Lower chain and chain tensioner replacements for the TDI

Just been studying my A2 manual. Primarily to check that I have everything on order, I don't.

This is going to be the biggest job I've ever done. Having seen what's involved I don't know a mechanic I would trust with this.

Definitely a DIY job.
 
Just occurred to me, not only will this be my biggest job but it also my first significant job on a diesel. It's taking some preparing for. Getting a sump off in the past has been lift the car, make it safe, drain oil, remove perhaps 10 screws and break the fiber gasket.

Take a look at this http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2...rication_system/removing_and_installing_sump/

Scroll down the sequence and the reason for the engine having to turn is clear, it is to access the two screws in the sump next to the gear box. On a petrol engine I would remove the plugs and turn it. I assume for a diesel the first job is drive it to temperature then remove glow plugs?

Also many components are marked disregard in the manual, I assume that means bin them and fit new if you want to work exactly to the instructions?
 
Last edited:
Hi Philward.
I think disregard means that the numbers on the picture match more than one procedure but for this one you only need to consider one or two of the numbers and not the others.
Admiring the bravery here.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Good luck with the project your a very brave man.

I replaced the sump on my VFR last year due to a crack caused by over tightening the oil sup screw that was a real head ache but tiddly compared to what your about to do.
 
Pinkythelabrat said:
Hi Philward.
I think disregard means that the numbers on the picture match more than one procedure but for this one you only need to consider one or two of the numbers and not the others.
Admiring the bravery here.
Click to expand...

That's useful to know thank you. I couldn't work out why I would throw screws away and planned to get them off and make my own mind up before purchasing new.

Brave? I think my choice is big up and do it or scrap the car / trade it. Thanks, and Gritty too, for the support :)
 
I ve spent a over £1200 squid on parts and labour so far and only had the car since Jan! Im skinto

Stopped spending for a while now as have decided to just watch the forum to see how many tdi owners get through there MOT from May.
 
Gritty said:
I ve spent a over £1200 squid on parts and labour so far and only had the car since Jan! Im skinto

Stopped spending for a while now as have decided to just watch the forum to see how many tdi owners get through there MOT from May.
Click to expand...

My MOT due early June. Needs new hand brake cable, front brakes, front splash guards and a gearbox oil leak fixing. Worst MOT yet but never failed one, car owned from new
 
Hi yeah the death pipe I think runs round the back of the engine but Im unsure if its on tdi, petrol or both?

Sure some one on here will provide the answer shortly.

I saw an advert recently where it had been changed? one of a long long long list of renewals need on this car!!
 
I thought it was only on the FSi. I don't think it's on TDI because I seem to remember stopping worrying about it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Yup I had that whole worrying about it / tdi relief thing too.

Now need you worry about the chain and alternator belt instead :)

The febi kit listed above ... if i want to replace tensioner., lower chain and sprockets what's not covered in the kit ?
 
Last edited:
Thanks all re FSI only. I didn't think there was anything on a TDi cooling system that resembled a plastic pipe at the back of the engine.

Replaced the whole thing a few years ago. The fuel pump had leaked diesel on all the rubber pipes at the back of the engine and the steel pipe down the LH side of the engine had rusted through (main dealer not securing wiring harness back correctly rubbed through the paint and rusted from outside in).
 
cheechy said:
The febi kit listed above ... if i want to replace tensioner., lower chain and sprockets what's not covered in the kit ?
Click to expand...

This is my first time (and only time all being well) doing this job. As far as I know that kit is the most comprehensive Febi kit all 4 sprockets are there, the chain and guide / tensioner. So far I have identified a handful of bolts an O ring and liquid sealer that are needed in addition.

Also a number of tools but these have been quite reasonably priced. When I have everything together I'll post pictures and indicative costs.
 
Starting to sort the garage. Lived here 20 years and never used it for car repairs. Got 20 years of clutter to tidy up.
I have a question for someone who has done this job before. Is it necessary to remove the O/S wheel at all? If not as I have never dug a pit I have a choice of axle stands or ramps. Ramps will give me more height and safety but I cannot remove the wheels. Thanks
 
philward said:
I assume for a diesel the first job is drive it to temperature then remove glow plugs?

Also many components are marked disregard in the manual, I assume that means bin them and fit new if you want to work exactly to the instructions?
Click to expand...

Just turn the crankshaft with a socket, no need to remove glow plugs or warm up the engine. Are you confusing disregard with discard?

RAB
 
philward said:
Starting to sort the garage. Lived here 20 years and never used it for car repairs. Got 20 years of clutter to tidy up.
I have a question for someone who has done this job before. Is it necessary to remove the O/S wheel at all? If not as I have never dug a pit I have a choice of axle stands or ramps. Ramps will give me more height and safety but I cannot remove the wheels. Thanks
Click to expand...

Axle stands should give sufficient height. You could remove the auxiliary belt and pulley first, to get access to the end of the crankshaft, with the O/S wheel off, then put the wheel back on and use axle stands.

RAB
 
RAB said:
Axle stands should give sufficient height. You could remove the auxiliary belt and pulley first, to get access to the end of the crankshaft, with the O/S wheel off, then put the wheel back on and use axle stands.

RAB
Click to expand...
For the second "axle stands" read "ramps"!

RAB
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top