I bought an A2 1.6 FSI

Gorevolution

Gorevolution

Member
Hi, I have recently bought an A2 1.6 FSI and it obviously has the intake manifold actuator arm broken. So the search for information led me to your forum. I'm from Bologna, Italy and this is my fourth Audi. I had a '99 A4 1.8 T quattro Avant, a '97 A4 1.9 TDI quattro and an '04 A6 C5 2.5 TDI quattro Avant, which I still own.
 

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Unfortunately, if the arm is broken then the flaps are stuck.

I have a working lower inlet manifold available and could post to Italy (I think).
 
A2Steve said:
Unfortunately, if the arm is broken then the flaps are stuck.

I have a working lower inlet manifold available and could post to Italy (I think).
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Welcome, you're not the only A2OC FSI'er in Italy, @StefanoP is also.
Steve is probably right, but worth checking first, as replacing the manifold is quite a task.
I'm guessing you have the EML illuminated on the dash?
You'll also need a licensed copy of VCDS Lite to "calibrate" the manifold mechanism once it's functional again.
Mac.
 
I was also going to ask if you have confirmed that the actuator arm is indeed broken and not just presumed that it is, as my problem (well one of them) was with the Solenoid Valve which was relatively inexpensive and straightforward to replace and a £50 part 👍
 
A2Steve said:
Sfortunatamente, se il braccio è rotto, i lembi sono bloccati.

Ho a disposizione un collettore di aspirazione inferiore funzionante e potrei spedire in Italia (credo).
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Sarei molto interessato all'acquisto, perché penso di non avere altre alternative al momento da risolvere. Allego la foto del braccio rotto, che non credo sia recuperabile. Toccandolo con mano, si muove su e giù. Ho un VCDS e l'ECU del motore mostra gli errori 17446 e 17439. La spia del motore è spenta. Car is otherwise an October 2002, has 215k km and I'm the 5th owner. I already plan to fit cruise control and leather steering wheel. It has a classic light blue interior, in very good condition considering the age of the car. I also proceeded to fit an aftermarket armrest, a must after having had it on the three previous cars.

A2Z said:
Stavo anche per chiederti se hai confermato che il braccio dell'attuatore è effettivamente rotto e non solo presunto che lo sia, poiché il mio problema (beh uno di questi) era con l'elettrovalvola che era relativamente economica e semplice da sostituire e un £ 50 parti👍
Click to expand...

Could you tell me the part number? I don't understand what it is, thanks.

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A2Z said:
I was also going to ask if you have confirmed that the actuator arm is indeed broken and not just presumed that it is, as my problem (well one of them) was with the Solenoid Valve which was relatively inexpensive and straightforward to replace and a £50 part 👍
Click to expand...
Yup the same situation was with me FYI
 
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Gorevolution said:
Sarei molto interessato all'acquisto, perché penso di non avere altre alternative al momento da risolvere. Allego la foto del braccio rotto, che non credo sia recuperabile. Toccandolo con mano, si muove su e giù. Ho un VCDS e l'ECU del motore mostra gli errori 17446 e 17439. La spia del motore è spenta. Car is otherwise an October 2002, has 215k km and I'm the 5th owner. I already plan to fit cruise control and leather steering wheel. It has a classic light blue interior, in very good condition considering the age of the car. I also proceeded to fit an aftermarket armrest, a must after having had it on the three previous cars.



Could you tell me the part number? I don't understand what it is, thanks.

View attachment 102052
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The P1031 translates (approximately) as inlet flaps fail to reach set point.
It means that the ECU has instructed the flap actuator (the vacum powered device) to move the flaps in the inlet manifold, but that the potentiometer that monitors the flap spindle has not reached the point requested, probably not moved at all.
Google A2OC P1031, for a long read.
Check the vacum actuator first, by connecting a rubber tube in place of the one from the engine, and suck it, if you're doubtful, you can use a syringe to create a vacum, and see if the stem of the actuator moves. I'll attach a bit more info tomorrow.
Meanwhile this will help you understand what should be going on.
The flaps are referred to as "throttle valve" in the SSP253.
Mac.
 

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Gorevolution said:
I would be very interested in buying, because I think I have no other alternatives at the moment to solve. I enclose the photo of the broken arm, which I don't think is recoverable. Touching it with your hand, it moves up and down. I have a VCDS and the engine ECU is showing errors 17446 and 17439. The engine light is off. Car is otherwise an October 2002, has 215k km and I'm the 5th owner. I already plan to fit cruise control and leather steering wheel. It has a classic light blue interior, in very good condition considering the age of the car. I also proceeded to fit an aftermarket armrest, a must after having had it on the three previous cars.



Could you tell me the part number? I don't understand what it is, thanks.

View attachment 102052
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Bouna Sera,

I do not understand how the EML (the yellow engine symbol) can be off with your errors and broken vacuum actuator arm unless the EML has fraudulently been masked out by one means or another, common practice in the UK. Does the EML briefly illuminate at start up?

Does the crank linkage on the manifold to which the vacuum actuator arm connects rotate freely about 30°? If not the flaps are seized by carbon build up and the manifold will have to be cleaned or a clean replacement sourced. The vacuum actuator will need replacing on the original or included in the sale of a used manifold or sourced separately.

A new manifold is available from Audi for about €500 but does not include a vacuum actuator (about €100). The part number is here ...


C i a o.

Andy
 
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Gorevolution said:
Sarei molto interessato all'acquisto, perché penso di non avere altre alternative al momento da risolvere. Allego la foto del braccio rotto, che non credo sia recuperabile. Toccandolo con mano, si muove su e giù. Ho un VCDS e l'ECU del motore mostra gli errori 17446 e 17439. La spia del motore è spenta. Car is otherwise an October 2002, has 215k km and I'm the 5th owner. I already plan to fit cruise control and leather steering wheel. It has a classic light blue interior, in very good condition considering the age of the car. I also proceeded to fit an aftermarket armrest, a must after having had it on the three previous cars.



Could you tell me the part number? I don't understand what it is, thanks.

View attachment 102052
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Yes the original part is manufactured by Pierburg and has lasted best part of 20 years so I went with the same. Actual part number you require is shown on the photos below, taken when i replaced mine a few weeks ago.
(Photo of old part and new part) 👍
 

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ok, prossime cose da verificare: se l'attuatore della depressione funziona e completa la sua corsa di 15mm, se la spia del motore funziona (ma mi sembra di si). Domenica ho smontato il potenziometro e ho notato che il braccio era stato bloccato con una piccola vite. probabilmente qualcuno è già intervenuto per arginare il problema, senza risolverlo. in any case I can't do without replacing the lower manifold, since the arm is broken and does not exist as a spare.
 
Gorevolution said:
ok, prossime cose da verificare: se l'attuatore della depressione funziona e completa la sua corsa di 15mm, se la spia del motore funziona (ma mi sembra di si). Domenica ho smontato il potenziometro e ho notato che il braccio era stato bloccato con una piccola vite. probabilmente qualcuno è già intervenuto per arginare il problema, senza risolverlo. in any case I can't do without replacing the lower manifold, since the arm is broken and does not exist as a spare.
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@A2Steve, or @Clackers may be able to help with a good used manifold assembly.
Wondering if the link piece is som that @depronman could 3D Print?
If so, the manifold assembly you remove could be cleaned, and sold on.
Good luck 🤞.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
@A2Steve, or @Clackers may be able to help with a good used manifold assembly.
Wondering if the link piece is som that @depronman could 3D Print?
If so, the manifold assembly you remove could be cleaned, and sold on.
Good luck 🤞.
Mac.
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I already contacted a 3D printing person in my city, he said he can reproduce the piece with the sample. for this reason I tried to disassemble the arm, but it broke even more. I buy the manifold from Steve and then have an arm reproduced anyway, just in case I'll need it again in the future.
 
Gorevolution said:
I already contacted a 3D printing person in my city, he said he can reproduce the piece with the sample. for this reason I tried to disassemble the arm, but it broke even more. I buy the manifold from Steve and then have an arm reproduced anyway, just in case I'll need it again in the future.
Click to expand...
If you do get a printed copy of the link please share the file here, I'm sure others would benefit.
Mac.
 
Good Evening,

I have had a closer reread and I think I was mistaken last night, ignore my comments.

To start again. I think we all need to be clear on the use of terms, particularly 'arm', it seems to drift.

This black plastic piece is what I will call the 'crank arm'.

1670356517125.png


Notice the central piece that drives the potentiometer is broken off with this example.

Further this is part of the manifold and not a separate part and hence not available separately.

Yours appears to be broken at the top right where it links with the vacuum actuator arm. If this is the case strongly advise to buy A2Steve's used lower manifold.

I too have embarked on trying to remove this crank arm for copying. My exploits so far...


Andy
 
Andrew said:
Good Evening,

I have had a closer reread and I think I was mistaken last night, ignore my comments.

To start again. I think we all need to be clear on the use of terms, particularly 'arm', it seems to drift.

This black plastic piece is what I will call the 'crank arm'.

View attachment 102080

Notice the central piece that drives the potentiometer is broken off with this example.

Further this is part of the manifold and not a separate part and hence not available separately.

Yours appears to be broken at the top right where it links with the vacuum actuator arm. If this is the case strongly advise to buy A2Steve's used lower manifold.

I too have embarked on trying to remove this crank arm for copying. My exploits so far...


Andy
Click to expand...
Crank is correct I reckon. OED says:
"Noun, a part of an axle or shaft bent out at right angles, for converting reciprocal to circular motion and vice versa"

In our application, the crank is driven reciprocally by the linkage, which in turn is driven by the vacuum powered linear actuator.
Mac.
 
Andrew said:
Good Evening,

I have had a closer reread and I think I was mistaken last night, ignore my comments.

To start again. I think we all need to be clear on the use of terms, particularly 'arm', it seems to drift.

This black plastic piece is what I will call the 'crank arm'.

View attachment 102080

Notice the central piece that drives the potentiometer is broken off with this example.

Further this is part of the manifold and not a separate part and hence not available separately.

Yours appears to be broken at the top right where it links with the vacuum actuator arm. If this is the case strongly advise to buy A2Steve's used lower manifold.

I too have embarked on trying to remove this crank arm for copying. My exploits so far...


Andy
Click to expand...
I read your attempt to disassemble the crank, I will follow future developments with great interest, since I wanted to proceed in exactly the same way. I honestly think that piece of plastic, so old and weak, could break again. already having the copy at home would make me feel more comfortable. I saw that here https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/fsi-swirl-flap-actuator-arm-modification.45615/ they reproduced it in brass, but how did they disassemble it?
 
Gorevolution said:
I read your attempt to disassemble the crank, I will follow future developments with great interest, since I wanted to proceed in exactly the same way. I honestly think that piece of plastic, so old and weak, could break again. already having the copy at home would make me feel more comfortable. I saw that here https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/fsi-swirl-flap-actuator-arm-modification.45615/ they reproduced it in brass, but how did they disassemble it?
Click to expand...
I suspect they didn't strip the flaps from the spindle, and remove the spindle. My guess is that they removed the plastic crank from the spindle, cleaned the spindle, and fixed the brass crank to the spindle (love to know how).
It's important to remember that whatever method you use, the new crank, with it's potentiometer drive, has to be precisely aligned with the flap position, or there will still be P1031 errors.
My feeling is that the less disassembly, the less difficult that alignment would be.
Mac.
 
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