Lots of electrical issues

[Jayw13702]

My project car has lacked a bit of love over the last few years, this is apparent in the number of issues that have been left to manifest themselves.
Currently the following doesn’t work that I can establish.

No wipers - washers work no problem
Central locking is a bit temperamental on the rear doors, won’t unlock off the key in the lock but will unlock when I press the button on the drivers door
Rear tailgate solenoid not working
Fuel flap solenoid not working
Heater is making some strange noises like it’s trying to move solenoids

The car is 20 years old so I’m expecting some issues but I’m wondering if there are certain earth points I should be looking at before replacing parts.
Battery is brand new but when the engine is running the alternator light glows very dimly

Thanks in advance


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[bretti_kivi]

there's a guide to the earth points listed clearly in the forum.

You will need to scan the car to get to the bottom of the rest of the issues.

- Bret

 

[Jayw13702]

there's a guide to the earth points listed clearly in the forum.

You will need to scan the car to get to the bottom of the rest of the issues.

- Bret

Thanks I’ll have a look through the forum for the earth info.

When you say scan do you mean with something like VCDS/VagCom


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[PlasticMac]

Check out the battery too. Needs to be at least 13.8 volts under load (dipped or main on).

 

[Jayw13702]

Check out the battery too. Needs to be at least 13.8 volts under load (dipped or main on).

I ran a quick test a few nights ago with a generic plug in obd reader, it was 13.5v on idle which I though was quite low, I should have expecting to see 14.2v normally I believe


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[PlasticMac]

I ran a quick test a few nights ago with a generic plug in obd reader, it was 13.5v on idle which I though was quite low, I should have expecting to see 14.2v normally I believe


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Under load is best. No load (ign on, lights on, engine not running), voltage doesn't mean much. It's the battery's ability to maintain voltage under load that gives the best guide to it's health.
I agree, 13.5 volts no load is low.
Mac.

 

[simon martyn]

I think a word with @timmus would be a sensible notion. Not ideal geographicallly, but without doubt the most learned guy with a2 elecrics.
Top man as well.

Best of luck, and welcome to this merry band.

Regards

Simon

 

[Alan_uk]

Here is a thread with photos and a diagram of the earth points. The diagram has 12 earth points but not all are labelled. But the earth behind the nearside headlight and the strap from the engine to the chassis are the 2 that come up most often. I suspect due to vibration and exposure to the elements.

Information - Electrical - A2 earth points

Attached are pictures for the Earth Points on the A2 :cool: NOTE: 1.6FSi Owners I have found that these cables are faulty in 3 cases (all on 2003 models!). It appears that the cable is clean at ends and makes good contact onto body, but if you look under the sleeve, it has corroded to the...

www.a2oc.net

I used google search of "site:a2oc.net poor earth headlight" You are lucky in that the thread above is dated 2008 and still has its pictures - most threads from that far back have lost their pictures due to software changes.

 

[BJohan]

I had a few of your problems.

Wipers: bad earth. Add an extra earth wire to the wiper motor
Central locking: replace cccu. I had exactly this fault
Fluel flap: probably the drivers door micro switch error. When you open the drivers door, does the cabin light up? If not it is the micro switch.

 

[Jayw13702]

Finally managed to get into the garage today and spend some time on the car

Armed with a multimeter I first tested the alternator, it’s kicking out 14.4v so that’s a relief.
I had noticed that when the ignition is switched on the battery light doesn’t appear but does glow lightly when the engine is running, the culprit

The plug wasn’t seating correctly on the voltage regulator and so was giving a false reading. Cleaned up and properly seated the battery is getting 14.4v and 14.2v under load, the light is out when the engine is on and on when the ignition is switched on, that’s a win in my book

The wiper motor is proving more tricky, there is a 4 pin connector on the motor, one earth, one live and two that I’m guessing are pulsed for the low and high speed

Pin 1 and 2 are registering 0.23v
Pin 3 is 12v
Pin 4 is earth.

Judging by the state of the multi plug I’m guessing someone has been here before but very heavy handed.
Checking the relay it seems that someone has been at that as well, I would have expected the relay to click when I switched the stalk but nothing, however that whole area where the cccu unit and relays sit looks very ratty

The motor isn’t seized so it looks like it may need a replacement.

Tailgate solenoid and fuel flap solenoid have no power to them when they are operated, are these controlled by the CCCU?

Finally I found this in the garage.

I used it last to connect to an 03 sharan/galaxy, if I download VCDS will this work with my A2?


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[Erlingtheelder]

Finally managed to get into the garage today and spend some time on the car

Armed with a multimeter I first tested the alternator, it’s kicking out 14.4v so that’s a relief.
I had noticed that when the ignition is switched on the battery light doesn’t appear but does glow lightly when the engine is running, the culprit

The plug wasn’t seating correctly on the voltage regulator and so was giving a false reading. Cleaned up and properly seated the battery is getting 14.4v and 14.2v under load, the light is out when the engine is on and on when the ignition is switched on, that’s a win in my book

The wiper motor is proving more tricky, there is a 4 pin connector on the motor, one earth, one live and two that I’m guessing are pulsed for the low and high speed

Pin 1 and 2 are registering 0.23v
Pin 3 is 12v
Pin 4 is earth.

Judging by the state of the multi plug I’m guessing someone has been here before but very heavy handed.
Checking the relay it seems that someone has been at that as well, I would have expected the relay to click when I switched the stalk but nothing, however that whole area where the cccu unit and relays sit looks very ratty

The motor isn’t seized so it looks like it may need a replacement.

Tailgate solenoid and fuel flap solenoid have no power to them when they are operated, are these controlled by the CCCU?

Finally I found this in the garage.

I used it last to connect to an 03 sharan/galaxy, if I download VCDS will this work with my A2?


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Should do

 

[Leopard680]

Finally managed to get into the garage today and spend some time on the car

Armed with a multimeter I first tested the alternator, it’s kicking out 14.4v so that’s a relief.
I had noticed that when the ignition is switched on the battery light doesn’t appear but does glow lightly when the engine is running, the culprit

The plug wasn’t seating correctly on the voltage regulator and so was giving a false reading. Cleaned up and properly seated the battery is getting 14.4v and 14.2v under load, the light is out when the engine is on and on when the ignition is switched on, that’s a win in my book

The wiper motor is proving more tricky, there is a 4 pin connector on the motor, one earth, one live and two that I’m guessing are pulsed for the low and high speed

Pin 1 and 2 are registering 0.23v
Pin 3 is 12v
Pin 4 is earth.

Judging by the state of the multi plug I’m guessing someone has been here before but very heavy handed.
Checking the relay it seems that someone has been at that as well, I would have expected the relay to click when I switched the stalk but nothing, however that whole area where the cccu unit and relays sit looks very ratty

The motor isn’t seized so it looks like it may need a replacement.

Tailgate solenoid and fuel flap solenoid have no power to them when they are operated, are these controlled by the CCCU?

Finally I found this in the garage.

I used it last to connect to an 03 sharan/galaxy, if I download VCDS will this work with my A2?


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From the pictures, it looks like there's been some water ingress. Might be worth checking for leaks! ?

 

[Jayw13702]

From the pictures, it looks like there's been some water ingress. Might be worth checking for leaks!

It was used for moving bales of hay and stuff like that for a while, the whole car is an armpit inside and I’m slowly working my way through and cleaning it all up
The underfloor area is being cleaned out tomorrow so I’ll have a chance to clean it all up and clean the contacts


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[Jayw13702]

finally managed to get vcds connected today, managed to get a whole load of codes,

01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) 37-00 - Faulty

01330 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 52-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

01330 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 53-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

01366 - Opened Due to Crash Signal 36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

00532 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 37-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

01559 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 37-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

00912 - Window Regulator Switch; Front Left (E40) 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

00913 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 27-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

01031 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 27-00 - Please Register/Activate

01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386) 49-00 - No Communications

01030 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 27-00 - Please Register/Activate

01560 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 37-00 - Please Register/Activate

01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) 49-10 - No Communications – Intermittent

So I cleared the fault codes down and started again. this is the report

1 Fault Found:

01560 - Passenger Door 37-00 - Faulty - Passenger Door: Won't De-Safe

then I scanned the engine ecu and got this:

01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2) 30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

01176 - Key: Signal too Low

01314 - Engine Control Module: Check DTC Memory

01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)

01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J386)

01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System: Faulty

01288 - Terminal 30; Steering Assist: Signal too Low

00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250) 36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

00566 - Steering Assistance Operation: Implausible Signal


That explains why the steering is occasionally heavy. Also when the car is warm it runs at about 500rpm so maybe the coolant temp sensor is at fault.

01330 code seems to imply that the CCCU is either not communicating or dead, however the central locking still works as does the electric windows, I understand that the CCCU controls these as well, can anyone confirm this?

 

[Andrew]

......
01330 code seems to imply that the CCCU is either not communicating or dead, however the central locking still works as does the electric windows, I understand that the CCCU controls these as well, can anyone confirm this?

Yes, that is my understanding as well. A quick google of 'Ross-tech 01330' points a lot at battery.

Andy

 

[Jayw13702]

Yes, that is my understanding as well. A quick google of 'Ross-tech 01330' points a lot at battery.

Andy

The battery has recently been replace with a brand new one, there was a charging issue that has now been rectified.

I’m going to recheck the car tomorrow, all the codes have been cleared to I’m hoping that I dont get as many tomorrow

The only CCCUs that I can find on eBay are the AF one, does anyone know if that will work with my car?

 

[audifan]

Looking at the pictures of your CCCU, I would remove it from the car and carefully check all the pins for damage and corrosion. It may have even been wet at some stage, so internal corrosion could be possible. Give it a good clean and scrub up then retry. Failing that your best bet would be to liase with Tom @timmus about him waving his magic wand over a second hand unit and all the other things you need to do when swapping a CCCU over.

 

[PlasticMac]

Have you checked the battery state under load? This should be done with ignition on, main or dipped lights on, engine not running. Just because a battery is new, does not mean it is fully charged. It could even be faulty, unlikely, but not impossible.
Mac.

 

[Andrew]

The battery has recently been replace with a brand new one, there was a charging issue that has now been rectified.

I’m going to recheck the car tomorrow, all the codes have been cleared to I’m hoping that I dont get as many tomorrow

The only CCCUs that I can find on eBay are the AF one, does anyone know if that will work with my car?

Excellent sugestions from Audifan, your CCCU does looked to have lived in a grotty environment and most likely the source of the problem

I noticed you have a Q version of the CCCU which is an early edition which has a poor record of reliability whereas AF is a late edition which has a good reputation, the one normally to go for. I am fairly sure the AF will work with your car but it may need matching to your car with VCDS. Then then there is the question of keys. Normally if you buy a CCCU on here it is supplied with the bottom half of the key(s) to avoid key pairing with VCDS ensuring the key(s) are essentially plug and play, this does not seem the case on eBay. The CCCUs on here are also normally cheaper! Put an ad in the Marketplace is the best way to pursue this option but far easier and guaranteed from Timmus.

Andy

 

[Jayw13702]

Have you checked the battery state under load? This should be done with ignition on, main or dipped lights on, engine not running. Just because a battery is new, does not mean it is fully charged. It could even be faulty, unlikely, but not impossible.
Mac.

Yes, 14.2v at the battery whilst the blower motor was running at full speed and the heated rear window was on
Engine off and that dropped to 13.2v with the same load


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