Jay's 1.4SE aka second chance

Quelle surprise
I won’t make the mistake a lot of people make though of chucking an engine flush through. I’ve always found them to make the engine clacky.
Instead I’ll do a few oil changes in quick succession and hope that this cleans out the grime and crud ??
 
I won’t make the mistake a lot of people make though of chucking an engine flush through. I’ve always found them to make the engine clacky.
Instead I’ll do a few oil changes in quick succession and hope that this cleans out the grime and crud ??
You may wish to consider 20L of Mannol - take a read if not done already
 
Cambelt done ✔️ was happy when it all fired up and warmed up nicely.
Looking at the date stamps on the old parts I took off, the pulleys were stamped 2007 and the water pump was a genuine VW one date stamped 2000!!!! I was gobsmacked ?

Also completed a service on it along with plugs and pollen filter, finally it’s ready for the road.
Still lots to do, the bodywork needs attention, especially the vandal damaged that was badly touched up, lots more touching in and flatting back there to be done.
 
Finally got the chance to take the car out for a drive today.
First impressions were quite mixed, it needs to be revved for it to get up and go. The gear change is very hit and miss and there are still a few clunks when going over bumps .
Now it’s on the road I’m hoping I can sort these issues out quickly, however I have a feeling the front shocks may need to come off again
 
back on with the bodywork today......

At some point in the cars past it has been keyed all across the bonnet, right hand side and tailgate.

first job was to backfill the scratch with the correct colour, from there I will leave it 24 hours and then wet flat it back.
after that it lacquer will be added, so in order to do this properly I can't fill the scratch entirely with the base coat as once the lacquer is dry I will again wet flat it so its completely smooth and then polish to a shine.
the initial fill with the base coat

Right hand side

bonnet

Tailgate, which has oxidation on it as well, I would love to fit another pine green tailgate if I could find one instead of fixing this one

As I progress thought this I will update
 
Busy again on the bodywork yesterday and today.
Bonnet is nearly done, I have a few videos to post up on YouTube, once I’ve done that I’ll post them up here.
Because the weather was nicer today I got the car out of the garage and did some work on the body side, by the time I’d finished this is why the car looked like
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I could still see where the scratch was so more touch up paint was added to level the scratch, I’ll leave that to dry and flat those specific areas back. Once that’s done it will then be polished using a rotary polish, wool pad and scholl s20 compound.
 
Great stuff still. Wheels soon? Mine are in exactly the same state! Also I have some mould/mildew spots on the passender seat bottom bolster. Any good tips as your a master at this ;-)
 
Great stuff still. Wheels soon? Mine are in exactly the same state! Also I have some mould/mildew spots on the passender seat bottom bolster. Any good tips as your a master at this ;-)
Thanks, the wheels are I the list to do, I also need to get some centrecaps as well.

your mould/mildew issue: first because of the potential of mould spores I would suggest a mask and gloves to protect yourself.
Bilt Hamber Surfex HD is about the best all purpose cleaner, diluted 10:1, spray on the affected area and with a stiff brush agitate the surfex.
Wipe off with a dry cloth or if you have one something like a vax then use that to draw out the sprayed on liquid.
Surfex is brilliant and can be used through the car as a surface cleaner.
 
One of the outstanding jobs on project second chance has been the NS door lock, it has never worked and VCDS has never been able to talk to it either.

@Clackers kindly supplied me with the door lock a few weeks ago so today I stripped the door out, looks like someone has been there before me!!

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My new one is on the right, the old one has really been butchered.

Also I know the A2 was a technically advanced car but I’m pretty sure that Audi hadn’t come up with wireless door locking motors!! My car has no loom going to the door lock at all, I can’t even find where it should have been.
There’s no spare looms in the door at all, the window motor has 3 connectors going to it and I can’t see any wiring looms that have been chopped.
Can anyone advise where the door locking loom should come from?


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Is this a front door? I have a picture of where this wire comes from on a rear door with electric windows and without attached. I think a front door should be similar to the rear with the window motors. I have marked the door lock cables in orange. Where there is a window regulator the cable to the lock module runs from the reg to the door lock (right picture). If the car has wind up rear windows then the cable comes on the same harness that runs to the speaker (left picture).

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This is the front door I’m having problems with, however I can’t imagine the wiring is much different between the front and rear door and looking at your diagram it appears that the wiring I am looking for comes out of the control unit that’s part of the window regulator and then goes to the doorlock motor.

If that is the case then it looks like mine has been butchered in the past, no real surprise there given the number of bodges that this car has had on it!!


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im starting to enjoy driving it a bit more now, it still throws up random error messages to do with ABS and Steering and ive been working through the possibility......
Until the car scared the hell out of me this evening!!!
Driving along the country roads round here in Devon and come to a left-right-left that's quite nice to drive as the camber is right, the surface is good and you can carry a bit of speed through the series of corners.
Halfway into the first corner the steering went really light, and by that I mean parking speed light, it seems the abs signal confused the ecu and it thought I was at 5mph not 55 mph!!!:oops:
So tonight I ordered two wheel bearings and two abs sensors, I knew one was a bit noisy so i'm guessing this means the front suspension has to come apart again.

At some point I will have this car running properly
 
I would do a VCDS scan and see what pops up. Could be the lateral accelerometer not sensing the "g" changes in the car. Early cars had 2 sensors later ones a combined single sensor.
 
I would do a VCDS scan and see what pops up. Could be the lateral accelerometer not sensing the "g" changes in the car. Early cars had 2 sensors later ones a combined single sensor.

The only code at the moment is intermittent abs signal on the o/s/f.

At parking speeds the steering is really heavy, almost like it has no power assistance.
At speed it gets lighter, at 70 it genuinely feels like there is no connect between the column and rack.
From my ancient knowledge whilst in the garage we had issues like this on variable rate power steering and a lot of the time the abs sensors were to blame.
However this project was sat in a field for a while and I wonder if the abs ring is damaged as well.

The bearings are howling anyway so it’s as good a place to start as any, I know that may sound flippant but it not


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No, not at all. You could try giving the reluctor rings a good spraying but they are quite well protected. The wear in the bearings could be enough to trigger the ABS warning, just make sure the proper tools are used to remove and fit the bearings. I would methodically work from front to back on the car removing every single wiring connector, cleaning it removing any corrosion and making sure there is no plug or insulation damage. The power steering pump can be exposed to water as it sits low behind the bumper, there is enough CHF in the reservoir? No strange noises or leaks from the steering rack. Track rod ends can have all sorts of strange effects on the steering - they may not be worn but could be rusty. Front struts are serviceable, no broken springs and top mount bearings not seized up?
 
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