Newbie - what does this unlabelled rocker switch do please?

Stevieb said:
Two questiIons please.
Firstly what is the ASR switch is ?
And secondly the cover has fallen off the button below the fuel cap release.

Cheers,

Steve B
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ASR is ‘anti skid regulation’ or traction control on non-Audi speak.

The button below the fuel cap release is the deactivation for the interior motion sensors when you turn the alarm on and lock the doors.

I’m assuming I’ve understood your questions correctly.
 
Brilliant thanks.
The red cover has fallen off the button. But the light is still on.
I've noticed that the flashers don't flash when I lock the car . Has something been disturbed please .

Cheers,

Steve B
 
Red??? The button to deactivate the interior motion sensor is black.
Can you take a picture so we know exactly what it is and can advise accordingly.
 
I think flash on lock/unlock is a configurable option in your CCCU. Maybe a previous owner didn't like it and he or someone else with VCDS disabled it. As long as after 30 seconds the red LED in the corner of the driver's window settles down to a short flash (½ second) every two seconds, all is good with the door locks. If you get any other pattern of LED flash after 30 seconds, there is an issue - post up and I'm sure someone will be able to advise.
 
Thanks again,

This is so helpful.
it looks like the switch has jammed with the light on so I take it the internal sensors are deactivated. Everything works as described by you Proghound.
Many many thanks.

Steve B
 
Perhaps the previous owner had fitted that extra switch for the interior sensors. Indicators will not flash on locking if any switch still shows open, that is for any door, the tailgate or the service hatch. I suggest you have a full VCDS scan done on the car. That way we can see any issues and perhaps some you are not aware of yet. BTW the interior sensor switch should be ABOVE the fuel switch, wonder if they have been swapped over wrongly, could also explain the red light on.
 
Just a thought - check the hazards work OK, suspect the flasher relay if they don't.

Also just tested, if the internal sensors are deactivated, the door LED does nothing for most of the first 30 seconds before settling down to the regular pattern. Normally it follows a different pattern during that time.

If the sensors were disabled, the button light will go out when the door is shut, and come back on if it's reopened before locking it. However it should stay out when opening the door after a lock/unlock cycle.

I've got a broken one of those switches in my parts pile, removed from one of my cars - the button just falls out. I can't make anything in the switch body move as if to turn it off. I think there used to be a sprung white plastic part behind the button which makes/breaks the appropriate contacts.

The switch just levers gently out of the B-pillar trim. I wonder if it might be possible to bridge the pins in the connector behind the switch body to persuade the car that the sensors are not disabled. Does anyone know which wires/pins would be involved?.
 
And does the fuel flap release work. Firstly with the drivers door open and secondly with the ignition on and the drivers door shut. If the later I suspect they have swapped the switch positions to fool the fuel flap into opening when there is perhaps a drivers door open microswitch issue. When you open the drivers door normally both switches background illumination comes on.
 
Again really appreciate your help.
The fuel flap switch works fine and has a spring action whereas the alarm switch is jammed and can't be pressed in . The light is lit however.
I'll check that the tailgate is locked but seem to remember the lights flashed upon locking with the fob before I noticed the button black surround on the floor of the car. I managed to press it back into the aperture but the button is solid with the light on.

Cheers,

Steve B
 
Brilliant advice thank you all.
The bonnet inspection flap was not closed properly so I've sorted that and the lights flash when I lock the car. I'm satisfied with that result thank you so I'll leave it now thanks.

Cheers,

Steve B
 
It is possible to program the CCU so that when you lock the car it will bleep if all the doors are locked, windows up, fuel flap closed, service flap closed etc. I find it nice to have the reassurance. Takes just a few seconds to program the CCU with the right equipments and often someone in the club will do it for free at a club meet.
 
Geecee said:
He it is. Cosmetically OK but with a sloppy drive train as you might expect from an 18 year old, 170k car. Doesn't smoke, no pops or wheezes, just a bit loosey goosey. Think it probably got shunted in the rear at some point as the paintwork looks and feels rough on the bumper and lower hatch sill. Inside it is bog standard apart from these crazy leather seats. Despite me telling him that it would be impossible, he managed to stall it today.

According to the receipts it had early engine problems (misfitted timing belt?), angle sensor? But now runs really very nicely. Needs a service which looks easy and cheap to do (any preferred online recommendation for a service kit?). One of the cup holders was cracked, replacement on its way. The right hand cup holder is too close to the wheel isn't it? I need a spare wheel....I will ask the chap Steve (?), the breaker guy for one or look for one locally.

Top prize offered for the best registration plate anagram you can come up with.

Cost me £1100 for a bit of history, German design excellence, and a good story for my son to share in the future.

View attachment 63775
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Good luck to him. I passed my test last August and inherited my Mum's A2 that she's had since 2004. Brilliant little car, even though it is older than me
 
Antiguakidd said:
Good luck to him. I passed my test last August and inherited my Mum's A2 that she's had since 2004. Brilliant little car, even though it is older than me
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Thank you. He is doing really well so far (we are a week in) and we did our first miles out on public roads yesterday!
 
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