Please help!

looks good @oko , the metal gasket can still warp in service. When you fit a new quality one there is far less of a chance of a leak as all surfaces are flat. Just a shame Audi did not fit a longer neck originally. Agree Bosch pump far superior to LUK and the larger body does improve vacuum. What is behind the rectangular cover on the body? Wondering if the cover could be modified or even removed, just not sure how filled the space is behind it.
 
audifan said:
looks good @oko , the metal gasket can still warp in service. When you fit a new quality one there is far less of a chance of a leak as all surfaces are flat. Just a shame Audi did not fit a longer neck originally. Agree Bosch pump far superior to LUK and the larger body does improve vacuum. What is behind the rectangular cover on the body? Wondering if the cover could be modified or even removed, just not sure how filled the space is behind it.
Click to expand...
The rectangular cover is for the motor and gearing for the ASV.I opened it slightly to see if there was a possibility of modification,but it's too compact to trim anything
 
My plan worked! :) .I sourced the connector pipe from eBay.It was still bolted to an egr,to my surprise it actually worked.Not a bad start for £10 Inc postage.The egr swap was a massive pain due to access,plus the egr cooler didn't help either.I had to drill the flange on the old egr (bottom bolt) to remove.Then cut the head off the bolt as it's too long to remove past the exhaust flange.Fitting was sort of straight forward with the exception of the bottom bolt being a shallow torx bolt to clear exhaust flange.The rest was easy,even filing the charge pipe and putting in two self tappers in place of the clip.Even managed to clear EML now egr is operational.When it fails I will delete in from ECU as I think one egr swap is enough for me
Hope this helps other ATL owners
 
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Very happy for you, and a nice looking job. As you killed two problems at the same time and now have the better Bosch pump its a win, win, win. Even the rubber inlet hose does not appear to be twisted much out of shape.

Well done. You may start a trend for the 90 / Bosch pump.
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Can I ask a silly question? I'm in a similar position as you were at the start of the process, albeit with an AMF engine, and have ordered the Bosch pump and gasket. I see the AMF is specified both with Bosch and LUK pumps - do both fit without fouling the pipework behind that you had trouble with , or is it a subset of AMFs that use Bosch and another subset that use LUK?
 
No not a silly question, better to know in advance. The induction pipe work is different on the AMF and does not cause any problem with either LUK or Bosch pumps. No modification is needed. All AMF engines are suitable for either LUK or Bosch pumps as there is no flap motor unit between the rubber pipe and EGR valve.
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You can see the induction pipe change from metal to rubber just to the right of the pump, as the rubber disappears below the fresh air intake it connects directly to the egr.
 
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Good to hear no modification needed for Amf engine. I too am in same position as the amount of oil around that area of my engine, is leading me to believe my vacuum pump is leaking. I also have a leaking rocker cover, so this will be dealt with first. Then I'll source a bosch vac pump and fit that along with new gaskets and getting my engine degreased etc.
Thanks Steve
 
Hi all.
For future reference can someone post up the correct part number for the bosch vacuum pump.
Thanks Steve
 
@stevec If indeed the tandem pump is leaking DIESEL then it will VERY quickly destroy all the rubber hoses around it, this is expensive. Not only that the diesel will also attack the insulation on all the electrics. So PLEASE if the pump is leaking change it sooner rather than later. Are you sure it is a leaking rocker cover not the pump.
 
Yep leaking rocker cover, oil around top front of engine. But i also have oil below tandem pump on gearbox bell housing? Car gonna be off road for next week while i explore, clean engine and change rocker cover and gasket etc.
 
Ordered my Bosch one from cartech-one following the link posted here on another recent thread - £165 quid including postage. Got the VAG oem gasket off Ebay for 9.95 delivered. You can get the above pump+gasket combination from Cartech one for around 190 quid including postage if you don't want to shop around for the gasket.

BOSCH Fuel pump, Vacuum pump

BOSCH Fuel pump, Vacuum pump Products with top quality and for a favourable price in our shop. Fast shipping and more than 800,000 products.
www.cartech-one.co.uk www.cartech-one.co.uk
Manufacturer number: F009D02799
ATP Article no.: 30430559
 
Just protect everything from the diesel using plastic bags and be careful not to spill any as it will eat rubber VERY quickly. Make sure everything is spotlessly clean before you reassemble and torque the attachment bolts for the pump correctly do not drag it down on one bolt, do all finger tight first, then just nipped before final torque to prevent the gasket warping. Charge the battery fully as it takes ages for the pump to drag the fuel from the tank - remember there is no electric fuel pump on the diesel. Turn engine over for about 5 seconds, let it rest for 20 then repeat until the engine fires into life. Just a pity there is no manual lift pump to take the load off the starter.
 
Another daft question to the experts. It is plain to see that diesel will have been draining onto the rubber pipes down and around the right hand end of the engine. Is there anything like GummiPflege that is recommended to perk up the OSS seals and so on that could be used to recondition the pipes that are bound to have had diesel on them or is this going to be a bit Russian roulette? I'm even beginning to wonder if diesel spillage from the tandem pump down the back of the engine could contribute to the oil level sensor wiring fault that is perhaps triggering my project Cosmo's steering pump CANBUS issue (drawing a number of different bits of information together).
 
I think once diesel as attacked the rubber is gone
There is nothing that will repair the damaged already done


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Unfortunately the diesel eating into the rubber is irreversable, the rubber softens and swells, and if left can result in ruptured water pipes.The OSS is only the seals being permanently compressed and the cleaner clearing the "memory". The electrics suffer from insulation break down and turn brittle. So yes could well be diesel that caused the oil level sensor wiring fault. It can get expensive but the only cure is a new pump ( I do not recommend resealing ) and all damaged hoses replacing. I learnt the hard way, resealed the pump and replaced the hoses only for the pump to leak again very shortly afterwards. I also had to replace the wiring on the water temperature sensor and also the fuel temp sensor.
 
.. So yes could well be diesel that caused the oil level sensor wiring fault. It can get expensive but the only cure is a new pump ( I do not recommend resealing ) and all damaged hoses replacing.

New Bosch pump and gasket are already ordered - thanks again for confirming the pipework arrangements for the AMF earlier, that was a big relief after the ATL question. A good look will be had at the coolant pipework with lighting and a suitable camera to determine whether what I fear has happened has happened.

Thank you again, both original poster and everyone else subsequently (@audifan).
 
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