New member..

Hi Steve,

Pleased to see you have secured an A2. Jeremy has done a very good job replying to your post but I will expand a little on switchgear with the aim of making a reference for other new members in the future.

Yes, worn eyesore soft touch buttons do ruin the look and when tidied up it makes a big upgrade to cabin appearance.

Your choices for switchgear refurbishment as I see it are:

1. Purchase hard touch radio and climate units and rotary light switch sourced from an early A2 which were hard touch (2000 & 2001?). Considered the best solution, but not easy to come by and a tad costly but each slot in 10 minutes and perfect match and hardwearing

2. Purchase good condition A2(2002 on) soft touch units. A good solution but as 1. regarding drawbacks and will go the way of all soft touch buttons eventually.

3. (a) Replace just the buttons on your existing radio and climate units with good condition hard or soft touch buttons (your choice). Reasonably cheap and and a couple hours of straightforward work. Looking at £30 per unit. There tends to be two approaches to this, EITHER ping the old buttons out with Stanley knife blades/pull out using self tappers OR dismantle the units and remove buttons. Read this as a starter.....

https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...n-buttons-without-dismantling-the-dash.24496/

To give a flavour of the dismantling route this is my detailed (overly!) guide for a Concert unit, the climate unit is very similiar.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/how-to-replace-worn-buttons-on-a-concert-ii.35250/

Some more related points.

I am not sure the pinging method will work with the station buttons on radios (happy to be corrected).
Concert units only come in soft touch (happy to be corrected).
For donor units eBay is the usual port of call e.g. search 'A4 B5 climate control unit' will produce hard and soft touch donor units for buttons, but other Audi models are suitable.
The Marketplace on here is also a good source for parts and usually cheaper.
Blacker donor buttons IMHO are acceptable and act as a pleasing contrast to the button housing and you will never notice the difference at night:rolleyes:.

(b) For the lighting rotary switch as mention above the auto head light switch is a good option. Read this ....

https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...-leaving-home.26076/&highlight=auto+headlight

4. Lastly, there is also the sticker option for refurbing buttons. Cheapest option by far and with care can look quite good but I have seen many pictures of stickered climates were the stickers have wrinkled in time or start to come unstuck at the edges and look a mess. Anyway an option....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-stickers-to-repair-the-buttons-on-the-AC-unit-for-Audi-A2-A3-8L/132713738687?fits=Car+Make:Audi&hash=item1ee65af1bf:g:9hEAAOSwUC1bYWXv:rk:9:pf:0

Hope this helps, sorry it turned out long winded in the end.
Andy
 
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One rather concerning feature - or lack of, is theres no eml... Several codes in the ecu but no light on the dash...
doesnt illuminate on ignition on or when Autocom is reading or clearing faults.....
I understand some faults have to occur a certain predefined number of times before the eml light appears and further for some faults the eml extinguishes if the fault has not reoccurred in some defined time period. (Sorry forgot you are a mechanic and will know a thousand times more than me.) However cynical me wonders if the eml has been masked by some previous fraudulent seller. At least on a FSI like mine, I imagine your TDI is similiar, this can easily be checked .

Andy
 
Why not contact A2Steve for a whole new climate panel? I got a near new condition one from him for cheap. He may also have the stereo for cheap.
 
Thanks Kleynie. I will do that. Not super high on my list of essentials as I went out to the car today to find a rear tyre flat.... turns out the rear wheels are shall we say a little out of shape.... either replace the damaged ones or go down to 16's. It ideally needs new boots but wasnt anticipating wheels as well!!!

I did however find out something while playing with my Autocom, there is a function that checks the dashboard lights and gauges and the engine light is there just never illuminates in normal operation.
I also managed to get the car to overboost at a certain point, 3100 rpm in 3rd climbing an incline, if you drive below that it behaves perfectly. I did find a trace of oily residue next to the jubilee clip on the boost pipe at the rear of the engine. I will check the clip and pressure test the system.
 
Thanks Kleynie. I will do that. Not super high on my list of essentials as I went out to the car today to find a rear tyre flat.... turns out the rear wheels are shall we say a little out of shape.... either replace the damaged ones or go down to 16's. It ideally needs new boots but wasnt anticipating wheels as well!!!

I did however find out something while playing with my Autocom, there is a function that checks the dashboard lights and gauges and the engine light is there just never illuminates in normal operation.
I also managed to get the car to overboost at a certain point, 3100 rpm in 3rd climbing an incline, if you drive below that it behaves perfectly. I did find a trace of oily residue next to the jubilee clip on the boost pipe at the rear of the engine. I will check the clip and pressure test the system.
 
Welcome to the forum from a relative newbie.
One point not answered I think is an override for the fuel flap switch.
Open the boot, remove the offside vent at the lower right corner, also for light access. You will see the flap servo and linkage. Push down to release the flap!
This forum is a mine of info but best to search from google ets. Start with A2oc and then what you're looking for.
 
I think Jeremy has covered everything. I used the stickers on the concert ii radio/ cd and on the climate buttons and were a very good match colour wise to the worn soft touch ones, but my volume control became iffy so bought a faulty A3 version and robbed the display board and the better buttons from it and fitted into my unit, ideal time to fit a blue tooth, aux usb adapter when stereo is already out. The sound from the genuine Audi stereos is far better than most aftermarkets so keep original only exception is a Bose retrofit but not cheap. Later I swapped out the buttons on climate for an early A4 unit circa 2000 and being hard touch yes they are black instead of grey. Originally was not keen on the colour difference but now think the slight contrast actually improves the look. As for the lights switch easy enough to replace but good second hand quite rare. Why not fit an auto head light switch to bring the car up to date? For used parts check the Market place, small one off fee to use, or try contacting some of our EXCELLENT parts suppliers from vehicles they break.
Down side think your missus has just found her new xmas present:eek:
 
ok, so finally joined the club, picked up a 02 1.4tdi sport 75 yesterday off a young lad,Cameron , pretty sure is on here as he still has an A2.
Not perfect, think I'd have to pay twice that if it was.
Small list of issues but nothing too awful.
Worst in my eyes is the wear on switchgear. The light switch is well worn and the climate buttons blistered.
I see various hard/soft touch references - are there any units that swap straight in or is it live with it, decal kit or rob from a used unit? Would an A3 climate control go in an for example?
The radio volume is tempermental, but also has wear so will either replace or upgrade - options on a postcard please! What are the options for replacement radios? Bluetooth connectivity? Previously Ive had cables into cd changed input under the aux function, my E91 has a cheap and cheerful bluetooth adaptor that does the trick. Maybe just replace like for like, I think its a concert in there now.
Ordered a new fuel flap release button as its broken - still good you can get the fuel flap open easily otherwise.
Will refurb the wheels when I can be asked, probably stick a set of rainsport3 on it, unless anyone has other recommendations.
One thing that did happen was it dropped boost once, I restarted and it cleared. Didnt do it again for the remainder of the journey. A quick read suggests overboost either a leaking pipe or intercooler cracked. I will investigate after xmas as its going ok at the moment.

Ride wise it wasnt as harsh as I was expecting. Sure its stiff, but Id say my BM with RFT's was far worse for crashing and banging and even tramlining.
Wife (who said she liked the look of the car) even asked for a drive, which is unheard of. I can see she will be nicking it if Im not careful...
Does it have double DIN?
 
Does it have double DIN?

No, single din.
Ive bitten the bullet and bought another HU, off eBay. It says its A2, looks A2 so fingers crossed if the front is correct it maybe a swap over of the parts without too much hassle. Think its probably in need of a new intercooler, though if I stay under 3000 its fine.. :)
That chap on the A2 FB page did a nice job of the climate switches. Ive got a vinyl cutter in my shed, but think it may be too small for it to cut out.
 
The other Audi head units of similar type i.e. concert ii all have the same buttons where they differ is the fascia panel is a different size and shape, the fronts all unscrew aft of that they are all the same. Usually A3 stereos are the cheapest, must be a greater supply. So if another A2 unit is fitted you will need the code for that unit. If you swap the panel, or buttons to your existing unit NORMALLY you do not need the code. Stickers are short term solution and it doesn't take long for an edge to start to lift all downhill from there...
 
The other Audi head units of similar type i.e. concert ii all have the same buttons where they differ is the fascia panel is a different size and shape, the fronts all unscrew aft of that they are all the same. Usually A3 stereos are the cheapest, must be a greater supply. So if another A2 unit is fitted you will need the code for that unit. If you swap the panel, or buttons to your existing unit NORMALLY you do not need the code. Stickers are short term solution and it doesn't take long for an edge to start to lift all downhill from there...

Would have possibly gone sticker, but due to the dodgy volume control went for a unit. Only has what looks like 1 button with a little wear. £25 a bit steep but I like things to be right!
Keep finding myself leaving the 325 at home and running round in the A2. Think I may have to look at selling the MX5 at this rate... It's a novelty having a fuel gauge that doesn't drop 1/4 every hour :)
 
Said it was from an A2...
 

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Nice looking stereo. You think it already from an A2? I can not tell from the front, but from what I can see it does look ex A2. If so and came with its code then put it straight in. If no code swap bits over. All buttons EXCEPT the six radio memory buttons pop out forward. The six radio come out to the rear. Use something blunt to gently push the buttons out and when you remove the locking plate on the rear the radio buttons then come out to the rear. MX5 passes everything except a petrol station. 325 keep for long trips and back up when she pinches the A2 off you. For a permanent fix forget stickers and replace the buttons. The hard buttons out of B5 A4 climate panel are identical to the ones already in the A2 except they are hard touch and are black not grey but are almost bullet proof by comparison. You will need the code for the original if you swap over to the other and recode the car / stereo and try to swap back. Tip put some sort of mark of the metal case so you know which unit is which.
 
Said it was from an A2...
If either of the other two pictures in the ad, I cannot access, showed the sticker and it shows part number 8Z.... then it is A2.

For a unit in that condition £25 is not a bit steep, it's a bargain! There is something called the 'A2 Tax' which means parts cost far more than you imagined:(.

The radio station button that is a bit worn you can swap with any better one in your existing unit. Failing that somebody might have one just ask in 'Marketplace>Wanted'. In fact I might have one if I could ever find where I put them.

Andy
 
To remove the fascia, from the rear you will see 4 small screws that hold the fascia on, remove them and then run a thin piece of plastic around the join between the plastic and metal housing to release the small plastic clips three or four top and bottom. Fascia comes off and unplugs itself from the radio. again from the back of the fascia you will see more screws that hold the board into it, remove and push board from front using the 2 large buttons. You can now pop out any of the large buttons you want forwards, and at the bottom you will see the clip that locks all the station buttons in , remove and then maneuver out any of the 6 station buttons, reassembly is done in reverse.
 
To remove the fascia, from the rear you will see 4 small screws that hold the fascia on, remove them and then run a thin piece of plastic around the join between the plastic and metal housing to release the small plastic clips three or four top and bottom. Fascia comes off and unplugs itself from the radio. again from the back of the fascia you will see more screws that hold the board into it, remove and push board from front using the 2 large buttons. You can now pop out any of the large buttons you want forwards, and at the bottom you will see the clip that locks all the station buttons in , remove and then maneuver out any of the 6 station buttons, reassembly is done in reverse.
I have already given a link to my guide in post #21. It is very detailed. - Andy
 
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