No boost on turbo

H

Herb06

New Member
hi can any one help me my a2 will not rev out more then 3000 revs & not go over 80 mph no turbo working need someone to help me or fix it for me please just don’t no what to do ??
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Iv add turbo changed egr value replace when you turn the car off you can hear the n75 trying to suck air in All so change the n75 off a Audi a2 that is running fine iv changed all the sensors map check the boost pipes there fine (only thing iv not done is change the small pipes that are coming off the N75 ?? )
Can any one help
 
The boost pipes seems to be sucking in instead of boosting the pipes out ??
All this started after having the car service/ belt & water pump done
 
Check the air pipe from the turbo as it enters the intercooler. There is a bracket locating it onto the sump. Quite common for garages to not disconnect this clamp when they lower the engine to access the cambelt. This either breaks the bracket or loosens the pipe causing an air ( boost ) leak. If the bracket is damaged this then puts stress onto the lower end cap of the intercooler which then splits and blows out the seal..
 
audifan said:
Check the air pipe from the turbo as it enters the intercooler. There is a bracket locating it onto the sump. Quite common for garages to not disconnect this clamp when they lower the engine to access the cambelt. This either breaks the bracket or loosens the pipe causing an air ( boost ) leak. If the bracket is damaged this then puts stress onto the lower end cap of the intercooler which then splits and blows out the seal..
Click to expand...
I will check that thank you for you help kind regards wayne
 
It seems to be on that pip. but can you zoom in and look under the arrow iv draw on. Should there be a vacum pip connected to it just can’t work out why is it a breather Hole ??
 
Red herring. That connection is not used in the A2. The spigot on the intercooler is solid and not bored out.....

Check the main pipe from the turbo to the lower intercooler for damage or looseness in the fittings. After that carefully check the small vacuum hoses ( they are actually pressure hoses ) all the way from the 2 connections on the turbo all the way up to the N75 valve, especially the right angle connector on the rear of the N75. These rubber parts tend to perish and then become porous and leak away the control pressure needed to control the turbo. Also check the MAP sensor on the top of the intercooler is intact and the cap that has the part number on it is not cracked or missing.

The N239 is the anti shudder valve and only controls engine shut off and not the turbo.
 
I had the same problem on my atl and it was vanes stuck on the turbo, only relevant if you have an atl engine guess.
When I changed the turbo I had all the vacuum pipes replaced with samco silicon for £20, worth it for peace of mind and not having to trace a small leak in the ancient originals. Does it cut out under heavy load or at that rev range regardless of how you get to 3000 rpm? Could be boost pressure mis- signal throwing all the calculations on the ecu giving limp. Does a restart fix the turbo back to normal?
 
CrispyEdd said:
I had the same problem on my atl and it was vanes stuck on the turbo, only relevant if you have an atl engine guess.
When I changed the turbo I had all the vacuum pipes replaced with samco silicon for £20, worth it for peace of mind and not having to trace a small leak in the ancient originals. Does it cut out under heavy load or at that rev range regardless of how you get to 3000 rpm? Could be boost pressure mis- signal throwing all the calculations on the ecu giving limp. Does a restart fix the turbo back to normal?
Click to expand...
It gets to 3000 rpm ok but after that you have to change gear my clocks on the a2 only go up to 5/6 grand it sounds like the engine going to blow up after 3 grand
Iv add new turbo fitted new egr valve
The little a2 was very nippy throw the gears now it’s like you have to thrash the car to get anywhere
In normal driving it’s feels like iv got to be a gear down all the time when I should be in 4th I need to be in 3rd for the power someone else’s said it was the bcm so I just don’t no what to do think am going to change all the small pipes and check boost pipes then change the bcm
It’s burning my head out now
image.jpg
 
Sorry I can't help on the boost issue but I can tell you that changing the item pictured isn't going to get you very far. That's the CCCU for the door locks, windows, alarm, rear PDC etc.
 
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