MYP Gearbox 1.4tdi AMF (75) 6 speed MMXXIV

[rotifer II]

Side by side, MAL & PTU​

Spot the difference competition. Just for fun, no prizes.

 

[Howey]

Other than obvious the PTU looks like it's got a new release bearing?

How close are you to getting it fitted? Tomorrow is supposed to be dry!

 

[rotifer II]

Hello,

Yeah, a dry day tomorrow but as the gearbox out the way I'll get a few other new parts fitted.
EDIT
20/03/25
Other competing factors eat into the my free time. Some jobs had to be dropped from the list.
EDIT (2/4/25)
Items in red have been dropped from the list

• Front struts, springs, top mounts
• Control arms
• Lower ball joints
• Inner and outer tie rods
• All 4 CV joints
• Align subframe
• Remove exhaust all the heat shields for cleaning
• Remove & clean behind sills and fit copper brake lines
• Fit turbo CHRA
•  Drop fuel tank replace all rubber fuel lines
• Create a thread on fuel system
• Cleaning as I go

I would think three weeks before the gearbox is fitted.
That's the luxuary of having 2 A2s, no time pressure.

The estimated three weeks turned into 6 months.

 

[Howey]

Wow that's a very extensive list!

 

[CrispyEdd]

What ive never understood is that the plasctic shield over drive shaft for the turbo seems overkill in terms of bolts adn torque. A mystery to me. Two huge 16mm bolts and 33nm torque! Why?? and they alsways wobble and cant be tightened fully. Odd.

Great write up by the way, going to be very useful for all the tinkerers out there in future, including myself in coming weeks!

 

[Little Dog]

What ive never understood is that the plasctic shield over drive shaft for the turbo seems overkill in terms of bolts adn torque. A mystery to me. Two huge 16mm bolts and 33nm torque! Why?? and they alsways wobble and cant be tightened fully. Odd.

Great write up by the way, going to be very useful for all the tinkerers out there in future, including myself in coming weeks!

Probably a carry over from an old design when the shields were steel. Once the thread is big the torque needs to be big to create some stretch otherwise they will vibrate out.

 

[rotifer II]

I have fitted shorter bolts and thread lock them plus a repair to the plastic shield means they now seat against aluminium which has stopped them backing out.
You could use a flanged bolt with a Nord-Lock washer?

 

[rotifer II]

Gearbox Mount Refurbishment​

The A2 gearbox mount comprises of the aluminium outer case which holds the rubber bush. The bush has a plastic insert underneath the aluminium bar.

The new gearbox mount does not have a fixing point for the gearbox brace.

Fitting the new bush to the old casing allows the brace to be refitted.

@carlston provides a link to the gearbox mount part number on the first page of this thread.

Engine Mounts​

 

[rotifer II]

Test Fit​

The MYP lever arm is too long and cannot move past the gearbox mount. The MAL lever looks too short to be of use.
But the bracing bar and starter motor fit perfectly.

The MYP brace is not required.

 

[Howey]

Does the MYP not require any spacers to make the mount fit like the 02R and JDD ones do?

 

[rotifer II]

Does the MYP not require any spacers to make the mount fit like the 02R and JDD ones do?

 

[rotifer II]

Gearbox Selector Lever with Damper Weight​

EDIT 20/03/25
The Bowden cable end seen below is not used in the final installation, it was too slack.

The original TDI gearbox selector from the EQW box was recycled years ago. The best idea I have is to shorten the arm on the MYP lever.
A low budget solution that is ideally

• easy to copy
• requires basic tools
• is metric

The tools for the job are a hacksaw, file, electric drill, drill bits and an M8 tap to cut the threads.

Sketch with Measurements

There are just a few steps to complete this job, firstly cut the end off the lever close to the pin.
Fit the lever to the shift tower and place the Bowden end on top the lever. Check the Bowden has the clearance required as it passes the gear mount when the shifting the lever back and forth. Put a scribe mark on the metal lever to indicate where to drill.
Make a pilot hole followed by a 6.8mm hole for the tap to run through then clean up the metal work using a file.

Note
If you own an angle grinder or rotary tool use these for cutting and shaping the metal.

Parts List

• M8 low profile stainless steel pan head hex bolt 45mm with full thread
• M8 washers x 4 (nylon if available)
• Stand off washer IDx8mm, ODx13mm, height 15mm aluminium or stainless
• M8 Nylock nut

The sleeves were cut off number 1 & 3 and the stand off washer , number 2, was cut to a height of 15 mm.

Won't know if its been a successful build until it has been road tested.

 

[rotifer II]

Relay Lever​

Picture selecting first gear and the movement of the gear stick left, and then forwards. That motion is transferred down the line to the selector fork inside the gearbox. That fork moves the synchromesh into gear position 1. The process started by hand follows a journey through a number of mechanical links before it reaches the gearbox fork. It is these mechanical links that require periodic maintenance.


Invest you time in cleaning and replace the service parts.

Three pin design and contoured backplate

The relay lever repair kit shown above is still to be tested with the MYP gearbox.

The location of the pins on each relay lever is different. Its not easy to see in the picture. Drawing the triangles on paper would reveal the difference. Thought you may fancy some trigonometry?

This slide shoe removes the slack between the relay lever and selector lever.
The nylon slide shoe may require the hight reducing marginally to make it fit.

1J0 711067L pivot bearing bushing shown above, is used only with the metal relay lever.

In summary, the parts shown above are most likely to be the reason a gearbox doesn't go into gear after adjusting the linkages.
Gearboxes are robust and in comparison these plastic parts ware and should be replaced periodically.


EDIT 22/10/24
If the link below breaks fails copy and paste the words description into your search bar.
Cost £15 GBP

Audi TT Pivot Bearing Bushing Shift Relay Lever Slide Shoe Lock Washer​

Credit: eBay seller AutoGearfix

 

[rotifer II]

Scuttle Drain​

A drain was installed to transport the water falling from the open part cut out section of the scuttle to the wheel arch. This drain should protect the components directly below from water damage.

To read more on the design process follow this link

 

[rotifer II]

Turbocharger​

With the gearbox gone, the light levels and access to the engine's rear have increased. The exhaust downpipe can be readily disconnected from the turbocharger.
The A2 workshop manual includes advice on which parts to separate before the turbo can be removed from the vehicle. I disconnect the turbo and exhaust manifold as a single unit; further disassembly is possible once removed from the engine bay.

I purchased a CHRA and installed it between the two sections of the turbo housing. Before reassembly, I recommend using fine wet and dry sandpaper to make the circular depression glassy smooth.

Nice.


A word of caution: only sand the circular depression, nowhere else; its important not to remove alloy from anywhere else.

Turbocharger 1.4 AMF repair click link

 

[rotifer II]

Drive Shafts & Constant Velocity Joints​

If your drive shafts are worn, they can be rebuilt while the gearbox is being swapped, and it is unusual to experience difficulties removing the constant velocity joints, but my luck was in; both outer joints were stuck. There are some of my photos in @CrispyEdd's thread below.

Removing out CV joint from driveshaft

Hello, I'll be back soon to finish the project. (29/11/24)

EDIT
Project completion date 20/03/25.

 

[rotifer II]

Hi all,
Now that the UK's weather is finally getting better, it's time to resume the A2 jobs that were put on hold last year.

Today I...

• Fitted the refurbished turbo
• Removed the clutch and flywheel for inspection

Couldn't get a torque wrench on the turbo nuts. Snugged them up remembering that the stud is threaded into the alloy head.

Clutch plate bolts torque
M6=13 Nm
M7=20 Nm


Flywheel bolt torque
60Nm + 90°



The clutch kit was fitted in 2020 and has plenty life left in it.
The turbo was fitted then removed because I put the the metal gasket on upside down. Gave me a bit of practice on removal and refitting. It's not the first time I've made that mistake with the gasket.

The gearbox is the next job on the list.

 

[rotifer II]

Fitting the Gearbox​

Doing this job by yourself is easier if you are set up well.
If mount has been fitted remove and then attach a strap to act as a handle. A jack or blocks of wood maybe useful to raise the gearbox up if you run out of steam trying to lift the thing.
It is also worth removing the RH drive cup to make input shaft alignment easier for you.

Torque setting

 

[rotifer II]

Flywheel on Show​

I thought I had read somewhere amongst the information on 6 speed conversions that the spacer plate is not required.

Here is what I found when I didn't fit it.

 

[rotifer II]

Home made​

Gear Cable Heat Sheilds Sleeves​

Both the alloy sleeves that cover each gear cable were showing signs of damage.
So before the one closest the exhaust fell apart I made a couple of sleeves from embossed alloy and self adhesive draught excluder.

This mod will work on any vehicle with or without the Audi heat sleeves being installed previously.