My First A2 - FSI Project Build

A2on18's

A2on18's

Member
I bought my first A2 2 weeks ago, 2003 A2 1.6FSI with 138k, the decision was made purely on the fact it had the Votex kit on it, made my way via train to Maidstone to view/collect and at that point had pretty much commited without seeing

The car needs some work and the more time I spend with it the more things I find, I'm a keen modifier but this will be an OEM+ project rather than anything more..

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The car looks better in the pictures than in real life, wheels have been sprayed over to make them look fresh and every door has at least one dent in along the main line so not really repairable, it also has damage to the C pillar on the nearside. I truly bought this heart over head!

At this point I'm not deterred though...

Current known issues 06/06
- knock from N/S front
- seems low on power above 3k
- temperature rarely gets close to 90 degrees
- rear hatch inner cover comes off when closing boot
- some water in boot well
- wheels need refurb
- Votex kit needs respray and jack covers (@Sarge already contacted :)
- corrision bubble on leading edge of roof
- soft touch buttons worn
- near to no radio signal
- no air con and VERY noisy blower motor


Things to do
- Investigate and resolve knock from N/S front
- Full service including all filters and plugs (looking at the top of the engine don't think the plugs have been changed for a long time!)
- Replace all 4 doors
- Remove Votex kit get resprayed and refitted
- Refurbish headlights, fit new brighter bulbs
- Refurbish fog lights, fit new brighter bulbs
- Full paint decontamination and machine polish
- Treat all glass with hydrophobic product
- Full interior clean
- Hard touch refurb of switches etc
- replace concert radio or fit bluetooth kit
- refurb wiper arm

Planned Modifications
- TT Steering Wheel
- TT Gear Lever
- TT Pedals
- Custom A2 footrest (watch this space for a new post on these!)
- Test fit 18" TT Wheels
- Hub & Caliper Refurb

I'm sure there is plenty more to list but as a starter for 10 that's enough for the time being!
 
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I'd say number one on your list should be a VCDS scan ...
Do all of the dash lights come on (particularly EML) when the key is turned to first position (and if so, go out when engine starts)?
Get the engine sorted before spec improvements.
Mac.
 
Hi,

Welcome, I always take an interest in FSI related threads, being a FSI owner.

You have your work cut but lots of helpful info on the faults you list, all seem common.

Unfortunately the scan report links fail for me, maybe directly upload the VCDS log with the post.

To pick up on Mac's point on dash lights, lamentably many FSIs sold have the EML fraudulently nobbled never to illuminate. It should appear briefly at startup as per post 11 here.

New A2 owner few questions

Bought the little A2 about a week ago now it’s a 2003 1.6fsi with the sky roof not sure what colour it’s just looks like a light metallic green. The car has done 90,000 miles, I’m not sure how many miles people usually get out of a 1.6 as I’ve always had diesel cars so if anyone can shed light...
www.a2oc.net

Lots further to add but I will wait pending scan report.

Andy
 
Second scan looks good, just dodgy flap motor in the HVAC.
Nothing engine wise. Scan again after a spirited drive, tank full of V Power (other 98/99 octane fuels are available), making sure you go above 3500 rpm and down again, below 2500 rpm, a few times, so the inlet manifold flaps get a bit of exercise.
Mac.
@Andrew Extract of scan attached.
 

Attachments

  • A2 - OneDrive (1).pdf
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PlasticMac said:
Second scan looks good, just dodgy flap motor in the HVAC.
Nothing engine wise. Scan again after a spirited drive, tank full of V Power (other 98/99 octane fuels are available), making sure you go above 3500 rpm and down again, below 2500 rpm, a few times, so the inlet manifold flaps get a bit of exercise.
Mac.
@Andrew Extract of scan attached.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mac, nothing much there as you say. Probably the original link fails for me because I am on my old iPad and I can see Microsoft One Drive reference in the the tab header but nothing more.
 
PlasticMac said:
Second scan looks good, just dodgy flap motor in the HVAC.
Nothing engine wise. Scan again after a spirited drive, tank full of V Power (other 98/99 octane fuels are available), making sure you go above 3500 rpm and down again, below 2500 rpm, a few times, so the inlet manifold flaps get a bit of exercise.
Mac.
@Andrew Extract of scan attached.
Click to expand...

Thats a bit of a relief to be honest :)

Had a couple whilst chilling in the tub this afternoon so will give it some beans tomorrow and run again!
 
Andrew said:
Hi,

Welcome, I always take an interest in FSI related threads, being a FSI owner.

You have your work cut but lots of helpful info on the faults you list, all seem common.

Unfortunately the scan report links fail for me, maybe directly upload the VCDS log with the post.

To pick up on Mac's point on dash lights, lamentably many FSIs sold have the EML fraudulently nobbled never to illuminate. It should appear briefly at startup as per post 11 here.

New A2 owner few questions

Bought the little A2 about a week ago now it’s a 2003 1.6fsi with the sky roof not sure what colour it’s just looks like a light metallic green. The car has done 90,000 miles, I’m not sure how many miles people usually get out of a 1.6 as I’ve always had diesel cars so if anyone can shed light...
www.a2oc.net

Lots further to add but I will wait pending scan report.

Andy
Click to expand...

This is a quick video of the ignition on process

 
That's how mine was until Timmus sorted it and added the Proboost, not been a problem since (touch wood ?)
 
Thanks for the video, a picture and even better a video is worth a thousand words and all that..

It appears you are a victim of the FSI EML fraud, the yellow EML engine symbol should have appeared briefly at about 'twenty to the hour' on the MPH dial. Common methods for masking the EML are tape, wadding in the light tunnel, and if you are unlucky brutal ripping out of the diode from the PCB. The question is what is it hiding; my money is is on 17439/P1031. All fixable with effort and expense.

Andy
 
A couple of light of light touch points.

1. As you probably know the FSI temperature gauge should reach 90°C after 10 minutes from cold and stay rock solid (telling its lies!). Replace coolant temperature sensor and/or thermostat on the cards but worth monitoring both temperature sensor outputs to confirm with VCDS as you have it. More to say, it's late...

2. The poor radio reception is most likely a failed diversity unit (lives next to battery) caused by corrosion from the damp which in turn will be leaking vents. Fix vents and replace diversity unit.

Andy
 
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The car's only done 38,000 mls, so, the inlet manifold flaps may not be in bad condition. Get the scan done after a drive and see what it tells us, and go from there.
Although sticky flaps are the obvious suspect, the actuator, vacuum line, potentiometer are all suspects too. Also, if any work's been done on the manifold, incorrect assembly (not locking the actuator before reassembly), or not running the calibration process with VCDS are suspects too.
Mac.
 
Andrew said:
A couples of light of light touch points.

1. As you probably know the FSI temperature gauge should reach 90°C after 10 minutes from cold and stay rock solid (telling its lies!). Replace coolant temperature sensor and/or thermostat on the cards but worth monitoring both temperature sensor outputs to confirm with VCDS as you have it. More to say, it's late...

2. The poor radio reception is most likely a failed diversity unit (lives next to battery) caused by corrosion from the damp which in turn will be leaking vents. Fix vents and replace diversity unit.

Andy
Click to expand...

That's really helpful... I thought looking at the unit in the boot that may be the culprit :) No to find one!

Think
PlasticMac said:
The car's only done 38,000 mls, so, the inlet manifold flaps may not be in bad condition. Get the scan done after a drive and see what it tells us, and go from there.
Although sticky flaps are the obvious suspect, the actuator, vacuum line, potentiometer are all suspects too. Also, if any work's been done on the manifold, incorrect assembly (not locking the actuator before reassembly), or not running the calibration process with VCDS are suspects too.
Mac.
Click to expand...

Thanks, will rescan in the next couple of days after I have done a few more miles, it has 138k on it though :)
 
RS11SMS said:
That's really helpful... I thought looking at the unit in the boot that may be the culprit :) No to find one!

Think


Thanks, will rescan in the next couple of days after I have done a few more miles, it has 138k on it though :)
Click to expand...
Speak to @A2Steve he might have one or speak to @Clackers as they are the resident parts genies.
 
RS11SMS said:
That's really helpful... I thought looking at the unit in the boot that may be the culprit :) No to find one!

Think


Thanks, will rescan in the next couple of days after I have done a few more miles, it has 138k on it though :)
Click to expand...
Ahhh! You missed 100,000 mls of your intro post then. Never mind, plenty of help on here whatever it turns out to be.
Mac.
 
RS11SMS said:
That's really helpful... I thought looking at the unit in the boot that may be the culprit :) No to find one!

Think


Thanks, will rescan in the next couple of days after I have done a few more miles, it has 138k on it though :)
Click to expand...
I would bet money on the familiar manifold flaps issue being the reason why someone has “deleted” the EML in that case. The good news is that sorting it out is a well trodden path. Bad news is that it’s a ton of work if you also consider that the plastic cooling system components will likely be at the end of their lives too.

I’d be tempted to take the engine out to do all the work at once.
 
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