Inlet Manifold Help

Chipper

Member
Hello All,

I hope that someone can help me. After a long search for an A2 I finally got one a couple of months ago. All went well to begin with but being an 1.6 I was expecting the engine light to come on. When it did, my local mechanic found out that the previous owner had forgotten (!) to tell me that the inlet manifold flap mechanism had been by-passed. He has offered to reinstated the pipework but I am expecting a bag of trouble with the manifold. I don't really want to jump straight into replacement as I have seen that plenty of people on here have managed to get the mechnism going again, trouble is I am not capable enough of getting into this and my fiendly mechanic isn't keen either.

Does anybody know of someone local to the Cheltenham/Gloucester area who could have a look at this for me? I appreciate any suggestions.

Many Thanks
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
I'm not quite sure how the lower inlet manifold could be by-passed. If the potentiometer had somehow been fixed into place so that the flaps remained open at all times then the engine managemnet light would have certainly been on from the start.
 

Chipper

Member
Hi Steve, Aparently the actuating lines just loop around and never actually connect up to the inlet manifold. My mechanic was also quite confused about how it had been acheived. I can drive it for a few miles until I get the 17439 error code and it doesn't go into limp mode but I think it is down on power versus other 1.6's I have driven.
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
That makes sense. It will be running with the flaps at only around 30% open in that case and will be very down on power.

A good way to tell whether the flaps have had it is to look at the little black rod on the left hand side, if this has snapped then it means the flaps are broken or gunged up and its caused the rod to snap.
 
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Andrew

A2OC Donor
First, sorry to hear you have been swindled to some extent.

Like Steve, reading your first post I too wondered how the flaps could be successively bypassed for two months, implied by your first post. Can I take it this was not the case and you were simply saying you had owned the car for two months and I imagine the EML illuminated early on?

It sounds like the small pipe that drives the vacuum unit (that activates the flaps) has been disconnected, simple matter to put back but the is will achieve nothing except revert to the original problem.

It really needs fixing but it is the MOT due date that may be critical. For some FSI's, EML on = Fail for others not, apparently it depends on date the car was first registered. Assuming you have a breathing space to the next MOT no need to rush into anything. I drove my FSI for three years with this problem, all you are losing is some performance and possibly a little mpg.

You are doing the right thing in seeking a garage with some competence with the FSI but I fear you will have your work cut out finding one, after all there are not that many FSIs around. The bill to expect varies enormously on what is wrong, so many elements in play. The commonest scenario of gummed up flaps resulting in broken vacuum unit arm means strip down and clean, labour intensive say four hours labour, new vacuum unit (~£90) total say £500. Other scenarios range from £100 to £1000.

Nationally there is always WOM but that is a long way away, locally for you maybe something in this Bristol thread...


Happy to try and help further but good luck.

Andy
 

Chipper

Member
Thank you Steve, Andy and Steadman.

You are right, it was like this from the start and I had the EML code cleared a couple of time, hoping it would settle down. The EML doesn't come back on straight away.

I have some time in hand as the previous owner put a new MOT on it but I really want to get it fixed as it's really tidy otherwise. To give even more background the car was garaged for 4 years before the guy I bought it from put it back on the road so I suspect the manifold just needs a good clean. I have tried to go back to him but my calls are not answered.

From what you are saying I guess my next steps are to get the actuating lines reconnected and see what happens! It's good to know that I can drive it in the mean time. I'll also see if I can get a look at it while it's on the ramp.


Thanks, Jeff
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
All good for now then.

I suspect the quite small pipe (blue in Steadman's) between N316 and the Vacuum Accuator has been pulled off at N316 end. No clips, just a push fit onto the valve's ribbed spigot, just wriggle it on, a few minutes work. The problem is access, need to temporary unclip the big fat air intake pipe and push aside but still lots of stuff in the way you need to work through, very fiddly.

Before you do that a simple observation you can do yourself is to inspect the vacuum unit arm and test if it is broken and/or still opens the flaps. You will need some long nose pliers, and it pulls up and if intact you should hear the flaps open. There will be some resistance to opening as you are fighting a spring that closes the flaps when not being opened by the vacuum unit. I can post a picture if you like.

Andy
 
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Chipper

Member
A picture would be a great help if it's not too much trouble. I'd like to see what's going on with the mechnism.

Apparantly the pipework has been removed at "both ends" and connected together.

Jeff
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
A picture would be a great help if it's not too much trouble. I'd like to see what's going on with the mechnism.

Apparantly the pipework has been removed at "both ends" and connected together.

Jeff
No time to take picture now, I will take take it in the morning.

Not sure what you mean by '"both ends" and connected together.

Andy
 

Chipper

Member
Thank-you.

I'm not sure what I mean either as I haven't actually seen it first hand! My mechanic said it was very strange, he has offered to put the pipework back to it's original configuration so I will try to get a look then.

Jeff
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
If you do find that the manifold has had it I’m breaking an FSI at present. Engine is fine but the gearbox has had it.
 

A2 Louis

A2OC Donor
No time to take picture now, I will take take it in the morning.

Not sure what you mean by '"both ends" and connected together.

Andy
Don’t worry about it Andy I have a spare intake here and I can take a picture of that to show @Chipper i also will take a picture of the one that is broken on the car :)

Also welcome @Chipper :)
 

Chipper

Member
Great help, thanks to all. Sorry if I sound a complete beginner (I am) but can I access the arm from the top or do I need to get underneath the car?
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
Great help, thanks to all. Sorry if I sound a complete beginner (I am) but can I access the arm from the top or do I need to get underneath the car?
No worries. Top, very simple, you won't even get your hands dirty. - Andy
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
Good pictures Louis, just an extra for clarity.

Louis's Picture With Arrow.jpg


Jeff,

Grip vacuum unit arm with long nose pliers at tip of red arrow then test gently if it feels broken, does it move side to side or towards you? It should feel quite firm with slight play, if it feels loose it is broken. If it feels okay try moving the arm up towards the vacuum unit, you will have to grip quite hard as there is some resistance to motion. It should move up about 20mm in the available access space. If it will not move the flaps are seized.

I am changing my mind about hearing the flaps open, I now think it is the vacuum unit making a noise.

Andy
 
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