New gearbox selector tower... finally!

allypug

A2OC Donor
So then, at last I got my finger out and made a start removing the old tower, thought I would check before putting the new one in, do I need to use the cup and spring from the bottom of the old one? I'm guessing not but you never know...
IMG_20210717_115842.jpg
 
on further inspection I may have forced the arm back onto the splined shaft in the wrong position, in the photo it's in neutral.. pretty sure the white plastic slider was in the middle of the bit it slides on.. and the amount of thread showing on the RH cable end is much more now than with the old tower
IMG_20210717_163303.jpg
 
Have you reset the selector cables? That is assuming the rest of the mechanism is as it should be.

 
Have you reset the selector cables? That is assuming the rest of the mechanism is as it should be.

yes, many times! I can get 1-5 gears, no reverse as one of the cables runs out of movement as the arm is misaligned.. didn't think this was possible due to the one fat spline on the shaft has to line up.. seems its easy not to which is what I reckon has happened, so arm off and back to correct position tomorrow
 
This is a photo of the car in neutral…

1626544257879.jpeg


I notice that the replacement part that you’ve got doesn’t look at all like the original. When I last replaced a shift tower, almost exactly a year ago, the new part looked identical to the old one; the design hadn’t changed.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Thanks for that Tom, I have just refitted the arm in the correct position, now looks like the above pic, the arm was a spline or 2 out, surprised it fitted so well in the wrong position especially with the fatter 'location' spline, and now I managed to brake a cable end.. arse! I heard on this forum that the new part is an 'improved design', it is different, but all fits now, just have to wait a bit before I can test it.
 
I thought the revised design tower also required a revised plate / locator for the underside of the transmission case?
 
70 mile test drive to work today as the 'test drive' much improved shifting although hasn't quite got rid of the occasional graunchy 3rd and 4th selections.. maybe fine tuning the cable adjustment required??? or something else entirely.. worn bits in the gearbox / clutch.. hmm ?
 
70 mile test drive to work today as the 'test drive' much improved shifting although hasn't quite got rid of the occasional graunchy 3rd and 4th selections.. maybe fine tuning the cable adjustment required??? or something else entirely.. worn bits in the gearbox / clutch.. hmm

Is the crunching not just a worn synchromesh on third and forth so you are getting some clipping of the dog teeth on the gears which aren’t quite speed-equivalent on the change?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Is the crunching not just a worn synchromesh on third and forth so you are getting some clipping of the dog teeth on the gears which aren’t quite speed-equivalent on the change?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did try double de-clutching which didn't have any problems, so it could well be!
 
Is the crunching not just a worn synchromesh on third and forth so you are getting some clipping of the dog teeth on the gears which aren’t quite speed-equivalent on the change?
Agreed.

I did try double de-clutching which didn't have any problems, so it could well be!
I habitually double de-clutch with every gear change, partly to avoid crunch situations, and partly to significantly reduce the rate of wear of the synchro rings.

Cheers,

Tom
 
70 mile test drive to work today as the 'test drive' much improved shifting although hasn't quite got rid of the occasional graunchy 3rd and 4th selections.. maybe fine tuning the cable adjustment required??? or something else entirely.. worn bits in the gearbox / clutch.. hmm ?
Have you changed the oil? More often than not the oil is contaminated with water.
 
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