Just bought a property - DIY advice wanted!

I agree that if you dont need that height re fitting the windows as fixed is better, it looks like the source of the issue is someone bodge it into its current state so going back to original may be eassiest. Id keep windows rather than block it up as its amazing how much light something like that lets in. In terms of making water tight and warm, be careful about how far you want to go. Obviously visible water is a bad thing, but if you go crazy on insulation and get it wrong condensation is a thing. My Eilse lives in an old cow shed wiht a gate one end, but as the roof is sound and its "well ventilated" its probably the most dry storage I have. Its fine to work in most weathers with a space heater occasionally, but then im Cornwall so its never -10 or anything.
 
Oh and look at all the guttering and water shedding, ideally have a good look around in a heavy rain storm as you might find something thats sending water to places you dont want it thats simple to resolve. Bad external drainage can make any internal work pointless.
 
The first thing I would do is make the windows part of the front, not part of the doors, as it was probably originally.

RAB
 
Oh and look at all the guttering and water shedding, ideally have a good look around in a heavy rain storm as you might find something thats sending water to places you dont want it thats simple to resolve. Bad external drainage can make any internal work pointless.
Yes there are hedges right next to two sides of the building that are heavily overgrown and I think are sending water through the walls (which are just a single skin of stout planks butted up against each other) - so first job is to wade in with the petrol hedge cutters and tame it all.

Also there is a very small gap around the bottom of the planks that allows dirt / debris to come in during strong wind - and also water when it’s wet. I am not sure how best to make the building water tight and warm. More research needed!

Here’s a shot of me putting up my new shelving - it’s galvanised steel supports with aluminium shelves that are rated to 200kg each - very pleased with it and I can extend it very easily.

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If you want to make it watertight and can get around the back and sides, id personally install vapour barrier and clad the outside. The timber skin seems fairly substantial and you will want to protect that over the years and getting it clad will will also saving on wood treatment / preservatives. Go for a non fade UPVC cladding, plenty of colours available, if that floats your boat

You can also dig a small stone filled ditch around and extending the cladding into this of your wall and base gap is to large, to stop that debris coming in during strong winds and surface water will have somewhere to drain into.

Vapour barrier, timber batterns and then cladding to battens.

If the roof is plain metal sheets and has no insulation, id would not make it too well insulated and wind free. The last thing you want is metal "sweating"

A metal roof 'sweating' is a result of excess humidity condensing on the underside of your roof. Metal roofs are known for this, with condensation forming particularly at the beginning and end of a day. The prime reason for this is due to the temperature differential between the inside and the outside of the shed.

 
How about a piece or angle iron or aluminium screwed along the edge of the warped door, top to bottom. That will stop the warp and the you can add a lock top and bottom to bring the door back in level with the good door.

Not long term, but a fix for now.

Ian
 
If you want to make it watertight and can get around the back and sides, id personally install vapour barrier and clad the outside. The timber skin seems fairly substantial and you will want to protect that over the years and getting it clad will will also saving on wood treatment / preservatives. Go for a non fade UPVC cladding, plenty of colours available, if that floats your boat

You can also dig a small stone filled ditch around and extending the cladding into this of your wall and base gap is to large, to stop that debris coming in during strong winds and surface water will have somewhere to drain into.

Vapour barrier, timber batterns and then cladding to battens.

If the roof is plain metal sheets and has no insulation, id would not make it too well insulated and wind free. The last thing you want is metal "sweating"

A metal roof 'sweating' is a result of excess humidity condensing on the underside of your roof. Metal roofs are known for this, with condensation forming particularly at the beginning and end of a day. The prime reason for this is due to the temperature differential between the inside and the outside of the shed.

Thanks for this. Some good ideas here and I like the cladding idea.

Roof - Some of it is definitely corrugated plastic (clear panels) - I'll need to check the rest.
 
How about a piece or angle iron or aluminium screwed along the edge of the warped door, top to bottom. That will stop the warp and the you can add a lock top and bottom to bring the door back in level with the good door.

Not long term, but a fix for now.

Ian

I was thinking exactly this to be honest Ian - If I went straight for this then I think I may be able try leaving the windows on the doors (as the angle iron would run up to them and bring them back into line along with correcting at least some of the warping - Then rehanging to doors using coach bolts so they shut correctly (currently the really warped one fouls the other door as it has sagged) and is secure. I could then put a small canopy using clear corrugated plastic roofing over the top just 10-15cm or so to stop the water getting behind the doors.
 
Spike,

This is where we get to the second biggie that needs addressing: There is no insulation and the entire building is single skin - from the inside you can see daylight between some of the (admittedly thick) wooden planks. The building has been constructed like this on a concrete platform with steel posts and corrugated plastic roof, very much like farm buildings are round here if they’re not all steel.

Therefore, water gets in a little during heavy storms in some places around the sides and it’s going to be freezing in there during winter. I’m just wondering, after the doors have been made secure (excellent suggestion re: coachbolts) and watertight, what’s the most effective yet easiest way of achieving this. Any ideas here would also be appreciated.

Thanks
Consider adding insulation and cladding to the outside. The cladding should make the "walls" water tight.
Sounds like a new roof is required. Board and felt, with insulation inside.
Mac.
 
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Ok, it’s not perfect but as an interim while I figure out what I’m doing with the garage overall, it’s coming on nicely to make it secure and dry (once the glass is in and I’ve got a little clear plastic canopy roof over the windows. All the old window frames on the top were rotten, the doors themselves were saveable once the right one was rehung and braced.

@k7aus - As a side note, the roof is indeed sweaty during the day - with condensation on the inside. So a new roof would be needed as well as horizontal cladded (outside) and vapour barriers stud walls on the inside.

I’m sure I’ll be back for further advice around DIY aspects if that’s ok.
 
The doors seem to swap round in these two last pictures????? - Andy
Oh yes I hadn’t noticed that, my camera was having trouble uploading pics but then seemed to fix itself. The bolt is on the righ5 door looking at it so you’ll have to imagine that.
 
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