Jump starting

Hi. I've had a quick search on here but couldn't find the specific answer so apols if it's there somewhere already! As we know, the A2 has its battery in the back. We probably also know that some (all?) cars which have the battery in the back can also be jump-started if need be from under the car's bonnet. Is this the case for the A2? And if so, can anyone tell me where to connect the jump start leads to under the A2 bonnet, which I would run from the other vehicle? I do have a specific reason for asking, which I shan't bore you with unless necessary. Thanks in advance!
 
Hi. I've had a quick search on here but couldn't find the specific answer so apols if it's there somewhere already! As we know, the A2 has its battery in the back. We probably also know that some (all?) cars which have the battery in the back can also be jump-started if need be from under the car's bonnet. Is this the case for the A2? And if so, can anyone tell me where to connect the jump start leads to under the A2 bonnet, which I would run from the other vehicle? I do have a specific reason for asking, which I shan't bore you with unless necessary. Thanks in advance!

Could connect to the starter directly


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... which is going to be a pain in the neck if I've understood correctly. I would connect directly to the battery and not to the convenient M6 or whatever it is stud next to the battery. There's a 150A fuse directly connected between the two and you may blow that fuse if the charge difference is big enough. Open the boot, do it the right way. You can probably also charge the battery via the cigarette lighter if you need to, it should be able to shove 5-10A back into the system without issue.

Personally, I now have a Ctek MKS 7 with a quick release in the boot connected with M6 eyelets and it's rather good.

- Bret
 
... which is going to be a pain in the neck if I've understood correctly. I would connect directly to the battery and not to the convenient M6 or whatever it is stud next to the battery. There's a 150A fuse directly connected between the two and you may blow that fuse if the charge difference is big enough. Open the boot, do it the right way. You can probably also charge the battery via the cigarette lighter if you need to, it should be able to shove 5-10A back into the system without issue.

Personally, I now have a Ctek MKS 7 with a quick release in the boot connected with M6 eyelets and it's rather good.

- Bret

Hi. Thanks. Can't open boot because battery is flat and manual release cable is seized, hence my original question! Thanks anyway. (Other advice welcome to solve this conundrum).
 
Thanks for the input so far. Quick update: I bought a cigarette lighter starter booster online and although the car's own battery was completely flat the booster was strong enough to operate the central locking, so I gained access to the boot that way and was able to charge the battery with my mains charger. As a final tidying up I'd like to repair the manual boot release mechanism, the failure of which is the original reason I couldn't get into the boot. The trim inside the tailgate doesn't seem to have any screws. To remove it, do I just go for the edges with the old tape-covered screwdriver or plastic alternative? Or is there a particular trick to its removal? Cheers.
 
Thanks for the input so far. Quick update: I bought a cigarette lighter starter booster online and although the car's own battery was completely flat the booster was strong enough to operate the central locking, so I gained access to the boot that way and was able to charge the battery with my mains charger. As a final tidying up I'd like to repair the manual boot release mechanism, the failure of which is the original reason I couldn't get into the boot. The trim inside the tailgate doesn't seem to have any screws. To remove it, do I just go for the edges with the old tape-covered screwdriver or plastic alternative? Or is there a particular trick to its removal? Cheers.

There you can see clips of the trim:

 
There you can see clips of the trim:


Thanks. Trim came off without too much difficulty. I can see that the cable connector had somehow pulled out of the little hole designed for it on the manual boot release lever under the trim. The tailgate lock itself was very stiff, not quite seized but in need of lubrication so I doused it liberally with the trusty WD40 and it's much better now. Now for the tricky part - re-attaching the cable to the lever and the trim to the bootlid!
 
Thanks. Trim came off without too much difficulty. I can see that the cable connector had somehow pulled out of the little hole designed for it on the manual boot release lever under the trim. The tailgate lock itself was very stiff, not quite seized but in need of lubrication so I doused it liberally with the trusty WD40 and it's much better now. Now for the tricky part - re-attaching the cable to the lever and the trim to the bootlid!
WD40 is not renown as a long time lubricant, I would think a spot of grease is in order. If it's any helpI put a few comments together on refixing the boot trim here.

Andy
 
WD40 is not renown as a long time lubricant, I would think a spot of grease is in order. If it's any helpI put a few comments together on refixing the boot trim here.

Andy
Thanks Andy. I take your point about the grease and I particularly welcome the point about the masking tape to line up the fixing points. I'm giving it a try this afternoon so fingers crossed. Cheers.
 
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