Newbie A2 owner with a couple questions...

RiotousAssembly

RiotousAssembly

New Member
Hello all!
I've only had my 2002 1.4tdi A2 for 3 weeks and already I've gained a lot of useful info from this community so thanks to all.
I have a few things I wanted to ask and any help would be appreciated.

1. Is there anywhere I can buy interior bits? I need rear headrests, a boot false floor and parcel shelf.
2. One of my rear seats will not lock down properly. One of the locking pins with the sprung balls on seems to be rusted up and seized. Tried wd40 and the knee on the seat/pulling the handle trick but no luck.
3. At 116,000 miles I bought mine cheap with no service history. Already had the cam belt, water pump, alternator belt and oil change done just to be safe. Are there any other common issues at this kind of mileage I should be cognisant of?
4. I changed the battery in the key fob which the owner said had been dead for a couple of years. Tried to re sync it with the car but having no luck. Timsons says the fob is signalling correctly. Do I need to get it recoded to the car?

Thanks in advance for any time and advice, I'm seriously loving my A2 and I want to treat it right.

Riot.
 
RiotousAssembly said:
Hello all!
I've only had my 2002 1.4tdi A2 for 3 weeks and already I've gained a lot of useful info from this community so thanks to all.
I have a few things I wanted to ask and any help would be appreciated.

1. Is there anywhere I can buy interior bits? I need rear headrests, a boot false floor and parcel shelf.
2. One of my rear seats will not lock down properly. One of the locking pins with the sprung balls on seems to be rusted up and seized. Tried wd40 and the knee on the seat/pulling the handle trick but no luck.
3. At 116,000 miles I bought mine cheap with no service history. Already had the cam belt, water pump, alternator belt and oil change done just to be safe. Are there any other common issues at this kind of mileage I should be cognisant of?
4. I changed the battery in the key fob which the owner said had been dead for a couple of years. Tried to re sync it with the car but having no luck. Timsons says the fob is signalling correctly. Do I need to get it recoded to the car?

Thanks in advance for any time and advice, I'm seriously loving my A2 and I want to treat it right.

Riot.
Click to expand...
If you upgrade to the marketplace (costs £2) you can place a wanted advert.

Good luck with your purchase, glad you’re enjoying it 👍
 
Good morning and welcome aboard :)

For interior bits, you'll most probably find what you're looking for in the Market here, for which you will need to upgrade your account. Details on how to upgrade are in the Welcome email you will have received (and there's a link here). If someone doesn't already have the items listed, you can put up a Wanted advert. That would include your rear seat - but you're lucky that it's rusted up while out of place, it'd be a lot more work if it couldn't be unlocked.

On a 2002 car you should have the cast front suspension arms so rusting through won't be an issue, but check the rubbers on the balljoints for any signs of perishing. On the cast arms the balljoints are not replaceable, so when the rubber goes, it will take not just the balljoint but the entire arm with it, which isn't a nice easy DIY job to replace.

Also if you have no service history, have a good listen to the engine for anything sounding like a rattly chain. Obviously it won't be the timing, but there is a chain with tensioners which drives the oil pump and balancer shaft. Wear due to a historical lack of oil changes / wrong spec oil would be starting to become apparent at around this mileage. The chain is behind the timing belt so if you hear anything you'd need to use your judgement whether to do it now or wait until the next timing belt change (5 years / 60k miles).
 
Proghound said:
Good morning and welcome aboard :)

For interior bits, you'll most probably find what you're looking for in the Market here, for which you will need to upgrade your account. Details on how to upgrade are in the Welcome email you will have received (and there's a link here). If someone doesn't already have the items listed, you can put up a Wanted advert. That would include your rear seat - but you're lucky that it's rusted up while out of place, it'd be a lot more work if it couldn't be unlocked.

On a 2002 car you should have the cast front suspension arms so rusting through won't be an issue, but check the rubbers on the balljoints for any signs of perishing. On the cast arms the balljoints are not replaceable, so when the rubber goes, it will take not just the balljoint but the entire arm with it, which isn't a nice easy DIY job to replace.

Also if you have no service history, have a good listen to the engine for anything sounding like a rattly chain. Obviously it won't be the timing, but there is a chain with tensioners which drives the oil pump and balancer shaft. Wear due to a historical lack of oil changes / wrong spec oil would be starting to become apparent at around this mileage. The chain is behind the timing belt so if you hear anything you'd need to use your judgement whether to do it now or wait until the next timing belt change (5 years / 60k miles).
Click to expand...
Hi -I have a 1.4 petrol- and I think the timing belt was done in 2009, so no hurry... When I have it done- is there a chain on the petrol to do too- the engine sounds a bit 'clacky', I don't think its bottom end noises! Thanks, and sorry to gatecrash! All the best with your new purchase Riot.
 
3wheeler said:
Hi -I have a 1.4 petrol- and I think the timing belt was done in 2009, so no hurry... When I have it done- is there a chain on the petrol to do too- the engine sounds a bit 'clacky', I don't think its bottom end noises! Thanks, and sorry to gatecrash! All the best with your new purchase Riot.
Click to expand...
This is most likely hydraulic tappet adjusters on the 1.4 petrol; known for being a bit “clattery’. Is it worse when first started and then eases once warm. You could try a hydraulic tappet treatment. If your timing belt was done in 2009 what sort of mileage has racked up since then?
 
Last edited:
birtyA2 said:
This is most likely hydraulic tapped adjusters on the 1.4 petrol; known for being a bit “clattery’. Is it worse when first started and then eases once warm. You could try a hydraulic tappet treatment. If your timing belt was done in 2009 what sort of mileage has racked up since then?
Click to expand...
Maybe a bit of a hurry up would be appropriate ...
Mac.
 
RiotousAssembly said:
3. At 116,000 miles I bought mine cheap with no service history. Already had the cam belt, water pump, alternator belt and oil change done just to be safe. Are there any other common issues at this kind of mileage I should be cognisant of?
Click to expand...
Hi and welcome. With no service history then all the regular service items should be checked/changed. e.g. fuel filter (@depronman does an aluminium bolt to replace the plastic one that often breaks), engine air filter, cabin filter (go for carbon filter, not much more expensive), check the wiper arm (@depronman does refurbished arms) and check the door straps for "grunting" noises (again @depronman does reconditioned ones with brass rollers).

Also check for water in the spoiler (drill some small holes underneath to let it out) and check for water dampness in the lower boot where the battery is. If so, then the air vents behind the bumper need to be resealed.

Hope you have an enjoyable A2 ownership.
 
RiotousAssembly said:
4. I changed the battery in the key fob which the owner said had been dead for a couple of years. Tried to re sync it with the car but having no luck. Timsons says the fob is signalling correctly. Do I need to get it recoded to the car?
Click to expand...
If the keyfob resync posted above doesn't work, a 2002 car may well have had a CCCU with a part number ending in 'Q' when it left the factory, but that generation of unit is a frequent failure these days. Check in the passenger under-floor compartment, might the black unit on the top of the stack been swapped for one ending in 'AF' ? If so, the original fobs for a 'Q' unit won't talk to the newer CCCU. To confirm, also split the fob into its two halves, the button half needs the part number with a suffix of 'D' to talk to an 'AF' CCCU, conversely if the CCCU is still a 'Q', the button half of the fob needs the part number with no suffix.
 
To resync my car I do the following. If the car is locked I unlock it using the key in the door. If the car was already unlocked or now unlocked by the key in the door do the following..

Open the drivers door and put the key in the ignition and turn on to warning lights. Press the unlock button on the remote, turn off the ignition, remove the key and get out the car. Close the drivers door and press the lock button on the remote. This works every time for my car and do this every year when I replace the batteries in my remotes ( just repeat the process with the next key ).
 
Alan_uk said:
Hi and welcome. With no service history then all the regular service items should be checked/changed. e.g. fuel filter (@depronman does an aluminium bolt to replace the plastic one that often breaks), engine air filter, cabin filter (go for carbon filter, not much more expensive), check the wiper arm (@depronman does refurbished arms) and check the door straps for "grunting" noises (again @depronman does reconditioned ones with brass rollers).

Also check for water in the spoiler (drill some small holes underneath to let it out) and check for water dampness in the lower boot where the battery is. If so, then the air vents behind the bumper need to be resealed.

Hope you have an enjoyable A2 ownership.
Click to expand...
Worth noting that @depronman 's fuel filter screw is for the later type cartridge filter housing which has a removable end cap (to swap the filter) where the notoriously fragile plastic drain screw is located. Earlier 1.4tdis (my one is a late 02 reg 1.4tdi) have a sealed filter unit that is disconnected and replaced entirely as far as I am aware (mine was corroded and disintegrating so necessitated replacement).

You need to look underneath the car (ahead of the passenger side rear wheel) to ascertain which type of filter you have - this will guide the replacement needed.
 
Proghound said:
Good morning and welcome aboard :)

For interior bits, you'll most probably find what you're looking for in the Market here, for which you will need to upgrade your account. Details on how to upgrade are in the Welcome email you will have received (and there's a link here). If someone doesn't already have the items listed, you can put up a Wanted advert. That would include your rear seat - but you're lucky that it's rusted up while out of place, it'd be a lot more work if it couldn't be unlocked.

On a 2002 car you should have the cast front suspension arms so rusting through won't be an issue, but check the rubbers on the balljoints for any signs of perishing. On the cast arms the balljoints are not replaceable, so when the rubber goes, it will take not just the balljoint but the entire arm with it, which isn't a nice easy DIY job to replace.

Also if you have no service history, have a good listen to the engine for anything sounding like a rattly chain. Obviously it won't be the timing, but there is a chain with tensioners which drives the oil pump and balancer shaft. Wear due to a historical lack of oil changes / wrong spec oil would be starting to become apparent at around this mileage. The chain is behind the timing belt so if you hear anything you'd need to use your judgement whether to do it now or wait until the next timing belt change (5 years / 60k miles).
Click to expand...
That's all awesome info, thanks very much. I'll be upgrading my account post haste.

Thanks again
 
audifan said:
To resync my car I do the following. If the car is locked I unlock it using the key in the door. If the car was already unlocked or now unlocked by the key in the door do the following..

Open the drivers door and put the key in the ignition and turn on to warning lights. Press the unlock button on the remote, turn off the ignition, remove the key and get out the car. Close the drivers door and press the lock button on the remote. This works every time for my car and do this every year when I replace the batteries in my remotes ( just repeat the process with the next key ).
Click to expand...
Nice one I'll give this a try.
Thanks for your time 😁
 
birtyA2 said:
This is most likely hydraulic tappet adjusters on the 1.4 petrol; known for being a bit “clattery’. Is it worse when first started and then eases once warm. You could try a hydraulic tappet treatment.
Click to expand...
I got the same engine and can hear exactly what you described. Never used the tappet treatment, are there any risks in doing so?
Had the same in my 1986 Audi, and the mechanic said to just live with it as it is not of great concern and sorting it out takes a lot of labour (read: $$$).
Thanks.
 
Alan_uk said:
Hi and welcome. With no service history then all the regular service items should be checked/changed. e.g. fuel filter (@depronman does an aluminium bolt to replace the plastic one that often breaks), engine air filter, cabin filter (go for carbon filter, not much more expensive), check the wiper arm (@depronman does refurbished arms) and check the door straps for "grunting" noises (again @depronman does reconditioned ones with brass rollers).

Also check for water in the spoiler (drill some small holes underneath to let it out) and check for water dampness in the lower boot where the battery is. If so, then the air vents behind the bumper need to be resealed.

Hope you have an enjoyable A2 ownership.
Click to expand...
Cheers mate I'll check those points out.
 
birtyA2 said:
This is most likely hydraulic tappet adjusters on the 1.4 petrol; known for being a bit “clattery’. Is it worse when first started and then eases once warm. You could try a hydraulic tappet treatment. If your timing belt was done in 2009 what sort of mileage has racked up since then?
Click to expand...
Its on 66000 now. So the miles aren't the problem. The Serice history is patchy, so maybe it was done since then, but I need to find out somehow. Even so, it will be done!!
 
birtyA2 said:
This is most likely hydraulic tappet adjusters on the 1.4 petrol; known for being a bit “clattery’. Is it worse when first started and then eases once warm. You could try a hydraulic tappet treatment. If your timing belt was done in 2009 what sort of mileage has racked up since then?
Click to expand...
Its been in a garden for 3 years, topped up with oil (not even sure what sort they have used) and then driven a week later, so I think its just under use. It drove very smoothly.
 
Riba said:
I got the same engine and can hear exactly what you described. Never used the tappet treatment, are there any risks in doing so?
Had the same in my 1986 Audi, and the mechanic said to just live with it as it is not of great concern and sorting it out takes a lot of labour (read: $$$).
Thanks.
Click to expand...
No risks that I am aware of and I have used it myself on an A2 AUA. I used a product from Wynns. I believe they work by dissolving any deposit build up on the hydraulic tappet nozzles that may restrict oil flow. Using good quality and correct specification synthetic oil changed at the appropriate intervals is also a good thing. If it’s really excessive then the only solution will be to change the hydraulic tappers which - will I believe - involve removing the camshafts, so your mechanic was correct it’s quite a job
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top