of my FSi's (one).
 
Scumfrog said:
Mmm.... OK. Will discuss with garage first thing.
But if diagnostic says faulty sensor, then you have to just go with that or do nothing?
Or is it only VCDS that knows what's what and all other diagnostics are likely to be wrong?
Car was fine before being driven through water BTW.
Click to expand...
Absolutely not: you need to know how to test the sensor and / or how to test what the sensor is testing.

Sometimes a sensor will give an implausible reading (out of a set range) because it's faulty. BUT it could be sensing perfectly, but the thing it's sensing is out of range.

So, as an example, let's say a pressure sensor is saying 'low fuel rail pressure'. You 'might' just try a sensor and get lucky. Or you might decide not to order a sensor, but put a pressure gauge onto the fuel rail itself. If the pressure is in range, great: check the wiring to the sensor, and finally think about changing the sensor.

On the other hand, if fuel pressure really 'is' low and the sensor was right all along, you've not wasted time and money on a sensor only to find your high pressure fuel pump has died.

A classic is O2 sensors being replaced because the reading doesn't make sense, despite the big exhaust leak letting in O2 throwing the reading. Then the garage says 'we've changed the sensor but your light's still up, btw we've found an exhaust leak.'

Bottom line: know why you're changing something or risk changing it for worse than nothing. Each time you change something you risk disturbing other things, plus you're paying labour the whole time.

Don't lose heart though: we're here to help :)
 
I'm actually in the middle of nowhere, AKA Anglesey, so I doubt if anyone's near to be honest. If you know anyone nearby who knows about these engines, I'd be glad to know.

Anyway, I'll bear in mind all the above, and we'll see what happens tomorrow, and yes I promise not to break and will offer up for sale if it doesn't work out.


Cheers
 
Scumfrog said:
I'm actually in the middle of nowhere, AKA Anglesey, so I doubt if anyone's near to be honest. If you know anyone nearby who knows about these engines, I'd be glad to know.

Anyway, I'll bear in mind all the above, and we'll see what happens tomorrow, and yes I promise not to break and will offer up for sale if it doesn't work out.


Cheers
Click to expand...
Oh, you're just up the road from me: I'm in East Sussex :D

Oh well, all best wishes for tomorrow and I hope it goes O.K.

BTW, I've just scanned my car: only reason I mention it is that it's a doddle to save the results. After the scan you have a number of options, one of which is 'copy'. You can then copy, open Wordpad (or whatever) and paste it into that. In turn that can be put on a stick (or whatever) for transmission the the A2 Gods, or if all else fails, here :) I would put my results up, but they're too shameful. The good news is there were no faults found on the horn. As for the rest ...
 
Rusty911 said:
BTW, I've just scanned my car: only reason I mention it is that it's a doddle to save the results. After the scan you have a number of options, one of which is 'copy'. You can then copy, open Wordpad (or whatever) and paste it into that. In turn that can be put on a stick (or whatever) for transmission the the A2 Gods, or if all else fails, here :) I would put my results up, but they're too shameful. The good news is there were no faults found on the horn. As for the rest ...
Click to expand...

You could also just take a pic with your mobile as i do. ?
 
Tbh
Scumfrog said:
They are definitely not FSI experts.

Yes the idea is just to replace the sensor and a quick clean ...and hope for the best. But if that doesn't work, if we don't have a 100% reliable diagnostic of the actual problem, it's not going to be viable to keep throwing money at it, I don't have the time to do it myself and it'll be kept for spares or sold as spares/repairs. (I could well be in the market for a 1.4tdi by Tuesday!)

As I understand it, the sensor can just about be replaced with the manifold moved a bit and he's agreed to try that first.
But the official Audi method is to remove the manifold and to do that the engine has to be lowered a bit. Text book time for that is 2.5 hours, so quoted at £100. hopefully it's correct.

Not sure if they have the VCDS, I'll ask. How would I get a copy of the output?

I don't have any photos yet, will put some up at some point.
Click to expand...

@Scumfrog
If they don't have VCDS, they ain't (FSI) experts. Follow the advice from @Andrew
Take a deep breath, find a member close to you who can scan it for you.
Mac.
 
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Scumfrog said:
Mmm.... OK. Will discuss with garage first thing.
But if diagnostic says faulty sensor, then you have to just go with that or do nothing?
Or is it only VCDS that knows what's what and all other diagnostics are likely to be wrong?
Car was fine before being driven through water BTW.
Click to expand...


Sorry for the delay responding I had to cook a roast dinner.

Your later posts are most informative and inspire some confidence in your garage, I just wish labour rates were the same in my neck of the woods, but still hard to believe. I wonder about the manifold work at this stage, it may be worth pointing out to the mechanic no petrol goes through the manifold in an A2 FSI, it is injected directly into the cylinder head. The manifold clean is well worth doing from a long term maintainance perspective but only at this stage if related codes are present, but without scan output and fault numbers we are in the dark.

It is true cheap diagnostics kit often give misleading fault reports but most likely not the case here, your professional garage will have something decent I expect, it is just VCDS is well respected and we are used to reading the output and will yield more specific advice.

If you end up playing part darts A2Steve can provide used parts at not much money.

Good luck tomorrow we are all rooting for you and hope to hear good news.

Andy
 
Andrew said:
Sorry for the delay responding I had to cook a roast dinner.

Your later posts are most informative and inspire some confidence in your garage, I just wish labour rates were the same in my neck of the woods, but still hard to believe. I wonder about the manifold work at this stage, it may be worth pointing out to the mechanic no petrol goes through the manifold in an A2 FSI, it is injected directly into the cylinder head. The manifold clean is well worth doing from a long term maintainance perspective but only at this stage if related codes are present, but without scan output and fault numbers we are in the dark.

It is true cheap diagnostics kit often give misleading fault reports but most likely not the case here, your professional garage will have something decent I expect, it is just VCDS is well respected and we are used to reading the output and will yield more specific advice.

If you end up playing part darts A2Steve can provide used parts at not much money.

Good luck tomorrow we are all rooting for you and hope to hear good news.

Andy
Click to expand...
'Part Darts': I must remember that ?
 
After a more thorough investigation at the garage, it was found that the compression on one of the cylinders was 'a bit too low', as well as suspected high pressure fuel pump failure rather than the sensor.

There are no definite answers as to the reasons for the low compression or poor fuel delivery. To save costs, it was not investigated further and that's all we know.

The car also needs new brakes all round.

Repair work was, therefore, not carried out and the project has unfortunately been abandoned.
 
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