Key Mechanism problem

audifan said:
Do Irish cars have remote central locking?

If not then the lack of bridge piece between the external lock and internal mechanism may not be setting the deadlock thus the door can be opened by pulling the handle twice.

Tom @timmus I am sure you can explain if this is a possibility or if there are multiple issues here at play.

Was there an issue before the OP removed the mechanism to "fix" a microswitch? Or did that cause an issue inside the mechanism?
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The car has many door issues that I’m working through. The remote central locking locks and unlocks the car, but the locks click every 30 seconds or so when the car is unlocked and ignition is off. I’m hoping the new driver’s door controller will sort this, but I’m possibly looking at a new CCCU.

I’m glad to hear that the car isn’t meant to be this easy to break into.


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abailie said:
The remote central locking locks and unlocks the car, but the locks click every 30 seconds or so when the car is unlocked and ignition is off
Click to expand...
Afternoon,

Not a compmete font of all knowledge on this subject but can confirm that upon receipt of Project PDK, it had this exact fault, whereby the locks would cycle both locked and unlocked when the ignition was off.

I tested the door modules and all was good. I swapped the CCCU over which has since fully cured the problem.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
abailie said:
The car has many door issues that I’m working through. The remote central locking locks and unlocks the car, but the locks click every 30 seconds or so when the car is unlocked and ignition is off. I’m hoping the new driver’s door controller will sort this, but I’m possibly looking at a new CCCU.

I’m glad to hear that the car isn’t meant to be this easy to break into.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Being a 2001 car according to your profile, it very likely has a P- or Q-suffix CCCU, which are now failing quite frequently - the locks cycling every 30s is one of the common failure modes. @A2Steve has a later generation AF CCCU with 2 fob remotes available on the Market right now (I'm sure he won't be short of a door controller either). If your car has the same number of electric windows and the same rear bumper (i.e. PDC/non-PDC) as the car it came out of, it should be a straight swap into your car. Otherwise some coding will be necessary to make it suitable for your car, but it could be sent to @timmus to do that and then send on to you.
 
Proghound said:
Being a 2001 car according to your profile, it very likely has a P- or Q-suffix CCCU, which are now failing quite frequently - the locks cycling every 30s is one of the common failure modes. @A2Steve has a later generation AF CCCU with 2 fob remotes available on the Market right now (I'm sure he won't be short of a door controller either). If your car has the same number of electric windows and the same rear bumper (i.e. PDC/non-PDC) as the car it came out of, it should be a straight swap into your car. Otherwise some coding will be necessary to make it suitable for your car, but it could be sent to @timmus to do that and then send on to you.
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Thanks, totally missed @A2Steve's post. I've been looking out for one. I've put in a request now.
 
Job done.
As soon as I shone a light into the door frame I could see the flexible, spring-type rod that joins the barrel and the lock mech. I could get hold of the rod and manoeuvre it, and I could feel the hole in the mech where it should fit, but I couldn't bend the rod enough to get it into the hole. Once I released the mech from the door frame it took a matter of seconds to locate the rod into position. I didn't need to release the lock barrel.

Here's a picture of the rod sitting out of position:

door lock misallignment 1.jpg


I've drawn a blue box around the rod, and a red box around the hole it's meant to be inserted into.

Here's the side of door with the two bolts removed so the lock mech can be moved. These are spline bolts (M8 I think) rather than Torx.

IMG_1553.jpeg


And then here is the internal view again with the rod in the correct position:

IMG_1566.jpeg


Andrew
 
Fantastic pictures just what I was wondering too uncanny!!

So to remove the latch the lock barrel can be left in situ so long as you slacken the latch and remove the rod just as yours was prior I gather
 
Howey said:
Fantastic pictures just what I was wondering too uncanny!!

So to remove the latch the lock barrel can be left in situ so long as you slacken the latch and remove the rod just as yours was prior I gather
Click to expand...

You need to release the solid metal rod that runs vertically - pull the plastic collar down, then the rod comes out the side. The flexible rod from the barrel will come out by itself when the lock mech is moved.


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Congratulations on reconnecting the key barrel to the internal lock. I assume you can now lock and open the drivers door on the key?Now you have done this can you confirm that the car does indeed deadlock when it is locked either on the key or by the remote?

Now you can list the other issues you have with the locks, if it is cycling the locks with the ignition off then unlikely to be a door controller probably the CCCU. Is it cycling the locks while driving?
 
audifan said:
Congratulations on reconnecting the key barrel to the internal lock. I assume you can now lock and open the drivers door on the key?Now you have done this can you confirm that the car does indeed deadlock when it is locked either on the key or by the remote?

Now you can list the other issues you have with the locks, if it is cycling the locks with the ignition off then unlikely to be a door controller probably the CCCU. Is it cycling the locks while driving?
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure the door will work properly now. The door itself is locking and unlocking on the key, but I have the battery disconnected at the minute and I haven't managed to reassemble the door yet because I got dragged through all nine circles of hell (Ikea) this afternoon, so I can't test the central locking side of things just yet - I might get back out tomorrow.

My main issues are:
  • Battery drains really quickly - hence battery disconnected
  • Door locks click every thirty seconds or so when the car is unlocked, (this stops when the car is started)
  • Passenger door not registering that it has opened (It was fixing this issue on the drivers door that lead to this thread)
  • Passenger door window switch not working
I have an AF CCCU unit coming from @A2Steve (thanks @Proghound) on Tuesday, which I'm hoping will sort the battery drain and doors clicking.
I'll take the passenger door apart next weekend and try to fix the lock mech and replace the window switch (previously bought from A2Steve)

Other things I'm working on at the minute:
  • I've got the dash out and dismantled to fit the 3D Color MFD, which arrived yesterday. It's a full DIS version, but has never shown more than a few unintelligible pixels since we owned the car. I got a cheapy (£10) replacement a while back and fitted it, but it only worked for a few weeks before dying, so I took the plunge on the colour DIS rather than paying for a more expensive replacement DIS screen. So far I have all the old components removed, but haven't started cutting tracks or wiring in the new module.
  • I've the boot area pulled apart to replace the alarm sounder as the old one had corroded to death - New sounder is fitted and working but while in there I discovered the next issue:
  • There is damp above the passenger side C pillar, which I think is related to the Opensky roof. Not exactly sure where to start on this, but I'm leaving the boot dismantled until I start looking at it (I'll have to start a new thread to ask questions about that one I reckon)
Cheers,

Andrew
 
Does the passenger door window go up and down on the drivers door switch? It could be a switch issue the passenger door controller or even the drives door controller including a loose or corroded connection.

The lock cycling may just be the CCCU not seeing the passenger door lock ststus correctly rather than the CCCU itself.
 
audifan said:
Does the passenger door window go up and down on the drivers door switch? It could be a switch issue the passenger door controller or even the drives door controller including a loose or corroded connection.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it can be opened from the driver's side. I reckoned since it was working ok from the driver's side that the most likely cause of the problem was the switch, followed by the cable from the switch to the door controller, then the actual door controller itself.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
abailie said:
You need to release the solid metal rod that runs vertically - pull the plastic collar down, then the rod comes out the side. The flexible rod from the barrel will come out by itself when the lock mech is moved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Did you need to remove the window regulator to get the lock unit out?
 
For the front locks the window sub frame does not get removed, but for the rear door locks you first need to remove the window sub frame.

In both cases the interior trim panel and the inner metal panel needs to be removed and anything attached to it.
 
Hopefully you did not reconnect the cable to the interior handle like that. The hook is upside down and will cause issues with the interior handle like that. The opening needs to point upwards and hook into the handle from below.
 
abailie said:
Battery drains really quickly - hence battery disconnected
Click to expand...
It might be a parasitic draw or the battery is getting old, or both.
Take the battery out, check voltage with multimeter every 24 hours for a few days, and see how it drops. It'd stay solid over 12v, even -0.3v drop indicates battery is getting bad.
When I did that, mine went from 12.1v to 9.3v in 3 days, so it was clear the battery was toast.
 
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