KKL Diagnostic Interface Cable and VCDS Lite

Thanks for clearing that up everyone. Is HexCan the official rosstech cable for their full fat VCDS then?


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Basically, yes.

But I just spotted why the price was lower than when I bought mine, the one in the link I added above is a "Home use" one that works on just three cars, it must check and store the VIN to limit you to the three car maximum.

Steve B
 
The official "full fat" VCDS cable and software is not far short of £300. CORRECTION, it is £225 including VAT and UK delivery!!! (Gone down in price I am sure)

https://www.gendan.co.uk/vcds-hex-usb-can.php


It was worth it to me since I have 7 A2s to look after (family).

Steve B

You can pay another £169 to upgrade to 10 vin then another £169 for unlimited should you need future expansion apparently.


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Also, Ross-Tech say they'll allow the full cost of VCDS Lite against an upgrade to a "full fat" version, so if you outgrow the lite version it's not wasted money.
 
Hoping someone can help me out here. I've got a couple of hours spare this evening so I thought I'd try to get the generic KKL cable working that I bought on ebay some while ago. It's proving to be a frustrating business!

I downloaded the last of the drivers suitable for Windows XP from the FTDI site link earlier in this thread. That installed without a hitch and after switching the cable around the two or three USB ports on this old T60 Thinkpad, got the cable and driver to hook up; went into the Windows settings for the cable and set the Baud rate to 9600. VCDS seems happy with the cable when I run the test in the Options section, telling me that it's a generic cable (not a Ross Tech one) and that latency is 'excellent'.

However, when I try to run the OBD-II test, it just doesn't work at all; it goes through the 'Try 1, Try 2...' test but it always comes back telling me that the car is not OBD-II compatible. I've tried with both the ignition off and at key position 1 - makes no odds.

What else can I try? I'm trying to run a diagnostic test to get to the bottom of an ABS fault light that keeps on appearing when I take a right hand bend at 35mph+. The light goes if I stop and restart, then comes back again if I do another RH bend. It's very repeatable! Suspect a dodgy yaw rate sensor, though I've seen one or two comment on here that make me think it may be down to a weak battery.
 
Hoping someone can help me out here. I've got a couple of hours spare this evening so I thought I'd try to get the generic KKL cable working that I bought on ebay some while ago. It's proving to be a frustrating business!

I downloaded the last of the drivers suitable for Windows XP from the FTDI site link earlier in this thread. That installed without a hitch and after switching the cable around the two or three USB ports on this old T60 Thinkpad, got the cable and driver to hook up; went into the Windows settings for the cable and set the Baud rate to 9600. VCDS seems happy with the cable when I run the test in the Options section, telling me that it's a generic cable (not a Ross Tech one) and that latency is 'excellent'.

However, when I try to run the OBD-II test, it just doesn't work at all; it goes through the 'Try 1, Try 2...' test but it always comes back telling me that the car is not OBD-II compatible. I've tried with both the ignition off and at key position 1 - makes no odds.

What else can I try? I'm trying to run a diagnostic test to get to the bottom of an ABS fault light that keeps on appearing when I take a right hand bend at 35mph+. The light goes if I stop and restart, then comes back again if I do another RH bend. It's very repeatable! Suspect a dodgy yaw rate sensor, though I've seen one or two comment on here that make me think it may be down to a weak battery.

Check the com port you have it on in device manager and make sure this matches VCDS


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Check the com port you have it on in device manager and make sure this matches VCDS


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The curious thing is that if I set the cable to COM1, when I run the connection test in VCDS Lite I have to select COM3 to get it to hook up. Selecting COM1, 2 or 4 returns a no-go. I had a few more goes last night, messing around with low baud rates etc, but I still haven't got it to connect to the car.

I'm still looking for a solution!
 
Have you got another laptop you can plug it into?
Just might be a problem with the current laptop, only guessing here mind.
 
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