Lower ball joints covers on cast control arm

Rosstbeef

Rosstbeef

Member
Hi,

My bottom ball joint covers are perished, one's fully split but the joint is still intact. The other boot is looking like it's on its way out. I have the cast control arms with non replaceable ball joints. I don't want to fork out for a whole new arm so I'm looking for new boots.

I've seen these on ebay and hope they might fit. Link
has anyone tried something similar? know which boots will fit, and how easy it is to get the spring retainers on?

I'll let you know how it goes once I have new boots.

Cheers,

Ross
 
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They might be the right size but I have seen packs of mixed sizes on Ebay which might be a better choice. Not expensive. Take care separating the ball joint though - the studs are very soft!

RAB
 
I've bought a multi pack from the same seller.
By studs do you mean the joint itself? I've already separated one side, came apart pretty easily.

I'm doing the inner CV boot that looks to have been damaged by the garage that changed the clutch with the previous owner. That garage is shocking, leaving several loose bolts, routing wiring incorrectly and insecurely. I'm blaming them for binning the RH water collector and driveshaft heat shield too! I so want to name n shame!
 
Rosstbeef said:
By studs do you mean the joint itself? I've already separated one side, came apart pretty easily.
Click to expand...

The stud on the ball joint itself. Just to emphasise the difference between the 1.2 and all other A2s, this stud is 10mm diameter on the 1.2. On every other variant it is 12mm.

RAB
 
Useful info, thanks RAB.

After finishing the CV Boot off, I went at the lower ball joint with the split boot. Even though the boot was split more than 180 degrees of the circumference I'm pleased to report the joint is fine. Just waiting for the replacement boots to arrive now.

The grease was a little dirty at the surface but not bad. No grit or water seems to have got to the joint itself at all.

IMG_20180326_150042.jpg

No grit or water seems to have got to the joint itself at all.
IMG_20180326_151111.jpg


I'm aiming to do the track rod ends and one of the tie rods has a split boot too. The boots I bought were are in a pack with a selection of different sizes.

This car hasn't seen much use over it's life and I guess that has't helped the boots remain supple and has led to the deterioration of most of the boots.
 
Got me new boots on this afternoon after postie brought them. The fiddly bit was getting the metal retaining rings over the boot and into the groove at the bottom of the boot. I got the hang of it by the time I'd replaced the third one. I'm sure there is a special way or tool for this but I haven't found it. The way I did it was:
  1. Add grease onto the joint, I didn't go mad as the boot squashes fairly flat.
  2. Place the boot onto the joint and ease the base of the boot into the groove on the joint
  3. Place the lower retaining ring onto the boot and start the split ring off into the groove then use a thin screwdriver between the split ring and the boot to slide around the edge of the joint, easing/levering the ring into the groove as you go. I should have taken a pic of this as its hard to explain. I know some replacement boots come with o-rings that keep the boot in place. I fancied keeping it original and I was sure a metal ring would probably keep the boot more secure and water tight than o-rings.
  4. Then fit the top retaining ring and your done.
I reused the original retaining rings where possible especially the top rings. The boots I bought were a good fit at the base but the hole at the top was a lot smaller than the original boots. The ebay listing specified they will stretch to cover the larger diameter and they did. If I could find a listing with better fitting boots I would have bought them. The boots came in three sizes and it was the small ones I used. All the boots from this seller (small, med and large) had the same size top hole. The top retaining rings they supplied were too small a circumference for the taper on the ball joint.

I replaced boots on the control arm ball joint, the tie rod, and the track rod end on one side. Will look to do the other side when I know the car runs properly. I've only driven it home so far from buying it and then set to on it with oil leaks etc.

These boots aren't like for like but I can't see at the moment why they won't work/last. Only time will tell.

Here are some pics.

Control arm with new boot
IMG_20180328_145454.jpg

Tie rod boot had some water in the boot and grease was a little runnier but joint is still fine, no play.
IMG_20180328_152008.jpg

IMG_20180328_152045.jpg

IMG_20180328_153956.jpg
IMG_20180328_154503.jpg

Track rod end
IMG_20180328_154443.jpg
IMG_20180328_160701.jpg
 
is there a way to replace only the ball joint?? or you have to replace the entitre control arm ??? thank you!!
 
SERGIO VA said:
is there a way to replace only the ball joint?? or you have to replace the entitre control arm ??? thank you!!
Click to expand...
Hi Sergio and welcome to the forum :)

On the cast arms on the earlier cars (until some time in 2003 I think), if the balljoint goes then you have to replace the entire arm. On the later pressed steel arms you can replace just the ball joint, but those arms are prone to corrosion.
 
can you upgrade the control arm from cast to steel ones. is this possible or not worth it??? thank you again for your response!!
 
SERGIO VA said:
can you upgrade the control arm from cast to steel ones. is this possible or not worth it??? thank you again for your response!!
Click to expand...
Most folk upgrade the other way, they go from pressed wishbones to forged wishbones(cast)...these do not rot like the pressed ones, and being solid they don't hold water within the wishbone causing it to rot from the inside out.
 
SERGIO VA said:
can you upgrade the control arm from cast to steel ones. is this possible or not worth it??? thank you again for your response!!
Click to expand...
Clackers said:
Most folk upgrade the other way, they go from pressed wishbones to forged wishbones(cast)...these do not rot like the pressed ones, and being solid they don't hold water within the wishbone causing it to rot from the inside out.
Click to expand...

The two types are interchangeable, but in that case it would be advisable to do both sides of the car at the same time. Meanwhile, there are fewer manufacturers offering the cast arms these days, and they have become more expensive. So you may need to price up both options carefully to decide which way to go.
 
I've just fitted some new boots to the ball joints.
www.ebay.co.uk

2x Ball Joint Covers 12/28/24 Dust Boot Cover Track Rod End Car Van Auto (Pair) | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2x Ball Joint Covers 12/28/24 Dust Boot Cover Track Rod End Car Van Auto (Pair) at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk

These were much better than some I fitted on;ly 2 years ago.
If the link ever dies they were 12mm x 28mm x 24mm
Hope this helps someone
 
Keep an eye on the new covers, i have changed mine a few tines from different sellers and some have been showing cracks after 6 months, its getting to be an annual job .....
 
vkx245l said:
I've just fitted some new boots to the ball joints.
www.ebay.co.uk

2x Ball Joint Covers 12/28/24 Dust Boot Cover Track Rod End Car Van Auto (Pair) | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2x Ball Joint Covers 12/28/24 Dust Boot Cover Track Rod End Car Van Auto (Pair) at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk

These were much better than some I fitted on;ly 2 years ago.
If the link ever dies they were 12mm x 28mm x 24mm
Hope this helps someone
Click to expand...
Thanks - these are for the lower arm ball joints yes?

I've added a couple of pairs to my basket - pending your confirmation - so I can buy and store for future-proofing purposes.
 
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