Nearside front spring broken.

Westpark

Westpark

Member
Hi - my first posting :) so I hope I get it right !! Investigating a loud 'tinging' sound which I thought was an ARB bearing loose, I found the nearside front coil broken almost one coil from the bottom. Strangely, doesn't seem to have any effect on ride height or handling, but obviously has to be replaced.
My questions: can this be done by any competent mechanic with the right facilities? do both springs have to replaced? (and top bearings), and are the parts expensive?
I've had the car since May last year and can't recall anything that would have caused this.
The A2 is all that I would want in a car, and coming from the aircraft industry, I feel an affinity with it!! (despite the fact that I've also discovered the dreaded door hinge mount fatigue cracking on my driver's door!!. A visit to my local dealer is due I'm afraid :eek: ).
Hoping that someone can help!.
 
Well it does seem to be quite common for a front spring to be broken, i would say that any competant tech should have no problem fitting them (drivers side a little bit harder than the others ), yes i would fit both and bearings . Just a thought have you thought about fitting Koni FSD's at the same time as they do improve the ride (just depends on budget), i've looked at doing them but just not in the budget just yet.
Door hinges this may take you some time to get fixed depends on your dealer mine has been on going since June 08 so some time now (if you have any problems with them contact skipton01 on here (mike) will sort them out)
hope enjoy many more miles in your A2

Cheers Phil

PS welcome to the OC
 
broken front spring.

HI, as stated in previous answer, you should replace both front springs, plus top bearings too same,the bearings cost around a tenner each, not sure what the springs cost??
Yours/this is a common problem to all A2s, so don't worry to much,
Cheers,Alan.
 
Hi Westpark, welcome to the A2oc
If you don't plan to change to Koni FSD dampers at present then I see no problem in just replacing one spring. Its highly unlikely but if after the new spring has settled over a couple of days and the ride height is uneven then change the other spring. The only added expense would be a return visit to the garage.
There are several spring options so check the colour code paint stripes on the existing spring to ensure you get a matching replacement.
Schnelletrecker, our suspension wizzard from the German forum has suggested some high quality aftermarket standard ride height springs so you could use those as an alternative to the genuine Audi ones. In this case replacing both front springs would be recommended -



So the front stock springs of all A2 models are of bad steel quality. Or they have been hardened incorrectly...

If you don't intend to change to quality lowering springs such like ABT or WEITEC, there's in fact one high quality alternative to the stock height A2 springs:

Springs made by SPIDAN.
The Spidan springs come with
identical spring rate,
identical height,
linear characteristic like the original A2 springs
but they aren't prone to break at all!

Please have a look here:

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread...idan#post63326


In your case (1.4 TDI) #49515 are the correct SPIDAN front springs.



Cheers Spike
 
Yep, these SPIDAN springs as a high quality option in contrast to the stock Audi springs are available for the 1.4 petrol, all 1.4 TDIs and the FSI.

They should be available through most independent spare parts suppliers...

Here's the link:

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?p=71452#post71452

The British branch office of GKN Spidan:

GKN Driveline Ltd. Unit 5​
Kingsbury Business Park​
Sutton Coldfield​
GB - West Midlands B 76 9DL​
Tel.: +44 121 / 31 31 661​
Fax: +44 121 / 31 32 073​

More European locations:

http://www.gknservice.com/global/passenger_cars/contact.html
 
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Broken spring

Many thanks to all who replied to my query. I will try to source parts on Monday and book my car in with my local mechanic. I've been looking through posts for some time now, and am extremely impressed by the quick and friendly response from members. I'm very glad that I joined the A2OC.
Again, many thanks, :)
Brian.
 
I need a replacement front drivers side coil spring fitting. I think after reading this thread I'm going to get both springs replaced. What other parts would it be wise for fit at the same time whilst the springs are being fitted?

What price are the Spidan springs as they seem a better option than fitting the Audi springs again (my car is a 2003/03 A2 1.6 Sport FSI)? As they are aftermarket (non-standard) suspension parts I'm guessing you need to notify your insurance?

cheers in advance :)
 
SUSSEX said:
I need a replacement front drivers side coil spring fitting. I think after reading this thread I'm going to get both springs replaced. What other parts would it be wise for fit at the same time whilst the springs are being fitted?

What price are the Spidan springs as they seem a better option than fitting the Audi springs again (my car is a 2003/03 A2 1.6 Sport FSI)? As they are aftermarket (non-standard) suspension parts I'm guessing you need to notify your insurance?

cheers in advance :)
Click to expand...

No you don't have to notify your insurance because the SPIDAN springs are identical (fitting dimension, characteristic, height) to the stock Audi springs.

Both Spidan front springs will cost about EUR 90,-

SPIDAN spring part numbers:

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?p=63326&highlight=spidan#post63326


Here's more info including the list of suspension related spare parts highly recommended for exchange:

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?p=71404#post71404

@ SUSSEX:
In your case you may as well consider upgrading to Koni FSD for comfort reasons...
 
SUSSEX said:
I need a replacement front drivers side coil spring fitting. I think after reading this thread I'm going to get both springs replaced. What other parts would it be wise for fit at the same time whilst the springs are being fitted?

What price are the Spidan springs as they seem a better option than fitting the Audi springs again (my car is a 2003/03 A2 1.6 Sport FSI)? As they are aftermarket (non-standard) suspension parts I'm guessing you need to notify your insurance?

cheers in advance :)
Click to expand...

At the same time you should fit a set of strut top bearings

Cheers Phil
 
SUSSEX said:
Is the Spidan part number for the 1.6 FSI springs the same for a Sport?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can fit the SPIDAN springs to any A2 except for the 1.2 TDI, we just have to order the correct version front springs (related to the different front axle loads dictated by the different engine weights).

Please see links of post #9 of this thread.
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showpost.php?p=71564&postcount=9

However ;) for any sport, I personally would install the SPIDAN front springs # 49527 if combined with Koni FSD or Bilstein B6 - for nice apperance (identical front and rear car height).

Normally these #49527 springs are specified for the 1.4 petrol front axle load, but in combination with the heavier 1.4 TDIs and the 1.6 FSI a 10 to 20 mm lowering at the front can be realised. The Koni FSD or Bilstein B6 shocks featuring strong front compression characteristics will prevent the #49527 springs from bottoming out...




the grim reeper said:
At the same time you should fit a set of strut top bearings
Click to expand...

A complete list of highly recommended suspension parts can also be found through post #9

:)
 
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Hi All.

I am awaiting delivery of my FSDs and Weitecs at the moment but have all of the ancilliary parts that were recommended.

Now I know I need to reduce the length of the bump stops front and rear if I am using the Weitec 30/30 spings. Here is my question... The FSDs supposedly raise the car by 10mm on stock springs and combined with the Weitec 30/30 give an overall lowering of ~20mm. So do I cut 20mm off the bump stops or 30mm? I would have gone with 20 personally unless 30 would be better.

Also with the rear bump stops that hold the little plastic tubes that cover the shock shafts, someone mentioned cutting the end off, removing the amount you need and then gluing the end back on with superglue. Surely this won't last and will compromise the strength or function of the stop? Wouldn't it be better to trim the 20 (or 30) mm from the top end, leaving the bottom untouched and whole?

Also my front brakes are grinding a little now, so I might do them at the same time as the suspension. What are the best discs and pads to get? Still the Brembos?

Any thoughts?

Cheers.

Lee
 
Lee S said:
Here is my question... The FSDs supposedly raise the car by 10mm on stock springs and combined with the Weitec 30/30 give an overall lowering of ~20mm. So do I cut 20mm off the bump stops or 30mm? I would have gone with 20 personally unless 30 would be better.
Click to expand...

Hi Lee,

you should cut the yellow bump stops at 30 mm each in combination with WEITEC 30/30 and the Koni FSD shocks.

The reasons are:
  • The special FSD “frequency selective damping“ technology always requires sufficient free travel to work properly.
  • There can be a permanent 10 mm lift due to the shocks, but there are also several Koni FSD equipped A2s known without any lifting.

Lee S said:
Also with the rear bump stops that hold the little plastic tubes that cover the shock shafts, someone mentioned cutting the end off, removing the amount you need and then gluing the end back on with superglue. Surely this won't last and will compromise the strength or function of the stop?
Click to expand...

As for supergluing the rear PUR bump stops, the glued joint will be “indestructible”. Just be careful that the bonding surfaces are free from grease or oil!

Many car tuner shops around the world do successfully apply this low viscosity superglue-procedure in combination with that kind of bump stop material (PUR) turning out to be a bombproof solution. :)

The glued area will easily cope with all tensional forces (there aren't high tensional forces at all! ;) ). The compressive strength within the glued joint is irrelevant in this case because the superglued joint will handle much higher loads than the PUR material itself.

Lee S said:
Wouldn't it be better to trim the 20 (or 30) mm from the top end, leaving the bottom untouched and whole?
Click to expand...

We sadly cannot just cut the top or the bottom of the rear bump stops because then
  1. this PUR element will fall down onto the shock (no more upper clamp)
  2. the rear dust protection tube will come off due to the missing bottom mount

So please just follow this picture guidance leading to the most professional final result.
 
Excellent. Many thanks Schnelletrecker. Superb photos showing the procedure. I must have missed those first time round. :eek: Cheers,

Lee
 
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