My bolts are super tight! - Top rear shock absorber mounts

bye_bye_alfa

bye_bye_alfa

Member
Could do with some advice please guys.

Thought I'd start to get some jobs done on the A2. Wanted to change the rear shocker (think it's original).

Can't budge the 16mm bolts on the top shocker mount.

I've tried a couple of 300mm extension bars and ratchet, but its not budging, yes has WD40 on it.

I have just bought a cordless impact wrench but as I'm new to this, thought I'd gauge opinion before I let rip with it.

Feeling like I've fell at the first hurdle!
 
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Be careful they are captive nuts on the rear shocks. If they come adrift you are in for a lot of grief. Ole engineers trick, try to tighten them a tiny fraction to break the seal.
 
Be careful and do not use an impact wrench. The nut on the inside of the car is tack welded into a cavity that is sealed up during body build. If the nut is dislodged that is a whole world of pain. Use a very good penetrating oil - no WD40 is not a penetrating oil and let it soak and repeat a couple of times before you try to remove the bolts.

The 2 really good penetrants that I recommend are PB Blaster and PlusGas.
 
Thanks for the info guys, had a tap with the lump hammer, and a repeated tighten and loosen.

Here's the state of them. Would replacing them be better?

What's the best way to remove the mount from shocker, doesn't look like much to grip.
Ring spanner and mole grips?
 

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They should clean up just fine. You obviously can replace them if you wish.

The mole grips and ring spanner is ok on the old shock just be extremely careful when fitting the new shock.
 
Yep, looks like you have a shed load of aluminium oxide on them. They may scrub up but new is not expensive.
I would be more interested in the female threads, have they survived or stripped out?
 
Thanks again all.

I've cleaned up the bolts, they insert fine, nothing seems to have stripped out (thank god).
I have the other side to do, so we'll see.

Priced up new mounts around £35-40 for a pair, new bolts included, seems wrong bolts on their own would cost be £13.
 
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On Mr Silver they came out like factory fresh, odd how experiences can be so different!

Personally I greased mine upon refitting like I do most fasteners
 
You were lucky, I thought I was going to snap something they were that tight.
Not looking forward to doing the other side.

So you grease your bolts, Dave M is recommending Loctite.
Watched a Swedish chap do his shocks on YouT, and he uses aerosol linseed oil!
 
bye_bye_alfa said:
You were lucky, I thought I was going to snap something they were that tight.
Not looking forward to doing the other side.

So you grease your bolts, Dave M is recommending Loctite.
Watched a Swedish chap do his shocks on YouT, and he uses aerosol linseed oil!
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I used my air gun to get the bolts out and threw caution to the wind! A method which supposed to be best for glow plugs....

I use a mix of grease and engine oil in a frying pan!
 
When the bolts are fitted in the factory neither Loctite nor a grease is used. I can understand people using either themselves when rebuilding but it is important to note that "grease" will affect the torque of the bolts.

Just how many are aware there is no way to replace the captive nuts may make them reconsider using air or impact tools on these bolts.
 
bye_bye_alfa said:
Thanks for the info guys, had a tap with the lump hammer, and a repeated tighten and loosen.

Here's the state of them. Would replacing them be better?

What's the best way to remove the mount from shocker, doesn't look like much to grip.
Ring spanner and mole grips?
Click to expand...
Wow, mine were in pretty good shape by comparison when I did mine last year. I soaked in PB Blaster for a couple of days leading up removal. As it happens I changed both the mount and the bolts (the bolts were provided with the mounts) - opinions will be variable on whether that was strictly necessary

J
 
I add a smear of Vaseline when reassembling unless the manual specifies a dry bolt or oiled bolt. It has served me well over the years, a classic mini that sank into the garden has caused no trouble after 20 years neglect. All greased bolts came out no problem.
Lubrication will result in an increase in torque though. However this will not be significant as the final torque is applied via a 90 degree turn. Specified torque 30Nm plus 90 degrees (always renew if removed).
 
I thought I read years ago that grease/oil on bolts can lead to the thread stripping. Happy to be corrected.

Also, all steel bolts going into aluminium on the A2 are coated, and I guess that the coating gets damaged by removing/reinserting the bolt. I don't know if Loctite is a suitable replacement coating.
 
Alan_uk said:
I thought I read years ago that grease/oil on bolts can lead to the thread stripping. Happy to be corrected.

Also, all steel bolts going into aluminium on the A2 are coated, and I guess that the coating gets damaged by removing/reinserting the bolt. I don't know if Loctite is a suitable replacement coating.
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I’ve thought too that the reason for replacing all bolts on an A2 is to renew the green coating. However the bolts have been superseded and these days my MK2 Golf and A2 are supplied the same bolts.
I don’t see the green plating these days.
I do my best to prevent water ingress to the threads. No moisture no galvanic corrosion is my logic.
Loctite may do the job but it will also make the bolt difficult to remove next time. I favour vaseline and / or silicone sealer.
Yes grease on bolts will increase the stress in the bolt for a given torque. Easy to check it you are close to the limit. However torque + angle much reduces the risk.
 
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