o/s shocker top bolts

Howey

Member
Howdy peeps!

Cards on the table, i struggled my rocks off getting access to the o/s shocker top bolts, that bluming reservouir and bracket!! Should i have removed the scuttle panel?
 
Nope, no point in removing he scuttle panel - a lot of patience is required, along with some small tools.
I use a 3/8th drive fine tooth ratchet that's only 3" long, a slimline 1/4" drive torque wrench and also a 1/4" drive flex ratchet.
Shallow sockets also help.
Once you get a half-turn on each of the 3 top bolts, support the leg from underneath and you'll be able to move the bolts a bit easier.

Undoing the fluid reservoir bracket gives a little more room, but not much.

Cheers
Jeff
 

Howey

Member
So its just how my dad sums up a lot of jobs " A long way in a long time"?

I had to remove the bracket and fluid pot to stand any chance!

Only realised afterwards the black dome should be fitted to top of shocker then pushed up into its recess hole and it then supports itself whilst bolts are started.

Cant believe how long shocks, inner cv boots, ball joint rubbers (what a faff but hopefully worthwhile) front brakes, took me!
 

Howey

Member
If your doing the shocks a would say with certainty the pinch bolts will be fubared!
Have found sachs fit better in the knuckle apposed to TRW but the abs wiring holder fitted perfect on the trw but not on the sachs.
Front flexis are likely to be needed if its done some miles!
 
.......
Cant believe how long shocks, inner cv boots, ball joint rubbers (what a faff but hopefully worthwhile) front brakes, took me!
The nice thing to hang on to is that, assuming you've used quality parts, your suspension will be good now for many miles/years to come.
Happy days....:)

Cheers
Jeff
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
I’ve done a lot of these and have the appropriate ratchet spanner’s now so can do the drivers side in about 3 hours (top mount change) and the passenger side in about 1.5 hours
The first time was considerable longer but I didn’t have the right tools for the job

Very worth wile when it’s all done though

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Howey

Member
Yeah only driven home but i was that tired i couldnt even tell you what day it was!

Also did inner cv boots, so pleased the drive shafts came out, was dreading that battle as no way was i doing them in situ!

GKN kits were good with new bolts, clip and end cap but the rubber "O" rings were way too big!!

Then did air filter and snapped the rear bolt, a little file'in to make a channel for a cable tie and disaster was avoided!

Next bit of good fortune was the rear shoes and cylinders look quite new (a have bought shoes, fitting kit and cylinders but they will come in one day lol)
 

LK79

Member
Had a go at this today and on the first bolt i got it started then after a bit i realised the nut was turning below, had to cut away as much rubber underneath as i could then i managed to get my vice grips locked on the nut and stuck a bit of 3 x 2 cls in behind to let it bring up against and after a painstaking hand scuffing session i got the first bolt out.

Took me three hours on the first bolt :)
 

Howey

Member
How did you get on with access to the top mount bolts, i had to move the brake fluid reservoir and bracket out the way which was a PITA!
 

LK79

Member
How did you get on with access to the top mount bolts, i had to move the brake fluid reservoir and bracket out the way which was a PITA!
Bit off a struggle but i managed to get the first one out without taking anything else off and the second one is started.
 

LK79

Member
Ended up moving the brake fluid tank, got the last bolt started then realised it was turning below so cut away the rubber then initially tried it with just the vice grips on but completely solid, so i cut a bit off the nut with the angle grinder and hey presto got the last bolt out and shock removed.
 

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