Inlet Manifold Help

And I think it's the opposite of what you said!

We're agreed however that buying odd bits here and there is no way forward at all. New thermostat, new sensor and new housing is definitely the way to go.
I agree what you said it is the opposite of what I said! I am getting a bit lost now, I agree we need clairity. - Andy
 
My brain is pretty fried by all this so apologies if I have missed any of your valuable guidance. I'll check tomorrow but I'm pretty sure that it was just the thermostat that was replaced last month by my local mechanic. However this appears academic as I can't seem to find just the housing. From reading all the threads, the complete Mahle assembly seems to be the way to go. (
Slightly frustrating to have to buy another thermostat but maybe someone on here can benefit from that)
I think that I have found the complete assembly here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genu...006322&hash=item5d9459f134:g:884AAOSw2K5cFw8O)

or here from PIM
(https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coolant-...935734?hash=item36568735f6:g:CjYAAOSwg9RdsprY).
PIM seems to be prefered but there is no photo to check it's the right part. I'll also drop CreweAudi a line.

One final confusion, there are Behr parts available a bit cheaper than Mahle and from a quick google Behr and Mahle appear to be the same company (https://www.autodoc.co.uk/behr-thermot-tronik/7010315).

Thanks again to everyone
 
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My brain is pretty fried by all this so apologies if I have missed any of your valuable guidance. I'll check tomorrow but I'm pretty sure that it was just the thermostat that was replaced last month by my local mechanic. However this appears academic as I can't seem to find just the housing. From reading all the threads, the complete Mahle assembly seems to be the way to go. (
Slightly frustrating to have to buy another thermostat but maybe someone on here can benefit from that)
I think that I have found the complete assembly here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genu...006322&hash=item5d9459f134:g:884AAOSw2K5cFw8O)

or here from PIM
(https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coolant-...935734?hash=item36568735f6:g:CjYAAOSwg9RdsprY).
PIM seems to be prefered but there is no photo to check it's the right part. I'll also drop CreweAudi a line.

One final confusion, there are Behr parts available a bit cheaper than Mahle and from a quick google Behr and Mahle appear to be the same company (https://www.autodoc.co.uk/behr-thermot-tronik/7010315).

Thanks again to everyone
Sympathy, in your position I was initially bewildered as well, it is taxing on the brain.

Either of those main links look good, in fact the PIM with no picture is correct and the one I linked earlier.

No idea about the Behr and Mahle connection, many companies have different competing brands for exactly the same item, might be worth a punt, but I expect the autodoc Behr will not be as cheap as it looks with the final price at checkout.

By all means try Crewe Audi, but I can tell you just the thermostat last year was £78. Nod had a quote from his local Audi for £250 (for the whole lot I assume).

Andy
 
OK, so got the car back and it drives really nicely, and the bill wasn't too painful! only trouble is am am still left with the error code 17439 (set point not reached) which I started with (Grrr). Mechanic tells me that the inlet manifold from A2Steve looked in great condition and he really can't think of any good reason while I am still getting the code. It stays off for a good while but then appears to come on after a stop and restart. Any suggestions?
 
OK, so got the car back and it drives really nicely, and the bill wasn't too painful! only trouble is am am still left with the error code 17439 (set point not reached) which I started with (Grrr). Mechanic tells me that the inlet manifold from A2Steve looked in great condition and he really can't think of any good reason while I am still getting the code. It stays off for a good while but then appears to come on after a stop and restart. Any suggestions?

I may well become an FSI driver as of tomorrow and I think I’m going to take a relaxed approach to the engine management light. If the car is otherwise running well then I’m not going to worry about it.
 
@Chipper, @A2Steve

How disappointing 17439 is still coming back and most puzzling, after all if the flaps have been fixed it should be fixed!

As to suggestions. I know the flap behaviour can be monitored (and logged I assume) with the engine running, I have seen it done, the object being to gain information when the 17439 is triggered. I wonder if the mechanic has done this. Sorry not expert enough to offer detailed VCDS instruction to do this.

My thinking if the flaps are healthy it is the other parts that make up the system.

Two questions.

1. Am I correct in assuming Steve also provided the vacuum actuator and potentiometer with the replacement manifold, as opposed to reusing the existing?

2. I am not clear on the N316 control valve. Is this original and reused by simply conecting properly again or did Steve provide a replacement?

Chin up.

Andy
 
Thanks Andy,

To complete the picture
1) I think so, I didn't carry anything over from the old assembly
2) The control valve fitted to my vehicle was the incorrect part so nod supplied a replacement.

I said I'll bring it back down the RS so that he can have another look. Definetly a puzzle.

Now it appears I have a coolant leak but I suspect it is the reservoir cap as it seems a bit loose. ?

Hopefully I'm getting all the FSI issues out of the way in one go!!!!

Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff for making the picture clear. So everything, all four parts, has been replaced, so a real puzzle.

I know there is a VCDS adaptation process for the flaps, no idea if it is essential, but I expect this has been done, but you could ask for confirmation.

What is your opinion on the state of the old manifold?

Hope it comes back sorted this time.

Andy
 
This link shows what you should do, to set the flaps and actuators up, via VCDS.
Worth asking your mechanic if it was.


Similar, but from rosstech Wiki (2.0 fsi)


Mac.
 
Thanks Jeff for making the picture clear. So everything, all four parts, has been replaced, so a real puzzle.

I know there is a VCDS adaptation process for the flaps, no idea if it is essential, but I expect this has been done, but you could ask for confirmation.

What is your opinion on the state of the old manifold?

Hope it comes back sorted this time.

Andy
Hi Andy,

Actually the old one doesn't look too bad. It all moves freely when cold but it's a bit jammy so I suspect it's not so great when warm. A friend thinks he has a cunning way of cleaning so I'm letting him have a go! I will report back on the results.

Jeff
 
Hi All, Well I had a few months of trouble free motoring but now it appears the vacuum control valve has packed up. I fitted a used one from I'm thinking it's just a bit of bad luck. I have another used one from @nod , it's a Pierburg and it looks virtually new but once bitten.... Do they fail frequently? Also is swapping it over a homework job? Appreciate any comments, as ever.
Jeff
 
I had the valve changed on mine last summer, it too was Pierburg with the Audi rings so we can safely say they were the oem suppliers. It was date marked 6/2003 so original and lasted 14 years and 76k miles. They are not that dear, picked up the identical new Pierburg valve on eBay for £45, only difference the the revision number is now 4 as opposed to the original being revision 1.

As to fitting a 15 minute job for nimble fingers, just two small bolts and the electrical connector. Release the large clip that secures the fat air intake at the top as it bends round and park it higher up, pull the pipe off and move aside to provide access. Pull the small pipes off the valve but leave the connector on to stop it falling into the abyss when you remove it and fish out then disconnect. Remove bolts and likewise danger of dropping bolts into the abyss, I dropped one but luckily found it when the car was moved, would have been easier if I had a magnetic bit holder. Replacement is the reverse of removal to quote the old Haynes manuals.

@A2Steve fitted one a few days ago he might have a different method or tips.

Andy

Edit. Look at the clock face production date on the one from nod to establish its age.
 
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I had the valve changed on mine last summer, it too was Pierburg with the Audi rings so we can safely say they were the oem suppliers. It was date marked 6/2003 so original and lasted 14 years and 76k miles. They are not that dear, picked up the identical new Pierburg valve on eBay for £45, only difference the the revision number is now 4 as opposed to the original being revision 1.

As to fitting a 15 minute job for nimble fingers, just two small bolts and the electrical connector. Release the large clip that secures the fat air intake at the top as it bends round and park it higher up, pull the pipe off and move aside to provide access. Leave the connector on to stop it falling into the abyss when you remove it and fish out then disconnect. Likewise danger of dropping bolts into the abyss, I dropped one but luckily found it when the car was moved, would have been easier if I had a magnetic bit holder.

@A2Steve fitted one a few days ago he might have a different method or tips.

Andy

Edit. Look at the clock face production date on the one from nod to establish its age.
Thanks Andy, I've just had a look, super fiddley but I think I can manage it. Might leave to another day as i'm working outside a concerned about rain getting into the air intake.

I see there are various hoses in the way, is it OK to disconnect those for access?

The clock face indicates 4/02 but that seems very old for the condition it's in.
 
Andrew has the procedure spot on. Not a difficult job at all, take a few minutes.

@Chipper have you looked at the Pro Boost remap thread yet?

Hi Steve, Yes I've read through the post with great interest and echo the others in thanking you for setting this up. If it had been a few months ago I would have jumped at it but I'm so far through now that I can't really justify £250 on top of what I have already spent! That, said I may be back at your door soon to reverse that.....
 
So I took a brave pill at the weekend and swapped over the Valve. I wasn't able to get the "back" bolt back in, primarily because I couldn't see if it was lined up, so it's holding on by one bolt. However, it's on there and the car is working as it should again (and making me grin!). Next step to get it calibrated again and hope the EML goes out.
Cheers, Jeff
 
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