Jacking point to trolley jack converter

there is already something like this in the bmw world:


the rod needs to be longer though as the jack sometimes hits the sill
 
there is already something like this in the bmw world:


the rod needs to be longer though as the jack sometimes hits the sill

Yes! Pretty much exactly that!

It would be good to get a bit more height on it though...


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This is what I did. Cheap and effective.
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4 off 110mm lengths of diameter 20mm steel tube, 3mm wall, fully welded directly under the saddles of my Draper stands, so that they sit in the crutch of the upright tube and the saddle. I took a grinder to the ends to taper them off slightly so that they locate firmly in the holes in the sills. Ideally, the tubes want to point uphill about 10 degrees or so, as the sockets in the A2 sills are not horizontal. I didn't realise that until I had welded mine on ? . The stands can still be used in the conventional way for my other cars.

This is an extremely stable set up and gives very good access to the front and rear subframes. It also leaves clear access to the standard jacking points, so getting the car up and down is easy with a standard 3T trolley jack. I've found the Draper stand to be very solid (they were holding my Multipla up over a full winter once, without showing any ill effects) and they go up to 500mm so leave plenty of room to work under the car. Getting the gearbox in and out, for example, was a doddle.
 
I've done this on my last car (SLK 320) and am about to try it on this one (A2 1.4 TDi). Layout seems very similar, but car is quite a bit narrower so may change how I do it, and need to measure the jack peg. e: TGF above says 20mm so that's saved a trip to the shops.

I've seen some pegs welded to a metal puck before, the idea that the puck fits in the jack saddle. Didn't like the idea; angle between the peg and saddle changes through the jack's throw, so I think it would move and chatter. Move and chatter makes my underwear fill.

On the merc it's a 20mm female port, so I used a high tensile M20 bolt of as long a length as I could get at the local engineering suppliers.

Slip said bolt into the jacking point and leave it with the head about an inch (or however much I felt comfortable) proud. Carefully lift the saddle under the bolt and make sure it's riding flat in the saddle and as centrally as possible if using a rubber puck, or resting against the weld without a puck.

Then jack left rear up gingerly and place a stand with a puck on it, rest the car on the stand and repeat on left front. Check both stands are exactly in position and move to other side. Do rear right, then check all the stands. Do front right, then check all the stands. If a stand is out of perfect alignment jack that point again and recenter stands. Have done it starting at front as well, but don't think there's much it it really, horrid job whatever.

Then I'd generally want to take stands up a couple of notches so I'd repeat the procedure. Then I'd do quite a lot of pushing of the car in every direction and check the stands again. I hate axle stands so much.

Main problem I find with jacking the corners is you invariably end up with two wheels off the ground on the first lift, and you kinda have to chock everything and worry a lot, and there is some lateral shifting of the stand post, which I'm not a fan of. I like to worry, I don't like the idea of getting an idiot squashed by car obit.
 
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Hi,

Is it ok to remove the rubber bung and let the car down on an axle stand with a block of wood to protect the car paint surface and body so its sitting square on the section where the rubber bung was.

Thanks
 
Has anyone ever tried to fabricate or source something to fit into the existing A2 jacking point chassis holes to allow the car to be raised on these using a trolley jack thus leaving the jacking points underneath free for an axle stand (or bricks)?

I’m thinking some tubular steel through a metal post with a shape to fit on a trolley jack head would do the job.

 
2dd4798b8a34b123b109d47b0fc63e68.jpg




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Believe it or not you should already have one (if you have a complete A2 OEM toolkit). It is.......the tow hook eye
 
Just seen this thread. When @datsundrew helped me he had cylindrical rods tubes that went into the horizontal jacking points.

Jacking rods.jpg


Was very stable. Drew will have to say how thick the walls of the cylindrical rods were.
 
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The guys at the WRC service and repair Tents use similar jacks for repairing damaged vehicles ratchet type, no need for axle stands , a fortune to purchase.
 
Just seen this thread. When @datsundrew helped me he had cylindrical rods that went into the horizontal jacking points.

View attachment 116552

Was very stable. Drew will have to say how thick the walls of the cylindrical rods were.
Each to their own but I feel safer using something made of solid steel instead of a tube. Of the two-side by side, doesn't the tube have less shear strength than the solid? There's sure to be a metallurgist on the forum. Someone mentioned using a long 20mm bolt which sounds ideal.
 
Each to their own but I feel safer using something made of solid steel instead of a tube. Of the two-side by side, doesn't the tube have less shear strength than the solid? There's sure to be a metallurgist on the forum. Someone mentioned using a long 20mm bolt which sounds ideal.
Why worry about a tube? The O.E. jack is an aluminium tube.

I have only jacked up my A2 a handful of times, and having the jack point the same as the Axle stand point always irked me. Now I know what I am going to do in the future. I will also try the towing eye idea, and having the rear stands use the jack point adaptor too.
means I can get my welder out :)
 
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