(No more) Soot and dirty oil building up around glowe plug

The vacuum is just about everything to the servo. This is what multiplies your pedal force into the brake master cylinder. Without vacuum your braking is very much reduced in efficiency. Still works in an emergency but you have to apply a LOT of pedal pressure.
 
The vacuum is just about everything to the servo. This is what multiplies your pedal force into the brake master cylinder. Without vacuum your braking is very much reduced in efficiency. Still works in an emergency but you have to apply a LOT of pedal pressure.
Allright, this is basic for most people probably..
Nice of you to have the patience.
But the servo for the steering is linked with the brake master and this is dependent on vacuum from the tandem pump?
Whitout the servo force from the vacuum pump, the brakes and steering wheel would be "dead" like when the ignition is off. My idea was that it was run with electricity..since it comes alive with the key ignition on.
 
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Power steering on the A2 is by self contained electric pump and reservoir not vacuum operated. The brakes are vacuum assisted. Some A2 especially the diesels with the BHC and ATL engines also have a vacuum reservoir to ensure there is more vacuum available. Engine starts and tandem produces vacuum, power steering is energised and pump electrically driven depending on various factors. So yes it all comes alive when the ignition switch is turned on.
 
Makes sense now, I can feel a little " pump" in the brakes before and after the engine lights on/off.
By the way, there is a little sound and movement( a shring sound) in the accelerator pedal about 40 meters of driving, do you think this is a part of the vag "dieselgate"?
 
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Maybe, what I describe was the first step for VAG to meet with emission standards. First they did this mecanically in the 3l cars with wheel speeds, and later with cpu.
Anyway this is the only 'sound' that has always been there, that I never could understand and it has been constant.
 
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May just be a system switching mode from low speed / parking to normal driving. Electric power steering does consume a lot of power.
 
May just be a system switching mode from low speed / parking to normal driving. Electric power steering does consume a lot of power.
Well, yes.Still there is a mechanical spring sound, and a little movment in the accelerator pedal, at a certain speed.No change in rpms or speed from time to time.I think at about 12 mph.
 
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ABS self-test maybe? My Volvo does that at about 12mph. The previous one was very audible although this one I barely notice it. It just does it the once at the start of every journey.
 
Not the doors, or a selftest for the hijackmode at 15 kmt.
Abs self test sounds more likely.
No one noticed this strange " pliers going off a spring" sound before, and a slight movement in the accelator pedal at low rpms.Rolling out of the neighbourhood?
 
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Have you had a look at the accelerator pedal or the other pedals to see if it is a spring that is resetting or something under the pedals like a floor mat?
 
After cleaning and then more than1000 miles.New dirt is building up.
Looks like the tandem pump has to be replaced..
Does anybody know if the right torque settings for the Bosch pump is mentioned somewhere in this forum, and do I need to replace bolts with new ones?
 

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After cleaning and then more than 1000 miles.New dirt is building up.
Looks like the tandem pump has to be replaced..
Does anybody know if the right torque settings for the Bosch pump is mentioned somewhere in this forum, and do I need to replace bolts with new ones?
If your LUK pump is fitted with hex head bolts, you will find that you can't use them with a Bosch pump. You will need the equivalent Allen screws or similar.

Top two screws are 20Nm, bottom two 10Nm.

RAB
 
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If your LUK pump is fitted with hex head bolts, you will find that you can't use them with a Bosch pump. You will need the equivalent Allen screws or similar.

Top two screws are 20Nm, bottom two 10Nm.

RAB
Thanks for the Nm settings.
Looks like my Luk is set up with 5mm and 6 mm Allen screws.If I remember correctly, the AMF engines have the Bosch pump, so I guess I could order new Hex bolts for the AMF pump, as well as the gaskets?
 
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The reason that hex head screws can't be used with a Bosch pump is that the heads are located in a recess, whereas on the LUK pump it's just a flat surface.

RAB
 
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