Plymouth. I'm looking for a garagist / mechanic / equipped workshop or ... other solution.

Hesketh

Member
Hi, Hesketh here. Lets try again? Au-Too – That's how we've ended up referring to our new car. Imagine a vague Germanic accent. I spent half my life in Switzerland and my partner is Swiss. Sounds like Auto (as in auto-route) or 'Ow-doo as in northern twang.
I got a new radio but have to get the codes for it. I see some ebay people selling them. Does that work? Any recomendations?
I have some work for the right person.
I want to replace Cam-belt + water pump + Clutch (the bite is right at the top of the pedals action and it slips a little on steep hill starts. Reading around here there's no adjustment,is that right?). Is there anything else I should add to the list, other jobs that'd be good to have done at the same time? I do most wrenching myself but I don't have a covered workshop and am in too much of a hurry to get the work done and have a reliable trustworthy auto.
So – any recommendations? anyone up to it? I'd rather not have to go too far. I think my usual grease-monkey is good and more than up to it but he's not cheap and not an Audi A2 specialist. So before I get it booked in (which wont be til the new year, of course) I thought I do a shout out. I do have another car (a Renault 5 Prima 1.4 Auto 1989, that will be for sale as soon as Au-Too is ready, if anyone is interested?).

Plans for the car:
15" wheels and snow-chain compatible sized tyres (for family visits in the Alps). The car has 17" at the mo' is anyone interested in a straight swap? –
Paint the roof white to keep it cooler on those hot summer days. ( I'm thinking of using Plasti-dip peel of paint, does anyone have any experience of it?).
reflective tint on the rear windows (give the dog some privacy when he has to hang-out in the car whilst we shop or whatever. I've found gold to be the most discreet and effective) Is there a blind or curtain thingy available for the rear window?
I'd like to get rid of a lot of the gizmo's. I'd rather have wind up (or 2cv style, better still.) front windows. a manual petrol cap flap and so on. The A2 isn't too bad but the systems seem deeply integrated... we'll see. My desire is to "future proof" the car and stuff like that wears out, gets broken and is a dog to fix.

Any recommendations for workshop books? and recommendations for an affordable vagcom / scart reading apparatus?
Thanks.

and
Seasons Greetings to y'all.
 
I had a code from eBay and it worked fine.
Only A2 specialist I know of are up north of you.
Womautomotive stoke
Stealth Warwickshire
 
Unless you find someone who comes recommended, it's probably worth speaking to your local independent VAG specialist, and asking them to quote for the work. There's a good chance they'll be familiar with the A2, and I doubt that either cambelt and water pump or clutch replacement would be other than straightforward for them.

Phil Davies:
 
Any recommendations for workshop books? and recommendations for an affordable vagcom / scart reading apparatus?

The Audi A2 workshop manual can be found online here:

Essentially the same content can be purchased as a cheap download which comes as a collection of .pdf files, and I find those easier to navigate:

Vagcom, now known as VCDS is simple, VCDS-Lite is a free download and will run on Windows with any suitable interconnect:

You'll need an appropriate cable such as this:
 
Most common issues have a how to here:

Most A2’s are now around 15 yrs old, the common faults are.
Petrol cap release button, normally drivers door lock related.
Thermostat and water temp sender failure*
Original battery at end of life.
Fuel filters and gearbox oils being neglected.
Side light bulbs melting light guides.
Rear interior light not working
Broken springs and bump stops
Wiper arm failing and scratching window
Button wear
Rear seats stuck.
That should keep you busy for a while.

*may as well change those while your doing the water pump.
 
As an FYI based on @Robthebank 's list above, from a car on just over 110000mi supplied by a dealer for £1750 in autumn 2018 I had to do the following. I don't think my list of work for a car of that age outwith the A2oc membership is that unusual, the probable £1000 dealer markup over what you paid being the bit that I didn't comprehend at the time of purchase (that was about the price for a half-decent non-FSI A2 at the time, there were the usual motley bag of cars for £400-£900 on Autotrader at the time that I decided to avoid at that point). I was happy with the price I paid, and am still happy with it, although I know that it was probably a bit over the odds in retrospect. I spent probably another 12-1500 quid on parts and labour costs, and have spent at least the same on both other A2s that I have (one purchased for £346 through Gumtree and the other for £1 through here) - now they're pretty well all at the same level of renovation having had the same suspension and tyres replacements & various engine bits refreshed (in the case of the 1.4i).

Petrol cap release button, normally drivers door lock related. - In my case the spring had jumped out.

Thermostat and water temp sender failure* - both were knackered. Second proper piece of DIY I did.

Original battery at end of life. - battery was original and knackered

Fuel filters and gearbox oils being neglected. - it had had a service, along with belts at 110,000, so the normal fluids and most filters had been done at least. Probably needs a gearbox oil change, and another service is now due.

Side light bulbs melting light guides. - these were discoloured owing to over-powerful incandescent bulbs being put in at some point. Osram W5W LEDs replaced these, infinitely better.

Rear interior light not working - needed a bead of new solder following the guide in here. First piece of DIY I did.

Broken springs and bump stops - bump stops all perished to hell. As top strut bearings were both noisy I got the front suspension rebuilt the following spring as part of the MOT preparation.

Wiper arm failing and scratching window - bought a new Bosch wiper blade that raised the arm enough to stop this happening

Button wear - various buttons are still worn

Rear seats stuck - the only thing on Rob's list that I didn't have a problem with on this car (but did on the most recent arrival, fixed it in an afternoon after reading suggestions here).

To these I would add - discs / pads and drums - you'll be lucky if they have been replaced or don't need calibrating in the case of the latter, and if they haven't been done, look at a set of Bilstein B4s all round to make the car ride as it should.

Upgrades. One I wouldn't be without are the heated mirrors, and the colour DIS has also been nice to have.

I note your comments regarding other vehicles in the household - I also have a 2CV in the garage that I cut my teeth on with regard to maintenance & DIY, and for whatever reason, I do think that the A2 encourages similar spannering in a way that for whatever reason a Polo of similar age simply wouldn't.

Best of luck with your car!
 
@Hesketh Dont Panic!
The lists above are of the “once in a lifetime” things these cars need, ie most 15yr old A2’s will have these issue, once they are sorted you will be good until 2035 or whenever they are banned in the zero emissions revolution.
Most things on our list will just be £20-50 a couple of hours on a Saturday morning and some skin off your knuckles.
I just spent £120 and that got me new disc’s, pads, shoes and drums, ready for the next MOT, parts are relatively cheap for these.
 
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When you get the clutch done it’s worth getting the arm and pivot bearing done as well. Apparently the little top on the pivot can wear through the lever arm and it’s only a few quid extra while they are already doing the clutch.


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When you get the clutch done it’s worth getting the arm and pivot bearing done as well. Apparently the little top on the pivot can wear through the lever arm and it’s only a few quid extra while they are already doing the clutch.


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The pivot bolt has a mushroom head with anti friction coating once this wear away it wears through the cross arm quite quickly
This causes the release bearing to fail as it is not being pushed squarely into the clutch
cover plate

The pivot bolt is about £6
The cross arm about £12 but you also need a spring clip which retains the cross arm to the pivot bolt and it does not come with the cross arm. The clip is about 35p
All three are Audi main dealer only. Preston Audi got them in 2 days. I think they are common parts to other vag cars from around 2000 to 2007

Also you want an LUK clutch kit or a SACHE but they are rather dear. Both are Audi original fitment

Cheers. Paul


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Thank you all. I like the list(s) and appreciate the guidance. nothing too dreadful there but yeah ... I know... new to me car blues. Here we go again but no rust this time :)
Just an idea. Does anyone have a good condition low mileage engine (1.4petrol) for sale? and / or what sort of price would I be looking at for such a thing? That might be a better option at the end of the day seeing as my new to me AuToo has 166K. Thoughts?

And. Here is a photo of one of my 2cvs (I don't have it any more but I know the person that does and it's still a "daily driver") Apparently the original idea was to make the 2cv out of Alu' for weight saving. I can see a lot of similarities between the A2 and the 2cv, not only that they both have a 2 in their name.
Happy Christmas.
Happy 2cv Christmas.jpg
 
Does anyone have a good condition low mileage engine (1.4petrol) for sale? and / or what sort of price would I be looking at for such a thing? That might be a better option at the end of the day seeing as my new to me AuToo has 166K. Thoughts?

If this member's 1.4 petrol is anything to go by, you've got a way to go yet:

Buying a lower mileage engine doesn't mean you necessarily have a better engine; far more important is the ongoing maintenance. Regular oil changes and best quality oil is key, and don't be tempted by the 20,000 miles long life service option - although longlife oil is definitely preferred. And keep on top of the cambelt and water pump, which you are alreay well aware of.

Getting a good stainless exhaust built means that the engine is less stressed going forward - read my experience here:
 
If this member's 1.4 petrol is anything to go by, you've got a way to go yet
Good reply. I think so too. I've nursed and coaxed much worse than this along for miles yet. I'm just studying the options and thinking about how to get the most life out of the car. Some very good advice on this thread. I like the stainless exhaust, when the time comes it's the only way to go I think. I still haven't manage to get the new radio in. It's a triky time of the year to work on the car, people think I'm anti social. :cool:
 
Hi Hesketh! I am based in Plymouth and looking for a similar thing. I like working on my cars but I live on a hill, with no off street parking and no cover so a lot of jobs aren't really practical to undertake. I have what I think are sticky turbo vanes at the moment and would love to do something about that but can't where it is. Actually, I have only had the A2 about a month and already had to replace the battery and starter motor, polish up the headlights, fix the wiper (although the damage is well and truly done) and I have a small laundry list of other jobs that need sorting! If you find anywhere covered with a lift, please let me know! I would also recommend SLC garage out at Plympton. They have been working on my cars for 12 years or so now (BMW/Audi/Ford) and always do me a good deal and the work is second to none!
 
A little further afield, but I've just taken mine to Seymour Horwell in Newton Abbot (around the corner from the racecourse). I live in Paignton, but I wanted to take it to an Audi Independent specialist and they gave good communication and the choice of getting the part - a wiper motor - from Audi or a motor factor, which I appreciated.

I'm from Plymouth, but I've only owned Audis since I moved here last spring. Before that I always used Station View next to the train station.
 
I have a set of 14 inch steel wheels with michelin alpin4 winter tyres on. These fit fine and were originally on a skoda fabia. The tyres are 2012 with a lot of tread on. I am happy to swop them or even sell them to you.
Your car does sound like a money pit. I would just sell it on and get a better one. I have a tdi which I have managed to keep on the road while doing the repairs. Generally, that is my rule of thumb, which is that significant amounts of time off the road are not worth it.
 
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